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What am I doing wrong???

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  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Tuesday, January 19, 2021 4:36 PM

The mini vortex mixer looks interesting. I added one to my wishlist for the start of the modeling season. Geeked

Thanks. Yes

  • Member since
    December 2020
  • From: Kansas
Posted by DM1975 on Tuesday, January 19, 2021 1:34 PM

Thank you for taking the time to write all of that out. I'll look into a vortex mixer and the website you mentioned. 

JNP
  • Member since
    January 2018
  • From: Bloomfield Hills, Michigan
Posted by JNP on Tuesday, January 19, 2021 10:56 AM

1. I assume you are using Acrylic Paints. I use Vallejo Acrylics exclusively.

2. I cannot emphasize the importance of purchasing a good airbrush. You own a Iwata Eclipse HP CSair brush which I also own. I really like that airbrush and is reliable, well engineered & easy to clean; the needle size is fixed a 0.35 using a psi setting of roughly 14-18 psi.however, my main go to airbrush is a Harder and Steinbeck Infinity; 90% of the time I use a 0.2 nozzle @ 14-18 psi.

3. Make sure before you use paint, it is well mixed. In this regard check out a neat mixer called a "Mini Vortexer" on Amazon.com. Great tool for optimal paint mixing. Before dispensing paint in cup or beaker that the paint bottle open margin is free of any dry paint; these small clots of paint will clog and airbrush. I also very rarely add paint to the airbrush cup without first diluting with thinner in a beaker.

4. I always thin Model air paint 30% thinner to 70% paint. I use a paint external mixer purchased on Amazon which consistently and thourghly mixes the paint. The brand name is "Mini Vortexer" and highly recommend for mixing paints. Making sure paint is properly mixed is very important to prevent paint clogging of airbrush.

5. After adding thinned paint to cup I also add two drops of paint retarder (leveling agent) to paint in cup, stirring to uniform consistency.

6. One has to be meticulous in keeping an air brush clean not only between colors but also refilling paint in air cup. I use the brand airbrush cleaner as well as a 50/50 solution of original winder and de natured alcohol. In the least between, between cups of paint, I use brand airbrush cleaner followed by 2-3 sprays of 50/50 solution.

7. Never fill a paint cup more than half full and always place a lid on the cup not to accidentally spill the paint.

8. at the end of the day do a final cleaning as above and give a final spray of water; keep brush stored with water placed in cup and nozzle track.

9. I strongly recommend that you check out the tutorials at John Miller's website model paint solutions.com and read his tutorial on airbrush techniques. Great info there.

JNP

  • Member since
    December 2020
  • From: Kansas
Posted by DM1975 on Monday, January 18, 2021 10:37 PM

Thank you

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Monday, January 18, 2021 10:22 PM

DM1975

Thank you. I know it should be a hard demarcation but it is the first scale model I've built in like 30 years lol. 

 

Meh... I'm more of the soft edge guy.  To me, except in the German splinter schemes, hard edges tend to look more toy like.  Just my opinion in that though.

After seeing your WIP, it is nice work for being out of the game for that long.

  • Member since
    December 2020
  • From: Kansas
Posted by DM1975 on Monday, January 18, 2021 10:07 PM

I won't even post photos of my (first) attempt at pre shading lol. 

  • Member since
    December 2020
  • From: Kansas
Posted by DM1975 on Monday, January 18, 2021 10:01 PM

Thank you. I know it should be a hard demarcation but it is the first scale model I've built in like 30 years lol. 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Monday, January 18, 2021 8:46 PM

Nice soft edge camo on that 'hawk.

  • Member since
    December 2020
  • From: Kansas
Posted by DM1975 on Monday, January 18, 2021 8:31 PM

Thank you I am! Now on to trying to learn and master this art. I'm sure I'll be back here asking for help again more than once or twice. Big Smile

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, January 18, 2021 3:48 PM

oldermodelguy
That's really great, happy airbrushing !

Toast

Hope you start having some fun now.

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Monday, January 18, 2021 2:07 PM

That's really great, happy airbrushing !

  • Member since
    December 2020
  • From: Kansas
Posted by DM1975 on Monday, January 18, 2021 12:50 PM

Broken tip replaced and I'm using a Fortress 2 gallon compressor now. Thanks again everyone. 

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Sunday, January 17, 2021 5:06 PM

The loose tip alone will cause your problem you were having. But you only lightly snug them down. You can use a little lip balm ( or bees wax) on the threads and mating surfaces to help sealing,it really works great and reduces tighening friction too. Just sayin.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Sunday, January 17, 2021 4:37 PM

DM1975
.......the tip being loose, which I would have fixed the latter if only I had done a cleaning on it out of the box. Lessons learned

I think it is reasonable to assume a brand new airbrush is ready to go out of the box. This could have happened to an accomplished airbrush user.

It is good to know you are making progress. Yes

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Sunday, January 17, 2021 4:33 PM

I'll offer some ideas along with those of others, based on my time with airbrushes and hobby painting. When I started 50+ years ago, I had such poor results and so many problems that I thought airbrushing was just not something doable for me. Clogging, spattering, inconsistent paint condition, etc.

But seeing that others could do it well, I stuck with it and in time I learned some things that just cannot be overlooked. If we don't take the proper care and preparation everytime, the gremlins will surface. The following are just my suggestions.

When getting ready to remove any paint from the bottle, first ensure a thorough mixing of the contents. I use either plastic chopsticks or small metal spatulas to ensure all of the settled solid contents are lifted from the bottom, shaking the bottle just doesn't work well for me. Then the Badger mixing tool, or similar, churns everything up to a uniform blended consistency. If any thick chunks are allowed to be in the airbrush, clogging will immediately be the result.

Same with adding thinners, it's important to ensure a complete blending with the paint before adding to the airbrush. With regard to getting the paint out of the bottle, I recommend using a pipette or glass tube eyedropper to draw it out, as opposed to pouring over the side of the bottle. It's really important to keep the bottle tops and threads clean, or they won't seal properly for storing the paint.

I struggled with caring for my airbrushes, not really understanding how the components work together for proper function. Finally I sat at the bench and disassembled, then reassembled repeatedly, many times, until eventually I understood how to properly clean, lubricate, assemble, seat the parts and return the airbrush to service.

As the parts are small, nothing really needs much muscle when assembling, especially the tiny front end bits like the one that broke on your Iwata. Only finger tighten, then just a tiny nudge with the included wrench is plenty. Once you get the frustrations out of your way, airbrush painting will bring you years of enjoyment.

With regard to air pressure, I'm usually at 12-18 psi, but in some cases as high as 20-25. It all depends on what psi works best, testing the results will reveal what to set it at, before painting the subject, for each session.

I hope everything goes smoothly for you, as you proceed.

Patrick

  • Member since
    December 2020
  • From: Kansas
Posted by DM1975 on Sunday, January 17, 2021 4:23 PM

Also!!! Thank you all for the help. It is much appreciated. 

  • Member since
    December 2020
  • From: Kansas
Posted by DM1975 on Sunday, January 17, 2021 4:21 PM

oldermodelguy

 

 
DM1975

Well, I tightened it up, mixed some black, and it worked flawlessly. After pulling the airbrush apart to clean it again I went to put the tip back on, gave it just a little tug to make sure it was tight, and snapped the tip clean off lol. I got the threaded piece out. Guess it's off to Hobby Lobby tomorrow to get a new tip lol. 

 

 

 

The main thing is you know it sprays fine and to clean well.

 

I think it was due to the fact that I failed to clean it before the first use. Probably a combination of issues from not only my failure to clean it prior to use, but also from my junk compressor, and the tip being loose, which I would have fixed the latter if only I had done a cleaning on it out of the box. Lessons learned Big Smile

  • Member since
    December 2020
  • From: Kansas
Posted by DM1975 on Sunday, January 17, 2021 4:15 PM

I don't think the threads are stripped. The airbrush I got off Amazon has the same threads on the tip so I ran one down and it seated fine. It even fit under the Iwata cap and everything but I went ahead and pulled it and decided to buy a proper one for it. 

For tonight I have my airbrush from Amazon, and my old-as-dirt Aztek I can use.

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Sunday, January 17, 2021 4:07 PM

DM1975

Well, I tightened it up, mixed some black, and it worked flawlessly. After pulling the airbrush apart to clean it again I went to put the tip back on, gave it just a little tug to make sure it was tight, and snapped the tip clean off lol. I got the threaded piece out. Guess it's off to Hobby Lobby tomorrow to get a new tip lol. 

 

The main thing is you know it sprays fine and to clean well.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Sunday, January 17, 2021 2:49 PM

DM1975
Well, I tightened it up, mixed some black, and it worked flawlessly.

Great! Yes

DM1975
After pulling the airbrush apart to clean it again I went to put the tip back on, gave it just a little tug to make sure it was tight, and snapped the tip clean off lol.

Oh no! Surprise

DM1975
Guess it's off to Hobby Lobby tomorrow to get a new tip lol.

That's one thing I love about my HP-CS. Common repair parts at HobbyLobby. Yes

Iwata includes a little wrench (spanner) to tighten the cap and warns about over-tightening even with it. Sorry you just found out the hard way. I hope you didn't strip the threads.

  • Member since
    December 2020
  • From: Kansas
Posted by DM1975 on Sunday, January 17, 2021 1:49 PM

Well, I tightened it up, mixed some black, and it worked flawlessly. After pulling the airbrush apart to clean it again I went to put the tip back on, gave it just a little tug to make sure it was tight, and snapped the tip clean off lol. I got the threaded piece out. Guess it's off to Hobby Lobby tomorrow to get a new tip lol. 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Sunday, January 17, 2021 12:55 PM

Eaglecash867
That's enough to cause the issues you were seeing.

Indeed.

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Sunday, January 17, 2021 12:23 PM

DM1975

I pulled the Iwata apart. The tip was lose by about 1/8th of a turn. 

That's enough to cause the issues you were seeing.  Cool

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Sunday, January 17, 2021 12:19 PM

DM1975
Keep in mind the Iwata is bran new. I mean this was the first project I have used it on and I just bought it the day I posted this thread.

Just FYI, you can successfully clog your nozzle/tip in about 20 minutes with Stynylrez. As mentioned above, it dries fast. All I'm saying is your airbrush can be 20 years old or 20 minutes old, doesn't matter if you don't clean it out right away after spraying Stynylrez.

Smile

  • Member since
    December 2020
  • From: Kansas
Posted by DM1975 on Sunday, January 17, 2021 12:07 PM

Also ordering a paint mixer. 

  • Member since
    December 2020
  • From: Kansas
Posted by DM1975 on Sunday, January 17, 2021 11:49 AM

Keep in mind the Iwata is bran new. I mean this was the first project I have used it on and I just bought it the day I posted this thread. 

I pulled the Iwata apart. The tip was lose by about 1/8th of a turn. I don't know if this was ths issue or not as I haven't tried it yet. Last night I sprayed some Vallejo paint thinned to several different consistencys and had the same issue. 

Im pretty religious in my cleaning practices. I clean these air brushes like I would my rifle. I always pull everything apart after using it and detail clean everything under magnification and reassemble. 

Im rather confident in the fact that even if it's not the problem I need a new compressor. That will be done in the morning. As for wanting to get a Paasche, I think I also want to get a Badger 105 to try as well.  What can I say, I like gear! Stick out tongue

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Sunday, January 17, 2021 11:00 AM

DM1975

So it's probably my compressor that needs to be replaced but I seem to be getting back flow in the airbrush. Bubbles in the cup. Regardless of how much I thin it. 

As for mix that prime, I put some mixing balls in the bottle and shake the crap out of it lol. 

 

 Bubbles are generally a clog in the air cap, air cap or an unseated tip seat or seal ( depending on the type of seal/seat).... Can be a cracked tip too but I doubt both brushes would be cracked. They probably need a good cleaning. You can not let stynlrez dry in the tip or cap and it dries fast. I'd take the tip and caps etc and put them in a mixing bottle with lacquer thinner overnight.

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Sunday, January 17, 2021 9:32 AM

DM1975

As for mix that prime, I put some mixing balls in the bottle and shake the crap out of it lol. 

 

 
For many primers that isn't going to work.  The stuff that settles to the bottom is really thick usually, and mixing balls will either get stuck in it or roll around on top of it.  Better to use that battery-powered Badger mixer that Oldermodelguy recommended.  I have one of those too and they work really well.
 
If you're getting bubbles in your airbrush, that means something is loose in the airbrush itself.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    December 2020
  • From: Kansas
Posted by DM1975 on Sunday, January 17, 2021 9:01 AM

So it's probably my compressor that needs to be replaced but I seem to be getting back flow in the airbrush. Bubbles in the cup. Regardless of how much I thin it. 

As for mix that prime, I put some mixing balls in the bottle and shake the crap out of it lol. 

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