70 Years old

Mrchntmarine

Still cant get my 105 to stop bubbling.  Bought that and an Extreme back during their anniversary sale.  The Extreme is no problem .  But the other is a too bad situation.  Ken says if it sprays water w/o bubbling (which it does) then its ok.

 

But how to stop the bubbling.  I have a post on here somewhere about it.  Its even been back to be rebuilt and they replaced a tiny metal shaving from the inside.

Still bubbles.... 

 

There is a metal to metal seal between the nozzle and the body of the 105.  If it is not perfect, you will get bubbles in the cup.  A tiny scratch could cause it.  Or, if the head is not tightened enough, which is very possible if you have that rubber o-ring between the head and body, it can leak.  As part of my cleaning process, I rub a piece of bees wax on the opening in the body for a little extra insurance of a good seal.

Don

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oldermodelguy

My suggestion then is to coat the mating surface of the nozzle tip to body with a film of bees wax or lip balm and assemble as usual. Also be sure your paint is thinned enough. Any threaded pieces do well with lip balm as both sealer and lube as well. I have a Paasche VL that likes to blow bubbles out the nozzle cap and that's how I seal the threads to it. Also a film of lip balm on the tips mating surface helps it not stick to the body on disassembly. It's just a good general tool and practice I feel.

When my Badger 200 was sputtering and needed a new teflon ring for the head assembly I got by with bees wax on the old ring till the new one came in. It sprayed fine that way. In fact I tried that first to confirm I needed to order the new ring. It was my test and it worked. I see on youtube where guys use gobs of the srtuff to tune up the chinese knock offs, you don't need gobs of it though.

 

A friend loaned me his Sotar to try, at first attempt there was severe bubbling in the cup. Looking close I found a split in the nozzle, I used a bit of bees wax which made a big improvement, just not a full fix, the new part fixed it. I lean toward the 41-003 nozzle being your issue.

If that is not the problem then perhaps the next forward part, 51-071, is not sealing well at the A/B body threads. I've heard that the O ring between the body and that part is not needed, but I use it anyway. You could try some bees wax on those body threads to see if that helps.

How about a good long soak of those three forward parts in some lacquer thinner or acetone, then a gentle wiping to remove residue. I use Badger's "Regdab" lube on all threaded parts, but a vegetable or mineral oil should be OK as well. Worth a trial.

I rebuild A/B's for a large club membership and have a big assortment of new parts, if you want I'll fix and tune your 105 to new condition at zero cost to you, all you'll be out is insured postage. Just PM me for address both ways, if interested.

Patrick

My suggestion then is to coat the mating surface of the nozzle tip to body with a film of bees wax or lip balm and assemble as usual. Also be sure your paint is thinned enough. Any threaded pieces do well with lip balm as both sealer and lube as well. I have a Paasche VL that likes to blow bubbles out the nozzle cap and that's how I seal the threads to it. Also a film of lip balm on the tips mating surface helps it not stick to the body on disassembly. It's just a good general tool and practice I feel.

When my Badger 200 was sputtering and needed a new teflon ring for the head assembly I got by with bees wax on the old ring till the new one came in. It sprayed fine that way. In fact I tried that first to confirm I needed to order the new ring. It was my test and it worked. I see on youtube where guys use gobs of the srtuff to tune up the chinese knock offs, you don't need gobs of it though.

Still cant get my 105 to stop bubbling.  Bought that and an Extreme back during their anniversary sale.  The Extreme is no problem .  But the other is a too bad situation.  Ken says if it sprays water w/o bubbling (which it does) then its ok.

But how to stop the bubbling.  I have a post on here somewhere about it.  Its even been back to be rebuilt and they replaced a tiny metal shaving from the inside.

Still bubbles.... 

My Badger 200 is 57 yo, doesn't seem possible. About 5 years ago I replaced some nozzles and Teflon seal up front. But  not the fine tip or needle which is the one I've mainly used all along. It sprays great, wonderful lacquer airbrush, my finest atomizing airbrush. But now that I'm doing more with acrylics I tend to use one of my two Paasche airbrushed more.

Badger has a lifetime warranty on their brushes.  Labor is free and parts are at a deep discount over the MSRP. Return it to them for service.  If they can't repair it they will likely replace it.  Ken S at Badger is a good guy and has rebuilt several brushes I've received as club donations - often they are just parts in a box.  I'm a satisfied Badger customer

Tanker-Builder

 Binks:

 Yep Binks! in the original clear topped/red bottomed plastic case. Still works perfect, Just don't use it much anymore. I also have an old Badger that is about to go in the round file. 65 and can't get certain parts anymore.

 

I have an old Badger 200 that is 43 years old.  I didn't junk, just didn't use it. I just completely refurbished it.  Works pretty well now, but just did not get tip of needle perfectly straight.