Stripping paint

I had heard that simple green does the job,surprising to me that also Iso Alcohol does the job.

I use spray can easy off.

Bill

I always use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and a cheap electric toothbrush to strip paint.  Works on any kind of model paint and won't hurt the plastic.  You can strip down to the bare plastic in less than 20 minutes, and it'll be ready to accept new paint without any other steps.

I use Super Clean (I buy it by the gallon). I just soak parts in it, then scrub with a toothbrush.

Be Aware: As harmless as Super Clean appears to be, it is extremely caustic and should be handled with care.

On the rare occasion that hasn't worked, brake fluid hasn't failed me yet. (as effective as it is, I avoid using it as I really have no way to dispose of it properly).

I use Super Clean in the purple bottle from Wal-Mart.  Low odor and it strips chrome parts as well.  Only takes a few minutes.  It will not remove a lacquer top coat over the paint or on some chrome pieces but a quick wipe down with thinner solves that if you run into that problem.

Ive used Easy Off cans with success to strip the kit chrome parts.  I don't have any of those other materials on hand.  I'll try the Easy OFF.  

Thanks.  I hope you guys have a safe and happy holiday weekend.

They say left to soak with some of these cleaners and some styrene but not all, that the plastic can turn brittle. I've found for a short solution using Drano Gel formula works quickly, scrape it off with plastic utensils. But chrome in particyular melts away. For a long term soak I use Purple Power which is pretty gentle and can be found in Walmart. Between a stiff tooth brush, plastic grease scraper for pans and the back side of a plastic butter knife ( I've even used metal) the paint comes off easy. But it is a much slower process, think at least over night soak, and requires a little elbow grease. All that said , with lacquers I'd think 91-99% IPA (or ISO as people say), would do it ( drug store isopropyl rubbing alcohol of 91-99% not 50 or 70%).

My experience with Tamiya rattle can paint is that it is resistant to Purple power and easy off. Ask me how I know. The only tried and true method with Tamiya rattle cans I have found is DOT 3 Brake fluid and a week of soaking and scrubbing with a stiff tooth brush. Other paints and brands come off with other methods just fine, but not Tamiya rattle cans. That stuff is stubburn. Good luck.

BK

oldermodelguy

They say left to soak with some of these cleaners and some styrene but not all, that the plastic can turn brittle.

Yup, and Easy Off is one of the worst things for turning styrene brittle...not to mention the toxic fumes and the effect it has on unprotected skin.  99% alcohol removes every kind of model paint (basically dissolves it, so there's no scraping or peeling needed), no matter how long its been on the model, and is safe for plastic, skin, and lungs. 

A word of advice, do not EVER soak plastic parts in lacquer thinner. The lacquer thinner will dissolve the plastic part.

I soaked the hood of one my models in lacqure thinner overnight. The next day the part had dissolved into plastic goo.