Iwata HP-CS usage question

I started out with an Iwata NEO, then graduated to an Eclipse (HP-CS). But early on with the Eclipse I damaged it. Instead of replacing parts, I took the opportunity to try other airbrushes.

I tried badger, off-brand, Harder and Steenbeck, and a Mr Hobby model that I forgot the name of. I didn't like any of them and now I am back in an Eclipse.

The floating needle seat in the Eclipse is so easy to clean. And the airbrush has been trouble free. I can't help but wonder if your issues are user caused.

How are you disassmbling it?
How are you reassembling it?
What tools are you using to clean it out?

If I paint with a lacquer, between colors I run straight lacquer thinner through it to clean it out. I hold my finger over the tip to back flush it. Then when I am don painting I disassemble and clean thoroughly.

When I disassemble it, I remove the tip, the piece that holds the needle seat, and the needle seat and put them in a small jar of thinner. Then I remove the needle by pressiing it forward from the rear, and removing it from the tip end of the body.

I am very carefull with the needle, setting it on a soft cloth. And when I clean it I only wipe from the back of the needle towards the tip.

Then I am VERY carefull about inserting the needle in through the back of the back of the airbrush body.

And when reassembling the parts in the tip, I only tighten everything hand tight. I never use tools.

I hope this helps.

dazzjazz

Thanks Patrick,

the nozzle damage I get is what looks like wear to one side of the very tip of the nozzle.

my latest damaged nozzle won't let the right length of need through, as far as I can tell. 
I think this results from the common CS problem of having to prise the nozzle from the head cap when cleaning. Don's airbrush page on this airbrush says I can probably just leave it there. However I will try just finger tightening only from now on. 

I will try to post a video later today of what's happening, that might narrow it down. 

 

Darren - I agree with Don's advice to leave the tiny front nozzle bit alone, it's quite easy to clean it in place. With mine, once I have sprayed a few rinse batches through when finished with painting, I then spray lacquer thinner through at least twice, at higher PSI of 25 or so.

Then I pass either the needle, or a toothpick sanded own to a size small enough to protrude past the end of the tiny end nozzle, then very gently work it around a bit while soaked in thinner. It sounds to me that your nozzle end bit has collapsed a bit, and is no longer a round opening.

It's likely of no use to try pushing a needle through with enough force to make the hole round again, I tried it once but all I accomplished was to create a split, once the metal returned to a round shape. Those little bits are really easy to damage, once they are deformed. In your case, the part is already not usable as is, so what's the harm of trying? Do check the part under high magnification, to ensure it didn't split. Easy to find, the split starts at the small end and goes back.

Hope you get it sorted OK.

Patrick

 

Thanks Patrick,

the nozzle damage I get is what looks like wear to one side of the very tip of the nozzle.

my latest damaged nozzle won't let the right length of need through, as far as I can tell. 
I think this results from the common CS problem of having to prise the nozzle from the head cap when cleaning. Don's airbrush page on this airbrush says I can probably just leave it there. However I will try just finger tightening only from now on. 

I will try to post a video later today of what's happening, that might narrow it down. 

Hi, Darren -

I've had my CS for 2 or 3 years, it's seen a LOT of use with a variety of paints/thinners, the parts are all original and in as new condition. When assembling for use following cleaning, I avoid using a wrench on any of the head bits, finger tight only works perfectly well.

When the cleaning is done I use Badger's Regdab lube on all of the head bits, just a light film works. Another good agent is bees wax, or even lip balm, again in small amounts. It's not so much used as a lubricant, rather as a way to prevent the bits from being difficult to separate for individual cleaning after use. Once I have removed the head set as a unit, I soak it for a while in either lacquer thinner or acetone.

Can you describe in more detail the physical damage issue you have encountered? If you have not yet visited "Don's Airbrush Tips" website, you'll find your airbrush listed among many, with detailed info and photos including disassembled parts. You might well find the specific answer to your issues. If you have the time, please let us know how you make out. Good luck with it.

Patrick 

 

I've had mine for several years now and it gets used 95% of the time. I have never had any issue with it on anything. I clean it after every session with what ever the paint cleans with best. When I clean it I first flush it clear, then I pull the needle and end cap. I only finger tighten all the parts always. I use the small airbrush cleaning brushes to scrub out the barrel just to loosen and paint that backed up passed the packing. I flush it out again, reasseble and blow some disstilled water though it, dry it and put it up.

As far as pressure, I am usually painting at the lowest pressure I can get the paint to spray will at. Seldom do I ever get over 20 psi, usually far less. The tips are easily damaged and when they are they are junk. To get good spray the needle and tip must be perfect, or near it. Not sure this helps, but good luck.

BK