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airbrushing fine lines

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 27, 2004 4:42 AM
Got a Revell Flex (T&C Vega..) yesterday and managed to get a .6mm line. VERY happy and VERY impressed, but need loads of practice still. The thing I found was it was pretty hard to start a line without getting the squashed-bug-on-windshield effect first. Then again I was working with a can instead of a compressor.. I think lower pressure is the key to that. Thankfully I can use either gravity feed or suction cup, so the really fine stuff will be done on gravity with lower pressure.. Right?
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Alice Springs Australia
Posted by tweety1 on Wednesday, April 21, 2004 7:14 AM
The thin lines in Armormasters picture is what my Aztek managed with my assistance using 50/50 Gunze acrylic and Tamiya thinnerWink [;)]
--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Wednesday, April 21, 2004 6:45 AM
I use Badger airbrushes and I can't help you with the parts (why am I even answering this post??? Confused [%-)])

I tend to agree with both SaltyDog and plasticmod992. You should use the thinnest paint and the lowest air pressure that you can, but you need to find the setting that works best for your airbrush, experience, and paint type. If it takes 30 psi then it takes 30 psi. I spray at between 10 and 15 psi, but I can't paint a thin line for anything. It isn't an issue with my brush or paint or air though, it's just plain me! I guess what I'm trying to say is that the key to painting thin lines is lots and lots of practice!
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: The Hoosier State
Posted by plasticmod992 on Tuesday, April 20, 2004 7:30 PM
Paasches spray best at higher air setting. Using enamels in my Paasche VL for fine lines I thinned the paint 50:50 with Turpentine, cracked up the air to around 30 psi and gently pulled back on the trigger to release a small dot of color. With the VL you can also turn the small rotory dial located in front of the trigger to essentially dial the dot size for spraying the constant line without having to constantly press down and pull back the trigger. I recreated a very nice camo scheme on a model some time ago using this method. Something else I also recommend is straining your paint through panty hose or plumbers mesh. This will effectively remove tiny unmixed clumps of paint from the mix and help eliminate tip clogs.
Greg Williams Owner/ Manager Modern Hobbies LLC Indianapolis, IN. IPMS #44084
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Lower Alabama
Posted by saltydog on Tuesday, April 20, 2004 7:25 PM
its been a long time since ive used a paashe VL, but the key to any fine line in my experience has been thin paint and low air pressure. i use an omni 5000, iwata hp-c, iwata hp-cs. dont live in the outback so i couldn't tell ya where to find the parts. later.
Chris The Origins of Murphy's Law: "In the begginning there was nothing, and it exploded."!!! _________ chris
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 20, 2004 5:51 PM
those fat lines are about what my aztek can put out Wink [;)]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 20, 2004 9:54 AM
I use about 35-40 psi and I dilute the paint to milk consistancy. But I have an Iwata hp-cs. These are the results I got with my Iwata under these conditions.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: NSW, Australia
airbrushing fine lines
Posted by pingtang on Tuesday, April 20, 2004 8:44 AM
Hi there

I've am fairly new to airbrushing and was wondering if you had any tips for spraying fine lines. I have a paasche VL double action airbrush. What sort of pressure do you use and do you thin the paint more than usual? Also I need a new valve washer for the airbrush mentioned above , does anyone know where I could pick up a new one in Australia?

Thanks
-Daniel
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