I surrender - Mission Model Paints

Sorry to hear this. Never used their paints before although I almost ordered some a few years ago after Testors killed off Polly scale (which also dried on the tip like crazy btw).  For now I still have enough PS paint to get by with...  so it's just the additive with the shelf life issue? If it was the paint I'd be furious...

Same issues here High. First time I tried them I fell in love but each time I got more frustrated with them for same reasons you state. Same thing happened to me with the poly too. I've switched to MRP for my main paints and still love them!

I live in a high (6000' above sea level) and dry (humidity rarely goes above 30%, but usually is in the teens) climate and I recently switched to MRP paints as well due to similar issues with other paints.  Both MRP and Tamiya airbrush really well in this environment...especially the MRP.  MRP shoots straight from the bottle, and Tamiya shoots great when I thin it with 99% isopropyl alcohol.  I have never used Mission Models paints, and at this point I have no reason to try them.  The main thing I don't like about the Tamiya paint I have is that most of them tend to be pretty fragile and take 1 or 2 days for a full cure.  MRP is rock hard in less than an hour.  Tried their brushable type (with the F designation in the part number) for the first time last night and it too is amazing paint.  Extremely fine silver pigment in their silver paint, so I was able to dry-brush it onto an F-16 boarding ladder without the "worn" areas being "sparkly"...they just looked like bare metal.  The dry-brushing took a little while, and the drop of paint I put on the palette remained brushable the whole time without having to add retarders or anything like that.

I have used Mission Models paints for one kit so far, and I do like them. But, for me it took a little getting used to them. First, their instructions about using only a few drops of thinner did not work for me. I had to spray them at approximately at a 1:1 ratio with thinner. And I did add a few drops of the MM retarder. After this adjustment, I did not get as much dry tip.

Granted, I seem to get some dry tip with every acrylic I use.

I hope this helps.

 

Eaglecash867

I live in a high (6000' above sea level) and dry (humidity rarely goes above 30%, but usually is in the teens) climate and I recently switched to MRP paints as well due to similar issues with other paints.  Both MRP and Tamiya airbrush really well in this environment...especially the MRP.  MRP shoots straight from the bottle, and Tamiya shoots great when I thin it with 99% isopropyl alcohol.  I have never used Mission Models paints, and at this point I have no reason to try them.  The main thing I don't like about the Tamiya paint I have is that most of them tend to be pretty fragile and take 1 or 2 days for a full cure.  MRP is rock hard in less than an hour.  Tried their brushable type (with the F designation in the part number) for the first time last night and it too is amazing paint.  Extremely fine silver pigment in their silver paint, so I was able to dry-brush it onto an F-16 boarding ladder without the "worn" areas being "sparkly"...they just looked like bare metal.  The dry-brushing took a little while, and the drop of paint I put on the palette remained brushable the whole time without having to add retarders or anything like that.

 

I like the sound of the brushable MRP paint Eagle. I will have to give them a shot!

 

rooster513

I like the sound of the brushable MRP paint Eagle. I will have to give them a shot!

 

Rooster, just look for any of their paints that have an A or an F in the part number and those will be the brushable ones.  Got the brushable version of their "Russian Green for Wheels" for possible touch-ups on some of the smaller details that will be getting airbrushed with that color on my Su-25M1 build.

Try it without the Poly addititive. I've been using the Mission Models paints for a few years, but never with the Poly additive, only their thinner. And I've never had any problems. My current home is at around 1000' above sea level in the Sonora Desert, and usually quite dry for humidity. My last residence was at sea level near the ocean, with the usual damp sea air and its typical humidity around 50%-70% depending upon season and time of day. So I've used the paint in different conditions and had standard good results when airbrushing. My only caveat to that is do not over thin the stuff. That's where I did have some problems.

stikpusher

Try it without the Poly addititive. I've been using the Mission Models paints for a few years, but never with the Poly additive, only their thinner. And I've never had any problems. ............

My only caveat to that is do not over thin the stuff. That's where I did have some problems.

 

When I tried MMP a few years back, I thinned and added the poly additive per mfg recommendations. It sprayed like water color paint. Some modelers like this method of airbrushing, I don't.

Thanks for the suggestion, Stik. I have my collection of said paints in limbo in my junk area. I might try it again.

Greg, I try to make my modeling dollars go as far as I can. I don't have that much to play with. My biggest gripe about acrylics is the formulations. One brands thinner will not work with another brands paints, unlike enamels, and may in fact have disastrous results when used together, speaking in modeler terms of course. And some brands require additions beyond mere thinner to airbrush properly. This can get quite expensive. Especially since most brands don't offer all of the colors one might need, so therefore one needs to use multiple paint lines & brands. So yeah, I was being frugal (a polite word for a cheap b*****d) in using Mission Models Paints without the poly additive. If it had needed the stuff in my experience, I would have moved on to another line. 
That is one reason that I am happy with my first use of Vallejo Model Air, just stir it up properly and put it in the airbrush. No thinning or additives needed, it's already in there. Aside from needing a primer undercoat, for airbrushing, it is as simple a paint to use as one could possibly hope for.

And conversely, I have just started using some lacquers in the form of MRP. In the solvent-based world, it seems to be just the opposite of what you speak of with 'acrylics', have a bottle of Mr Color Leveling Thinner on hand, and you're good to go with a whole bunch of products.

I hope you continue to like the Vallejo Model Air. It's been and still is my go-to. My only complaint with it was a rubbery-like finish, but I've since found that was my fault for laying it on to heavily.

Yeah I noticed the rubbery feel to the bare paint of Modelair. But once the gloss coat goes on for decals, that is no longer an issue. It's only temporary.
All these lacquer paints crack me up. We can't use enamels because the solvent thinners are bad for us, according to some. But the lacquers require just as harsh solvents for thinning and clean up. I'm not knocking the lacquers at all, but don't tell me that the thinners are any less hazardous. You can smell all the chemicals.

stikpusher

Yeah I noticed the rubbery feel to the bare paint of Modelair. But once the gloss coat goes on for decals, that is no longer an issue. It's only temporary.

That's just how I've felt about it.

stikpusher

All these lacquer paints crack me up. We can't use enamels because the solvent thinners are bad for us, according to some. But the lacquers require just as harsh solvents for thinning and clean up. I'm not knocking the lacquers at all, but don't tell me that the thinners are any less hazardous. You can smell all the chemicals.

That's true, and I had avoided them for lack of proper ventilation. I finally got an exhaust system that works, so I'm able to do more with Lacquers and the such now.

 

Greg,

This has nothing to do with paints or this topic but I saw your name here and wanted to ask you a question.  I think a few months ago you posted some build pictures of Zukei-Mura 1/48 Phantom.  I'm considering purchasing the F4J Phantom 2, kit no.9.  Is that the one you have?  Is it a nice build?  I'm mostly concerned about engineering and fit.

wpwar11

Greg,

This has nothing to do with paints or this topic but I saw your name here and wanted to ask you a question.  I think a few months ago you posted some build pictures of Zukei-Mura 1/48 Phantom.  I'm considering purchasing the F4J Phantom 2, kit no.9.  Is that the one you have?  Is it a nice build?  I'm mostly concerned about engineering and fit.

 

If he doesn't notice this,you can also send a PM to him using the Messages section on your profile 

Thanks Tojo

You changed your picture.

 

wpwar11

Thanks Tojo

You changed your picture.

 

 

Yes,anold shot from Aberdeen before they closed

Thank you for all the great responses. I forgot to mention that my problems with MMP centered around painting 1/72 German WW2 Armor and Luftwaffe camouflage patterns...getting fine lines and mottling in this scale, even with my trusty Sparmax SP20X (.2mm), was an exercise in futility as noted.

However, MMP works using my .3mm guns on 1/35 German Armor Camo...actually sprays pretty much interrupted with just a slightest tip buildup...however, this amount of buildup, although slight, inhibits my ability to get the detail needed in 1/72 scale.  As noted I started adding more flow improver, thinner different ratios, etc and couldn't get the fine line detail in 1/72 with MMP.

With acrylics, I get the best flow for 1/72 small scale camouflage patterns using either Vallejo Model Air or Hataka Red Line with the following mix:

10 drops paint

4 drops Vallejo Airbrush Thinner

6 drops Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver

(Spray at 10 psi)

 

 

wpwar11

Greg,

This has nothing to do with paints or this topic but I saw your name here and wanted to ask you a question.  I think a few months ago you posted some build pictures of Zukei-Mura 1/48 Phantom.  I'm considering purchasing the F4J Phantom 2, kit no.9.  Is that the one you have?  Is it a nice build?  I'm mostly concerned about engineering and fit.

 

Yessir, mine is the F4J2, no 9, the Navy version. Good memory.

I'm on hold due to being away from my bench, but where I'm at is the body is assembled and primed. There will not be one splat of putty or filler used. I've never seen a fit like this on any aircraft model I've built so far. So I give engineering and fit very high marks for sure, and to me it is a really nice build so far, yes.

I'm looking forward to getting back at it.

If you'd like to chat more about the kit, Tojo is right, feel free to PM anytime.

And thanks to HighDesertModeler for the minor hijack, wish you luck with the Mission Model Paints.

I like the idea of pseudo water based paints like Vallejo and MMP, but have struggled with both. I'm giving MMP another try after reading some build tips from a site called Model Paint Solutions. No affiliation just read his build logs among others trying to learn how to do things better. He thins MMP using a concoction of their clear primer and their thinner. Basically he creates a thinner mix of 70% MMP thinner and 30% MMP Clear Primer. MMP paints are then thinned to 50:50 or thinner of paint to thinner mix. This 50:50 or thinner mix is similar to what I use for Tamiya. Ive tried 1 color now with great result on getting thin lines with a H&S Infinity .2 needle with little dry tip. On coverage using a 60:40 I can get really good modulation to keep the mottle work visible. I'm going to add a few more colors slowing and see how it pans out.

I picked up 4 bottles of MM Paints a while back and used them on a build and was impressed how well they sprayed. I followed the directions but the expensive Poly additive went bad in the bottle turning into jelly being about 2 years old.  I contacted them asking for a replacement and was told I was SOL. Some of my Testors enamel paints are 30+ years old and are still good. 

I did add a few more drops of thinner than recommended and also noticed a good solvent primer is needed otherwise the paint will easily scratch over bare plastic. 

I do not plan on getting any more of their paints and rather use the lacquer based ones.