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NMF -- Maskable Non-Alclad Alternatives?

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  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Land of Lakes
NMF -- Maskable Non-Alclad Alternatives?
Posted by cbaltrin on Friday, January 8, 2021 5:28 AM

Are there any?  Still looking for a  alternative to Alclad.... not that there is anything wrong with alclad... Just looking for a reasonable fine grain finish without much fuss, for fun projects for kids that can stand up to some handling/abuse.  Something similar to Floquil Old Silver.  

I have asked this question before in one form or another, but things change, new paints are released and new people see the post Wink

On the Bench:

  • Italeri F-100D 1/72
  • Monogram 1/72 F-4J
  • Revel 1/72 HH-3 Jolly Green Giant
  • Monogram P-47D
  • Monogram F-14A
  • Monogram P-51D
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Towson MD
Posted by gregbale on Friday, January 8, 2021 7:54 AM

I've had pretty good luck with the AK Xtreme finishes. They need to be masked carefully -- as 'gently' as possible -- but I've had good results.

Parafilm seems to be about the least-troublesome mask for pulling up the finish...though getting it to stick on shiny surfaces can be a challenge. The key is to warm it in your hands first.

Cheers

BTW...here's an example of a recent AK project, using mainly their 'Duraluminum' on the fuselage:

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/186264.aspx

Greg

 George Lewis:

"Every time you correct me on my grammar I love you a little fewer."
  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Friday, January 8, 2021 8:57 AM

Hi;

      What I have discovered is this. NMF in paint is not the ideal maskable surface. I have not had that much luck with any of the paint brands discussed and Masking NMF. Now when I do Bare Metal Foil. then I get it done beautifully. What I do is this When finished with the foiling I start handling the model with White Cotton Museum Gloves.

 I then take De-Natured Alcohol and put some on a clean soft remnant of an old " T " shirt.( No dust fuzz that way) I let it almost dry then gently rub it all over the model. This removes my oils from handling it and Most importantly, removes the microscopic traces of release oil from the machinery used to make the foil! The Decals should be installed at this time too. They will stick better!

     I then use Draftsmans tape, well burnished at the edges to mask the foil finish. I spray at low pressure and remove the Tape as soon as the painting is over. This lets the paint at the edges settle down instead of making an edge. Believe it or not, You can also use Scotch Magic Mending tape for this. You must first run the tape through your fingers to lessen the stick. It does work , but you have to concentrate on what you are doing!

  Yes! The BMF is labor intensive. But what I like is when you are done, just before you say finished. You gently buff the model, again with a fuzz free cloth, I have use cloths for cleaning Eye-Glasses. Remember, I said gently,You now have decals on there! Then Clear - Coat it in Gloss or Semi-Gloss, let dry in a dust free environment for at least two full days and Vio'la, A beautiful NMF model!

       There are instances where I do not overcoat the model with clear. As in Model rail Passenger cars of the Santa Fe and Amtrak older cars. Why? Well, I noticed that when I leave them coating free they buff up regularly to like new brightness. You cannot do that with an overcoat of paint. Paint, No matter whose it is, WILL, yellow over time. It's the Nature of the beast.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Virginia
Posted by Wingman_kz on Friday, January 8, 2021 12:21 PM

I'll second what gregbale said about the AK Xtreme Metal paints. I haven't done a lot of masking over it but what I did, didn't lift. I used Tamiya tape. It's very easy to spray too. You don't have to be as careful about it as Alclad. Do give it time to gas out and dry/cure before masking though. I guess I got in a hurry and masked too soon on part of my project. The tape was REALLY stuck. Lol  I commented on it in a thread here and the response was I probably masked too soon. I agree. BUT, that paint didn't lift at all. No color on the tape either. It's pretty tough Embarrassed

            

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Friday, January 8, 2021 1:34 PM

I gave up on painted BMF finishes years ago. Now I only use Bare Metal Foil. I have finished about a dozen planes in BMF.

 

IMHO, it is not possible to use tape to mask BMF. Regarding the B-24 above, I painted the antiglare area and the deicing boots prior to applying the BMF. 

All the painted surfaces on the 1/48 B-58 were painted prior to BMF.

 

Same thing with the MIG, I painted the tail befor applying the BMF. Worked great.

Like Tanker-Builder said, " The BMF is labor intensive".   Go here to see how I apply BMF: http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/13/t/179536.aspx

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2020
  • From: North East of England
Posted by Hutch6390 on Sunday, January 10, 2021 4:44 PM

I'm mostly an acrylics user, no experience of spraying either lacquers or enamels (I like the non-smelly stuff).  I'd planned on building a 1/48 P51 in NMF last year (using Humbrol spray cans), as one of the colour/marking schemes was for an aircraft stationed near where I live, during the war.  Masking tape put paid to that, and the P51 is now a camouflaged RAAF machine, based in Italy - at least it'll have better weather! 

I'm currently building a 1/72 Hawker Demon, and plan to use Vallejo Model Air metallics for it - I've heard that these can withstand masking tape when fully cured, after which I'd think it will still need a couple of coats of varnish.

I'm nearly at the priming stage, then I intend to use the Aluminium first, followed by Chrome for the forward fuselage.  So - prime, gently polish with 3200 grit, airbrush the VMA Aluminium, at least 3 or 4 days curing, then mask with tape (made less tacky by sticking it to a clean cutting board first) & apply the Chrome.

Then - drum roll, please - remove the tape & see what happens.

I'll let you know how I get on, but if you're looking at things to be played with by small hands, I'd recommend finding a tough varnish.

Vell, Zaphod's just zis guy, you know?

 

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Sunday, January 10, 2021 5:11 PM

Hello!

I've been looking for a good bright silver for a long time, but some time ago I've foung Gunze Super Metalics - the chrome silver, to be exact. The finish is really tough and you can use tamiya tape on it with no problems at all.

I've painted my F-84G using it as the base. Then masked and sprayed the highlights with Alclad 2. Here's how it came out:

Hobby Boss 1:72 F-84G Thunderjet by Pawel

Good luck with your painting and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Sunday, January 10, 2021 5:57 PM

Pawel

Hello!

I've been looking for a good bright silver for a long time, but some time ago I've foung Gunze Super Metalics - the chrome silver, to be exact. The finish is really tough and you can use tamiya tape on it with no problems at all.

I've painted my F-84G using it as the base. Then masked and sprayed the highlights with Alclad 2. Here's how it came out:

Hobby Boss 1:72 F-84G Thunderjet by Pawel

Good luck with your painting and have a nice day

Paweł

 

That's a very good looking aircraft. I like the different shades of silver.

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