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Its kind of funny i guess...it never crossed my mind that setting solution wasnt always necesary. Now i konw they are NOT always necesary and when they are...apply it sparingly to the decal only...soak up any residue.
Lesson learned.
Perfection is having fun and relaxing...not building the perfect model.
On the bench: Revell 1:48 Spitfire MKII and Monogram 1:48 P-40B
Neve a waste of time, sometimes we need others to help us see the forset thru the trees. It is how we learn. Glad you dicovered and made satisfactory changes to how you do stuff. I like a good head scratcher somerimes
we're modelers it's what we do
A couple things...first this post is a product of my inexperience. I mis-used the decal setting soloution. I basicly covered my model in it...let it pool and never removed it. Both micro sol and the AK. I had never used the stuff before and didnt know any better. I cant blame either product...or the future frankly.
Second...i sanded off the finger prints and re-glossed with future and all is well now...or well enough anyays.
I tried another experement on my paint donkey with futre this time using the decal solution only when need and then as designed and it was perfect.
Sorry to waist everyones time. I will say this for myself...im learning a ton and having a blast. Ive not made the same mistake twice!
I can only assume the formula changed. I've used the same bottle for 20 years or so maybe more. Not to save money, but I like the finish and the lack of interaction. This model is at least 15 years old, no cracks, no yellowing and a nice high gloss sheen. There's more Future in my future
Thanks,
John
Cadet Chuck I've said it before: Future is for floors.....
I've said it before: Future is for floors.....
On the bench:
A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!
2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed
14 / 5 / 2
Sorry you got bit by using it. Yeah the formula probably changed over the years, with new chemicals and ingredients.
I have always thought it was a little foolish to trying and save a few dollars on the last part of a build, and chance ruining a kit that I paid upwards of $50-60 for, I have several kits that are $150 and up. At least causing me to have go strip it and start over. You can have tens of hours invested, and have to start over. Always, always safer to go with the paint manufacturers product, then you know it's compatible.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
I also stick to the modeling products.
Back when I was still using Future, I always let it cure no less than a week before doing anything to the model....and I still had those same issues. Sometimes it went away, sometimes it didn't. In addition to the problems you're seeing with reactions to setting agents, just wait until you see what a mess it makes of your nicely painted canopy that you dipped in it, and then used a liquid masker. Also, a couple of weeks from now, once you have dealt with all of those other issues, you'll get to see your whole model develop a nice, elaborate spider web of cracks in the Future. The cracking problem happens no matter how long you let your paint underneath it cure...3 weeks for Tamiya paint should be plenty of time...but the Future will still crack. You can prevent that by putting a lacquer clearcoat over it, but then you'll wonder as I did what the point is of using Future in the first place. There are much better alternatives available now, and I don't think that the current formulation of Future is the same as what people have been saying good things about. When I want an acrylic clearcoat now, I have been using AK Interactive's Intermediate Gauzy Agent Shine Enhancer. You can resume working on your model within an hour or two of putting that on. Not even Solvaset (the most powerful of the decal solvents) makes it angry. Don't worry though, the Future you have left can be used as an adhesive for small, flat photo etch parts and small clear parts. The rest, of course, can be used on your linoleum floors.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...
Hey Guys,
Cure time was over 24hrs...mabe 36? Seemed dry to me!
Once i finish the decals tomorow ill recoat with future and see how she goes. Im really hoping it works for me...this stuff is so easy to spray and so cheap!
THANK YOU for the help
I've seen this. In my case it went away after a bit. And I've read subsequent application of future cures it as well. Let it cure up a bit longer before decals
I have not used Future for awhile and when I do I usually just spot cover with a brush the area I need glossed, place my decal almost immediately, then roll a dry cotton bud( q-tip) over the area. I then let everything dry for a couple days...more out of getting busy with something else than anything, then I dull cote it. Still have a few rattle cans of Dull Cote to use up.
To try to answer your question, it sounds like a reaction between the decal solutions and the future. Did you cover the entire model? Was the Future completely cured before introducing the other solutions? Also has the cloud cleared and fingerprints deminished since original post?
Im having an issue with Pledge Future and am wondering if anyone else has noticed this. Upone using Micro Sol/Set and AK decal solution, the future clouds up and gets soft. The cloudiness tends to go away BUT...ive got a cople spots with a white residue and fingerprints on it now.
What happened?
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