Priming and Clear Coating all parts?

I don't prime small parts that have no seams and won't be handled.

Hello!

It's worth noting, that you don't prime and clear-coat driven by custom or a religious belief - you do it for a reason. If there's no reason, you don't do it. Thing is, very often there is a reason.

For example - it I paint with acrylics I want them to stick to the surface (normally they don't want to stick very much) - I apply primer to help with that. I also prime under colours that don't want to cover (white, yellow, red). And to check for surface defects.

But then if I used Humbrol paints of a nice handling colour on a good surface, then I wouldn't bother. Things like your control stick are a good one, too.

Same with clear coats. Much of them goes on because of decals, but if, say the markings were painted on than there would be less need for them - but then there's weathering. Or if the paint went on gloss then there would be no need to gloss-coat under the decals.

Hope it helps - good luck with your builds and have a nice day

Paweł

I always prime everything before painting.  Doing that has shown me on multiple occasions when I missed cleaning up a parting line or filling an ejector pin mark so I can get any strays cleaned up before the final paint goes on.

Since I'm using almost all MRP lacquers at this point, I don't usually bother with a clearcoat before decals because almost all of the MRP paints are semi-gloss and accept decals really well without getting silvering.  I clearcoat after decals to protect them from my water-based Flory washes that I use for weathering...usually using either Semi Gloss or Semi Matte clearcoat, depending on how much "staining" I want from the wash.  After that's done, I put on a final clearcoat to seal everything in and what sheen I select is based on what the real-world object looks like.  Really like the MRP Semi Matte clearcoat for cockpits because that's the sheen they have in real life.

Its good to come to places like this and get advice, but try not to take our advice as an "always do this" or "always do that" set of absolutes.  Try the various pieces of advice out and see what works best for you and your building style.  I've been building models for a while and am still constantly learning and trying new techniques on my builds...its what keeps it interesting.

Eaglecash867

I always prime everything before painting.  Doing that has shown me on multiple occasions when I missed cleaning up a parting line or filling an ejector pin mark so I can get any strays cleaned up before the final paint goes on.

Since I'm using almost all MRP lacquers at this point, I don't usually bother with a clearcoat before decals because almost all of the MRP paints are semi-gloss and accept decals really well without getting silvering.  I clearcoat after decals to protect them from my water-based Flory washes that I use for weathering...usually using either Semi Gloss or Semi Matte clearcoat, depending on how much "staining" I want from the wash.  After that's done, I put on a final clearcoat to seal everything in and what sheen I select is based on what the real-world object looks like.  Really like the MRP Semi Matte clearcoat for cockpits because that's the sheen they have in real life.

Its good to come to places like this and get advice, but try not to take our advice as an "always do this" or "always do that" set of absolutes.  Try the various pieces of advice out and see what works best for you and your building style.  I've been building models for a while and am still constantly learning and trying new techniques on my builds...its what keeps it interesting.

 

Thanks for the tip, man. I like how you included how some modeling techniques and things that I hear are the things that I have to do. It's the fact that this hobby has a lot of experimentation involved and there is no one size fits all technique, but something that works. Thanks for the note, and that reminded me of my dad telling me things such as "you don't need to buy red gloss as per the instructions say. You can just use flat red and clear it with gloss."