Vallejo Air Paints

Mostly my point on Stynlrez is that it works and works well. Most acrylic based primers don't and so they all get a bad mark against them. Stynylrez can be bought with confidence. As to masks I always use one whether I use the booth or not, solvent paint or acrylic. I don't like sinus infections and now at nearing 71 I seem to get them awefully easy.

stikpusher

If any of the local shops ever do carry that Stynlyrez (or however it spelled) I'll pick some up to try. 

I hope you do. Afterwards, I suspect you will understand OMG's enthusiasm for the product.

I finally got my booth properly vented last summer, and can now spray stuff like Tamiya and Mr Surfacer indoors without worry. But Stynylrez remains my go-to for priming.

One thing I love about Tamiya rattle can primer, though; shake, spray, turn upside down and spray a bit to clear and nozzle, cap it, shelve it and you're done. No clean up.

I don't mind stinky primers and paints at all. I have a mask, a fan, and can open my garage workshop area door to blow those fumes all outdoors. If any of the local shops ever do carry that Stynlyrez (or however it spelled) I'll pick some up to try. In the meantime, they do carry the Tamiya stuff, my old go to of Humbrol, as well as Mig products. I am not keen for online ordering/delivery, when I can drive down to the local shop, and get what I need and perhaps impulse buy something else. Lol. Besides, I like to support the local shops to maintain the ability to go visit them. I get taxed nowadays if I buy online anyways, so that advantage is gone, and shipping fees are more than the cost of gas here.

Nothing wrong with Tamiya primer. I just want to reiterate though, that should you be inclined to want to get away from "stinky" primers that Stynylrez will do the job well under both actylics and enamel paints ( I think you mentioned still using some enamel as you make this move, though I could be wrong). It works under the hybrid acrylics too, like Tamiya acrylic. Hot lacquer is still up in the air though, I've done it but I don't use enough hot lacquer to get a good handle on it's use over styn. My inclination is that it's not a perfect match with HL.

Greg

 

 

Buckeye2

Thanks! I’ve had good results with Tamiya primer.

 

 

You're welcome.

You should be golden using Vallejo over Tamiya Surface primer. Fine choice.

 

Thats what I used on my recent X-35, and the combination worked excellent.

Buckeye2

Thanks! I’ve had good results with Tamiya primer.

You're welcome.

You should be golden using Vallejo over Tamiya Surface primer. Fine choice.

Buckeye2

Thanks for your input!

Do they hold up well to masking given a proper curing time?

I think I’ll give these a try.  I’ve been using a mixture of acrylics and enamels and want to try and standardize. 

Mike

 

I have been using Vallejo colors for a few years now, and what originally got me interested in them was the fact that they sell sets of 8 paints according to specific subjects.  I spray the Model Air with a few drops of thinner, mostly because I am usually using black basing which requires the paint to be just a touch thinner than straight from the bottle. 

I typically dont worry about "color accuracy", as I dont build for contests, and besides, after the black basing, the oil and chalk weathering, the color isnt true any more anyhow.

I did have a problem with the Vallejo primer not biting into the surface, causing lifting when masking camo patterns, so I switched to either Tamiya fine grey in rattle can or Army Painter black primer in a rattle can as my ground coat, and I havent had a problem since.

As for the drying time, I actually have an old food dehydrator, left laying around by my job's "shop crackhead", that no one wanted.  I snatched that thing up and use it to dry my models.  I will typically take a break from the bench after paint, so popping the model in the dehydrator for a few hours really dries it out really nice, and when I am ready to get back to work, so is the kit!

Greetings Mike. I am a retired guy who took up plastic modeling 3 years ago and have finally decided that all factors considered, to use exclusively Vallejo Model Air & Model Color as my acrylic paint. My interest is in WW2 & PreWW2 Airplanes. First, the dropper bottles are perfect, supplying a satisfactory volume & quality of paint. There is a learning curve to using the paint but some thinning is necessary as far as I'm concerned. I think to about 20% thinner/10% flow improverto 70% paint using Model Air exclusively. My airbrush is a H&S Infinity with mostly a 0.2 needle. PSI is about 15. My cleaning time for needle clog is quite minimal as long as you air brush cleaner between cup fulls. I'm at a point where I add directly to paint cup and mixing in cup. Let me know how you do.  

Thanks!  I’ve had good results with Tamiya primer.

Mike

Buckeye2

Do they hold up well to masking given a proper curing time?

Yes, but it is important to use a proper primer first. (Tamiya surface primer, Stynylrez, Mr Surfacer to name a few). As already mentioned above, I strongly suggest you avoid Vallejo primer. It doesn't adhere very well, and you do not want a primer coat pulling up.

Thanks for your input!

Do they hold up well to masking given a proper curing time?

I think I’ll give these a try.  I’ve been using a mixture of acrylics and enamels and want to try and standardize. 

Mike

I like Vallejo Model Air for airbrushing and it remains my go-to paint regardless of phasing in some MRP acrylic lacquers and pure lacquers over time.

I agree with what's already been said that it is best to plan a clear protective coat. OTOH, I've recently discovered (after more years than I should mention) that I have probably been laying it on way too thick.

For brush painting, Vallejo Model color is hard to beat.

I primarily like the Vallejo line for it's color availability. I know some folks don't like the dropper bottle, but I do. They help me waste very little paint.

I use some Model Air and like what I have, mostly earthy and canvas colors etc. But my disclaimer is I coat the next day with Liquitex varnish, be that flat or a combo of flat and satin. So that being the case I've had no issues with rub off or scratching and they look great to my eyes. I bought them a couple of years back mostly to just try and found no issue but that may be because I coat most all acrylics with one form or another of clear coat. I've never tried to brush paint them, I just figure they aren't made for that so why do it. Vallejo makes a brush paint line of paints too though as mentioned already.

I don't use Vallejo primer though, I use Stnylrez.

I am not a fan. I found them to thin, and as mentioned above, took to long to dry.

I tried Vallejo Model Air for the first time on my last aircraft project and was happy with them. They do have a different "feel", once dry, feeling a bit rubbery to the touch. But that goes away as soon as it's covered with the gloss coat for decals. I really liked the simple fact that everything is already in the bottle, just shake it enough to insure proper mixing, put it into your airbrush, and spray it. Pure simplicity at its best. I'll certainly be using them more in the future.

My experience with Vallejo Model Air has not been a good one.  The few that I have tried have been inconsistent in whether or not they'll spray straight from the bottle.  They take forever to cure and are extremely soft and fragile.  As for color accuracy, the few that I tried for SAC SIOP colors weren't even close to being accurate

I have started using MRP paints recently, and they are fantastic.  They all spray right out of the bottle, cure fully in less than an hour, and are rock-hard when cured.  No burning in with fingerprints, and no scratching off with your fingernail.

Model Air is good.  It comes pre-thinned for airbrushing. As such it may be a bit problematic for hand brushing; thin, transparent, & watery. Vallejo's Model Color is their brushable paint.  It may be thinned for airbrushing. Model Air and Model Color are compatible.   See also Game Color/Game Air.  

These paints dry to handle quickly but need a day or more to harden completely.  They may be fragile until hardened

I also use Reaper MSP Core colors.  Handles similar to Model Color