Cleaning spru?

the Baron

 

 

missileman2000

What is the 'sprinkler"?

 

 

 

I saw your comment yesterday, but the answer just hit me now:  it's a typeahead suggestion.  I bet he was on a mobile device, typed "spr" and the machine threw "sprinkler" up.  When you get to typing fast, it's easy to roll right past those.

I hate that typeahead crap.  Hate spell check, too. But it's easy to get used to such feature.

 

I am finally getting used to it  Now, when I see a type-ahead, and it is not what I want, I just keep typing.  If you do, it will ignore the suggestion.  It seems to have the right answer more often now, the more I use it.

missileman2000

What is the 'sprinkler"?

I saw your comment yesterday, but the answer just hit me now:  it's a typeahead suggestion.  I bet he was on a mobile device, typed "spr" and the machine threw "sprinkler" up.  When you get to typing fast, it's easy to roll right past those.

I hate that typeahead crap.  Hate spell check, too. But it's easy to get used to such feature.

It's probably not necessary to wash the sprues before you begin, but it doesn't hurt, either.  A couple of decades ago, mold release agents were a little more persistent, and made it more necessary.  But today, it's not really an issue with injection-molded styrene kits.

With resin kits it might be more necessary, depending on the maker and his process.  You'll get experience with different kits, as you buy and build more. You'll know which kits could really use it.

I do get my styrene and resin kits a wash in an old baking dish, with warm water and a couple drops of SuperClean.  Dishwashing liquid works, too, especially those that advertise a strong grease-fighting formula.  That's the point of washing-to remove grease, and dirt.

Not necessary, but doesn't hurt.

Lots of other good reasons for using lacquer primer too.  All of the other types just sound like a nightmare to use.  

MJY65

I use lacquer primer and paint and don't worry about it.  

 

Exactly 

I use lacquer primer and paint and don't worry about it.  

What is the 'sprinkler"?

It's funny with all the different ways of doing things,I also agree with the "if it ain't broke don't fix it approach",that's why I never wash kits,and it works for me.

I soak mine in undilluted Simple Green, then put them in a fine mesh kitchen strainer to rinse under hot water.  After that they get a brief dunking in a little GladWare container that has 99% Isopropyl alcohol in it, which is more about significantly speeding up the drying process.  Then they sit on a paper towel until dry.  Anything too large to fit in my Simple Green containers for a soak gets a scrub with a comet/water mixture and my cheap electric toothbrush.  I use the electric toothbrush again for the rinse to make sure I chase all of the comet residue out of the recessed areas.  I think surface prep is the most important step in model building.  Better to do too much than not enough, IMHO.  Not gonna ever have to re-do a paintjob because the surface was cleaner than it had to be.  

Eaglecash867;

       Yeah, You pretty much have it down the way I do. I take the smaller parts and put then in a coffee filter(one of those with the fine brass screen) and Wash the parts in a bowl of soapy water while having the security of knowing small parts are NOT going to be digested by the Insinkerator!

I always wash all of my parts.  It might not be necessary depending on year, manufacturer, etc., but its what I have become accustomed to...its an "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of thing for me.  I pretty much never wash entire sprues though.  I do the washing after the parts are removed from the sprue and cleaned of attachment points, parting lines, flash, etc.

HI;

 Since Having suching a dilemna with Model Rail Buildings, built for a friend I am back to washing all my models with Dawn and warm water. I have gotten better Decal adhesion , Glue adhesion and Capillary action and no problems with whatever paint I want to use. Speaking of paint, I got a New Airbrush and Compressor today. OOH, more fun for me.

Doesn't seem to be a problem with any kits that I have built since 98, maybe vintage kits, not sure.I prime with an enamel or lacquer primer,covers a multitude of sins,no adhesion problems at all.

Depends.  If the plastic feels greasy, I wash it prior to assembly.  If it feels squeaky clean, then no.

I do always wash everything right before painting though.

John3M

Years ago I was suggested to that I should clean the sprinkler prior to painting to remove any manufacturing residue or release agents. Is this a common practice?

I did that faithfully for my first decade or so of 'serious' modeling...but haven't seemed to have needed to do it regularly for decades since. My guess is that more modern manufacturing methods and/or lubing of molds has made it largely unnecessary. Even using Tamiya acrylics almost exclusively, I experience very little in adhesion problems with unwashed plastic.

Every once in a great while, a kit will have that 'look' (or feel) that says to wash it, so I'll go ahead and do so. The only thing I always wash these days are clear window parts, just so there's no reaction with the Future I often use to coat them for that 'extra' shine and thin/clear look.

Darn spell check it should say spru