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Hello all
It has been a while since I made a post here at FSM,so bear with me here.
I just used Tamiya's Surface Primer Gray(L) rattle can on a Tamiya Zero Fighter.I sprayed about 2-3 even coats,and followed the directions as advised.The only issue I have with this is,is it supposed to make the plastic rough?I mean,I know it's a primer that is considered "hot",but this made my model feel like sandpaper.Is it supposed to do this?I would love a reply back from you experienced fellow modelers.
Thanks
Max
Thanks,TheModeler(Novice Mode{Just for now})
ON THE BENCH(My first ones):
-1:25 AMT/Round2 1969 Yenko Camaro(40% done)
-1:72 Atlantis Models Bell UH-1B Gunship Helicopter (20% done)
In the stash:
-1963 AMT 1/32 Corvette Stingray
-Tamiya Mitsubishi A6M3 "Hamp" Zero,1/76
-Atlantis Models BELL Firefighter "Old Smokey",1/76
If your primer is drying rough, odds are good that you're holding the can too far from the surface and it's drying before it hits the model.
OK,so should I just soak the sprues in Lacquer thinner and try again closer to the model?I think I held it around 10 inches awa from the surface.
Soaking sprues in lacquer thinner is not a good idea. Some thinners will melt away plastic if it's left to soak. Light grade sand paper is advisable if you don't have Purple Power, Simple Green, or other such paint strippers.
TheModeler OK,so should I just soak the sprues in Lacquer thinner and try again closer to the model?I think I held it around 10 inches awa from the surface.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
Being primer you may be able to simply scuff it smooth with 1500 or 2000 grit soft touch mesh pads or even 000 steel wool, not to strip it but to smooth it.. Then squirt a wet second coat on top. Sounds to me like you sprayed it on too dry but I've seen some pretty rough lacquer primer coats sand right out smooth quite easily... With 1500 you may wear through in a few areas, thats ok the next coat of primer will cover that. Sometimes this is common practice to level minor imperfections even if your first coat came out good.
Many primers do dry rough. These primers are meant to fill small defects as well as aid adhesion, so they have a high solid content.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Tojo72Not Tamiya Fine, properly used it drys smooth.
I was not using Tamiya Fine,but the regular "Gray" primer.
TheModeler Tojo72 Not Tamiya Fine, properly used it drys smooth. I was not using Tamiya Fine,but the regular "Gray" primer.
Tojo72 Not Tamiya Fine, properly used it drys smooth.
Sorry,fine has been good to me,but the stuff I'm currently using has not been rough either
Maybe too far away from model
Using the regular grey stuff here too and even when I was shooting it straight from the rattle can it dried smooth all but one time. I think the one time it didn't was because I had forgotten to clear the nozzle on the previous spraying session.
TheModeler, have you tried holding the can upside-down and spraying to clear the nozzle?
Eaglecash867 Have you tried holding the can upside-down and spraying to clear the nozzle?
Have you tried holding the can upside-down and spraying to clear the nozzle?
In fact,I have.But I don't think that was the problem,considering it was a brand-new can when it sprayed rough.
When you push down on the can's head, are you trying to control the flow by pushing down part way or are you pushing it all the way down?
Wait, .......let me back up. How much experience do you have painting with rattle cans?
Greg When you push down on the can's head, are you trying to control the flow by pushing down part way or are you pushing it all the way down? Wait, .......let me back up. How much experience do you have painting with rattle cans?
Well,embarassly,only a few months worth.I like to spray the can in short spurts,but according to this thread,I need to push all the way...?
TheModelerWell,embarassly,only a few months worth.I like to spray the can in short spurts,but according to this thread,I need to push all the way...?
Yup. You need to push all the way, move in a sweeping motion in one direction, and start the spray before the model...and don't stop until after you have passed the end of the model. The start and stop on a spray can will always "spit" a little bit.
Eaglecash867 Yup. You need to push all the way, move in a sweeping motion in one direction, and start the spray before the model.
Yup. You need to push all the way, move in a sweeping motion in one direction, and start the spray before the model.
OK,I never knew it was that way.The only reason I didn't push all the way in the past is because I wanted to conserve paint.
TheModeler Eaglecash867 Yup. You need to push all the way, move in a sweeping motion in one direction, and start the spray before the model. OK,I never knew it was that way.The only reason I didn't push all the way in the past is because I wanted to conserve paint.
Having to strip the model and respray pretty well negates conservation of paint. There is a lot of waste with rattle cans and that's pretty much how it is. Put it down wet, one or two coats and you're done. That's about as conservative as it gets. But you get a nice finish the first time. Rattle cans are quick,just keep it moving. I personally spray in both directions, you gat a rythym going and you learn to press and release closer and closer to the model in an automatic way so you blow less out into no where land. In 1/1 we learned to start the shoot with the gun angled and then turn it into the job cause you can't do a pass the length of a car or truck. I don't do it much different with models, the key is keep moving.
TheModelerWell,embarassly,only a few months worth.
No need to be embarrassed. Painting with rattle cans takes practice too.
Eaglecasha and OMG already gave you all the right stuff, here's my version of how I try to remember to do it.
1. Sweeping motions. Start off the model, push all the way down, finish sweep off the model at the other end.
2. Repeat as necessary in overlapping passes.
Never stop moving and (generally speaking) spray a little closer and a bit wetter than you might think you should.
Let us know how these techniques work out for you.
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