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Canopy Clear coating

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  • Member since
    September 2020
  • From: UK
Canopy Clear coating
Posted by CliveEH on Friday, March 26, 2021 2:53 AM

Hi all

Does anyone clear coat their canopies after painting while it's still masked?  I want to protect the paint and the alternative seems to be to brush on a clear coat afterwards    My worry is that it will remove paint when my masking is removed.   Usually I paint the canopy prior to finally attaching. Thank you

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: UK
Posted by Jon_a_its on Friday, March 26, 2021 4:39 AM

A common method, vary to suit your build as needed.

Clean/polish Canopy

DIP in Future/Kleer/Pledge

Allow to DRY for days!

Assemble, & fix to model

MASK

Spray Future again to seal edges

Spray interior colour

Spray exterior colours with rest of model

Spray Future again

Carefully score edges of mask with new scalpel blade & peel off mask

I don't do many planes for some reason. Stick out tongue

East Mids Model Club 32nd Annual Show 2nd April 2023

 http://www.eastmidsmodelclub.co.uk/

Don't feed the CM!

 

  • Member since
    September 2020
  • From: UK
Posted by CliveEH on Friday, March 26, 2021 5:27 AM

Thank you Jon

Future and then use a new blade  Sounds like a plan

I've spent 2 months on a 1/48 A-10 knowing all the while that the good work will be for nothing if I mess up the canopy  Having a rest with a tank next

 

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Land of Lakes
Posted by cbaltrin on Friday, March 26, 2021 7:20 AM

Wow, that is a lot of work. 3 coats of future?

On the Bench: Too Much

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Land of Lakes
Posted by cbaltrin on Friday, March 26, 2021 7:25 AM

I polish my clear parts.  I never use future, but I am probably a minority. That said...

I don't clear coat my clear parts if the canopy frame is a different color than the surrounding area; however, if it is supposed to be the same color and you do not clear coat (yes, with the mask still on!), it will have a different shade/sheen than the surrounding area. This holds true mainly for 'flat' finishes. If you are building something glossy, you can probably get away with not clear coating.  Final consideration is how durable is he paint that you are using? If it is  a delicate paint, then you should also clear coat if  you expect to handle the part after painting...

On the Bench: Too Much

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, March 26, 2021 8:00 AM

The only problem I have with clear coating canopies and windows is seeing a heavily weathered plane with fifty mission marks or victory marks but with pristine transparencie.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Friday, March 26, 2021 8:11 AM

I have only dipped 2 canopies in Future, and won't be doing it again.  Future reacts badly with some of the liquid maskers out there.  So, I'll just be polishing my canopies from now on like cbaltrin.  Its what I had to do anyway on the last canopy I dipped in Future.  Gotta love that Novus kit!

I personally don't like going near my clear parts with any kind of sharp, metal object.  So, I just make sure to be conscious of the angle at which I'm hitting the masking line with the airbrush.  I always am either perpendicular to the masking line, or angled a little bit from the masked side to the painted side so I don't build up a ridge.  I never point the aibrush into the edge of the mask and lay down the primer and paint in light, thin passes.  If you are conscious of your airbrushing angles and don't have a thick layer of primer/paint, then you can slowly peel off the mask, running parallel to the edge, with the masking essentially being folded back over itself as you pull...then you don't have chipping or peeling issues.

Did that with this F-16 canopy that is several layers of different paints.  1. Decanted Tamiya Surface primer (outside of canopy only) 2. Tamiya X-18 (inside and outside) 3. Remasked outside with shifted placement for simulating sealant strip, then applied Model Master Enamel FS36270 to entire model with canopy temporarily mounted with Blue Tack 4. Masked model and canopy for second camo color, Model Master Enamel FS36118 5. Future clear coat for decals and weathering 6. Testors Dull Cote 7. MRP Super Matt Clear (just because the Testors didn't get it flat eneough for me, next time I'll skip the Testors).  Even with all those thin layers of dissimilar paints, didn't have chipping or peeling issues and didn't have to get a piece of metal near the canopy.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

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