I used AK Interactive's True Metal to paint on my Pegasus model of Nautilus from 20,000 Leagues Under the Seas. I like the look, and it was easy to brush on (I don’t have an airbrush, nor couldI use one in my small apartment.). The problem is with the model's windows.
The kit is supplied with pre-die-cut masks, but they didn't stick worth a darn and some of the True Metal seeped under the masks.* Now I'm trying to remove the excess True Metal, which is thoroughly dried/cured, with little success. Acrylic thinner and lacquer thinner don't seem to touch it. Odorless paint thinner kinda sorta works, as does Mr. Paint Remover, but the clear plastic still seems cloudy and stained. AK Interactive sells XTreme paint thinner seems useless, and “XTremely” volatile and stinky and probably dangerous. I wrote to True Metal a week ago to ask their advice, but they haven’t responded. Have any of you Finescalers had experience removing True Metal paint (which is more paste-like than paint-like)?
Bob
*I may have made a mistake with the masks. Even though I sealed them with clear Tamiya spray before painting, I had applied a coat of Pledge floor wax, which I assume is similar to Future, to the windows. Perhaps the Pledge, even though had been drying for several days, may have compromised the adhesive masks.
On the bench: A diorama to illustrate the crash of a Beech T-34B Mentor which I survived in 1962 (I'm using Minicraft's 1/48 model of the Mentor), and a Pegasus model of the submarine Nautilus of 20,000 Leagues Under the Seas fame.