To prime or not to prime?

If I'm hand painting small plastic parts, I do not prime. Any large parts or assemblies get primed before painting. All metal and resin parts need primer. I use Gunze Mr Metal Primer on hand painted metal parts, and Tamiya lacquer primer in a bottle for hand painted resin parts.

To help ensure paint adhesion, you should wash the parts in an unscented dish soap that contains no hand lotion. I use Ivory. This is to remove any mold release, hand oils, etc. that could be on the parts.

I don't generaly wash metal parts and never wash photoetch. Not a rust issue. I actually don't have a good reason why. :-) I just haven't and haven't had any issues.

Mike

If delicate paintwork is the problem, and using primer is the solution, use primer.  Having lots of parts is central to modelling but, if that puts you off, try assembling parts into sub-assemblies first - e.g. cockpit, engines, (or hull/turret) etc. - then prime the sub-assemblies.  Or prime everything all in one go while still on the sprue (after washing in soapy water).  Personally, I use the sub-assembly approach - and still wash the sprues first.

VintageRPM

If I'm hand painting small plastic parts, I do not prime. Any large parts or assemblies get primed before painting. All metal and resin parts need primer. I use Gunze Mr Metal Primer on hand painted metal parts, and Tamiya lacquer primer in a bottle for hand painted resin parts.

To help ensure paint adhesion, you should wash the parts in an unscented dish soap that contains no hand lotion. I use Ivory. This is to remove any mold release, hand oils, etc. that could be on the parts.

I don't generaly wash metal parts and never wash photoetch. Not a rust issue. I actually don't have a good reason why. :-) I just haven't and haven't had any issues.

Mike

 

Does regular dish soap work as well?

When in doubt prime.  In addition to aiding adhesion and smoothness it protects plastic from hotter paints like lacquer.

I do get by hand painting small parts without priming- I use Testors enamel, known for its brushability.

VintageRPM

I don't generaly wash metal parts and never wash photoetch. Not a rust issue. I actually don't have a good reason why. :-) I just haven't and haven't had any issues

Bill

I never washed a sprue or a model in my life and never had any problems,so that's a choice.

As far as priming every part, not usually.Not tiny nobs or handles in a cockpit,but I will prime the completed sub assembly,same with tiny armor accessories I won't prime them individually but as part of an assembly.But if I'm just adding one part later,no I wouldn't prime it.

Hutch6390

  Or prime everything all in one go while still on the sprue (after washing in soapy water). 

Bill

Wash or wipe off with alchohol and always prime. You will never be sorry you primed something first. Not priming is just skipping a step to make it quicker, you are not making it better by just painting. I always prime now, no exceptions. I no longer have adhiesion issues and I can control the color better. Just my two cents.

BK

I've only ever used Ivory dish soap. Other brands should be just fine. You don't want it to have any lotion for your hands in it, because that will just grease up the parts. I've been told to avoid scented dish soap, but I haven't tried it out.

Mike

Teenage Modeler

 

Does regular dish soap work as well?

 

BrandonK

You will never be sorry you primed something first

That's the way I look at it, too.

Once, I was sorry I didn't prime something, and the model was almost done, and that's not an experience I care to repeat.

Yes just to note, my post above is based on tests I conducted but in my models I prime everything that will get color regardless of type of paint I will use.. For small parts I leave them right on the sprues. I just scrape off what I can of any flash if there is any and later touch up the cut off points if they show. I often paint color on the small parts right on the sprue as well.

I never bother to prime fuselage halves and wing parts while they are on sprue- I know they will have seams to contend with.