Which Air Brush ??

I use a Paasche VL, and a Iwata Neo.  I like Paasche for its simple but rugged design (I have dropped it once or twice).  I've had good customer service from Paasche, too.  And I can get parts and supplies at local shops, as well as by ordering direct from Paasche.

I like the Neo because it's a gravity-fed brush, with the cup in the centerline.  That's the one thing I don't like about my Paasche-it's siphon-fed, and the cup dresses to the left or the right (just like....well, you can guess).  I want to hold the brush like a pen, but the cup is in the way.  Not a major issue, but that's what made me track down a centerline, gravity-fed brush.

By the way, your handle suggests that you're in Pennsylvania. Is that so?  If so, whereabouts? I'm in Bethlehem. We have a local club here.

Yes that is a lot of thinner. I guess it's because my MM enamels are several years old and kinda thick and goopy. Also because I was having trouble getting a nice smoth flow through my airbrush, which is probably my fault not the airbrush's.

The panel line post shading with Tam gray acrylic thinned with IPA worked great. At 15-20 psi, I was able to do what I wanted on the very first try. I don't think I'll need to do any preshading on my future builds. The same technique also worked for soot stains at the cannon muzzles.

For fluid leaks that look misted and sprayed in the direction of airflow, post shading with Tam black acrylic thinned with IPA worked great. But I got the same effect for less effort using Tam weathering master makeup style kit. Idk about exhaust stains, didn't get to try it since Me-262 is not a psiton engine fighter.

I have some MM lacquer dullcote. I brushed it onto a painted test piece and it seemed to melt the enamel finish even though it had a future coat. Maybe if misted on with airbrush it would be OK. But I ordered some Tam X21 flat clear, gonna thin it with future and mist it on. After testing it of course.

Eaglecash867

 

 

oldermodelguy

 

 

Eaglecash867

I'm definitely partial to my Paasche H.  I've used it so much, for so long, I haven't come up against anything so far that I couldn't get done with it.  Its all in what you get used to I guess.  Not much fuss and maintenance on it either, since its an external mix single-action.  Push the button...it shoots...every time.

 

 

 

 

I've had an H for 10 years or so, added that to my much older Badger 200 when I was upgrading some things on the 200. The H is fine, I use it a lot. For a while I got to liking it so I was using it exclusively like you. I didn't buy the VL for models but now that I have it I'm finding myself liking it for model. I still prime with H but mostly otherwise it varnishes my wife's canvas paintings. I don't really need 4 airbrushes but ended up with them.

 

 

 

 

You'll get lots more life out of that H for sure.  I saved up and bought mine before I could legally drive, and I'm 52 now.  Just have to replace the needle, cap, and color cups every 5 or 6 years or so, and those are cheap.  I don't think I have ever replaced any of the other parts in it.  Definitely a real workhorse.

 

I would think nothing of painting a whole build with the H if that's the only brush I had. It works very well and easy to clean. I can say the same of the Badger 200 as I used only it for decades. And I can say the same of the Paasche VL. But since I have them all I've assigned each to it's own duty. The H for priming, clear coating and varnishes for models and the wifes art works.. The VL for lacquer primer if not using Stynylrez which goes in the H. And for color coating. The 200 is an exclusive lacquer brush now with it's super nice atomizing .25 tip on it.

The VL I actually got to shoot Createx paint for Christian T Shirt art. But since we switched to inkjet transfers and also Cricut lettering and heat pressing vinyl, I got the fine needle for the VL and now use it for models. It's just how things went down.

I'll add to the comment about not taking your airbrush apart after every color to clean it out.

I try to shoot lighter colors to darker colors. And in between colors I run straight thinner through my airbrush to clean it out. I also put my finger over the tip to block the air and paint which sends the paint back up through the cup and does a great job at backflushing your airbrush. Do this a couple times and then you should be all cleaned out and ready for the next color.

Some people will poo poo the technique claiming that you will blow out seals if you cover the tip.  I don't buy that.  Air always takes the path of least resistance. Which way is easier? Through a seal designed to stop blowby? Or out through a cup with nothing to stop you?

I have been backflushing for years and not had any problems. And it has saved me so much time. Because I used to disassemble after every color.

burrito king

I should have been more specific, I meant 5 parts thinner to 1 part enamel. I have seen many different ratios in forums and videos. By trial and error I found the 5:1 to work OK. When I mix a cup, I shoot a couple of test shots on scrap before actually shooting the model.

Thanks for the tips! I was afraid the LT might be too "hot" for the plastic surface, but based on your recommendation I will give it a try. I will also try the blend of paint thinner and mineral spirits. I have found the best way to learn is to experiment and practice.

 

All I can say to that is that's a lot of thinner. Otherwise I've stated what I have to say in the other post.

I should have been more specific, I meant 5 parts thinner to 1 part enamel. I have seen many different ratios in forums and videos. By trial and error I found the 5:1 to work OK. When I mix a cup, I shoot a couple of test shots on scrap before actually shooting the model.

Thanks for the tips! I was afraid the LT might be too "hot" for the plastic surface, but based on your recommendation I will give it a try. I will also try the blend of paint thinner and mineral spirits. I have found the best way to learn is to experiment and practice.

burrito king

 

1. I am using my last remaining Model Master enamels.  A 5:1 ratio of thinner to paint seems to work for me.  Thinned paint flows better, goes on smoother, has less tip drying, and cleans up easier.

2. Testor's airbrush thinner workes great, but is expensive.  I am using Home Depot paint thinner and it seems to work well.

3. Home Depot lacquer thinner works well for cleaning.

4. Air pressure should be around 20 psi.  For painting fine details like camouflage squiggles, I experimented with lower air pressure but could not get consistent paint flow.  I am sure it is bad technique on my part.  20 psi gave me the best result, but sometimes I have problems with spatter.

 

Are you sure of what you wrote about 5/1 ratio ? Or I should say I'm unsure. It sounds like you're writing 5 parts thinner to 1 part paint but then you go on to say you get spatter at times. This would indicate to me 5 parts paint to 1 thinner. If indeed it's 5 parts paint, may I suggest that's not enough thinner in your enamel. Anywhere 3/1 (3 parts paint, 1 thinner) to even a 50/50 mix with some colors works great with testors enamel .. Actually 3/1 is kind of a standard starting point for enamel even in painting full scale.

You said you bought paint thinner. To me this can flow a bit much, the lacquer thinner actually works better as thinner. And for gloss paints you will get no better gloss and glass like finish than you will with the LT. Also what works nice is equal parts paint thinner and mineral spirits then thin the paint 3/1 paint to that thinner blend. 5/3 works well too. If you're shooting all flat colors the mineral spirits alone would be fine @ 5/3.

I shot a 1/16 scale rear axle in testors yellow mixed 5/3 with hardware store LT. When dry I could see my dining room ceiling lights in it. It was shot over Stynylrez primer.

Anyway some things to experiment with, suggestions is all.

I am also new to airbrushing, I recently got a Badger Arrow 105 for $75 from Amazon.  It is the same as the popular Patriot 105 but it has a smaller paint cup.  So far it is working well, the main problem is my lack of skill and experience.  From everything I have read on forums and seen in videos, you cannot go wrong with the 105.

I am using the 105 for a Me-262 with overal green and brown camouflage on top, blue-white on the bottom, and mottled green and brown squiggles on the sides.  Probably not the best choice for a beginning airbrusher!  The main hint I can give is practice, practice, practice!  Here is a list of other random beginner stuff I learned, I hope you find it helpful.

1. I am using my last remaining Model Master enamels.  A 5:1 ratio of thinner to paint seems to work for me.  Thinned paint flows better, goes on smoother, has less tip drying, and cleans up easier.

2. Testor's airbrush thinner workes great, but is expensive.  I am using Home Depot paint thinner and it seems to work well.

3. Home Depot lacquer thinner works well for cleaning.

4. Air pressure should be around 20 psi.  For painting fine details like camouflage squiggles, I experimented with lower air pressure but could not get consistent paint flow.  I am sure it is bad technique on my part.  20 psi gave me the best result, but sometimes I have problems with spatter.

5. One of my main problems is controlling the dual action trigger.  I try to get a gradual smooth start to the paint flow, but I usually move the trigger too little, then move it too far and get too much paint.  I can do it better on a piece of scrap plastic, but when I do the actual model, I get nervous and screw up.

6. The 105 is easy to clean and disassemble, but be careful.  I already lost the plunger spring.  I got a fast and cheap replacement spring from Spray Gunner.

7. Pipettes are very handy for dispensing paint and thinner into your cup.  They are also handy for cleaning the cup, needle, and nozzle.  I fill the cup halfway with laquer thinner, then use the pipette to suck, spray and swirl it repeatedly in the cup and needle area while using the trigger to move the needle back and forth.  Spray the thinner out of the brush and repeat as necessary.  I got several hundred disposable plastic pipettes from Amazon, each one lasts for one or two paint sessions.

8. I don't disassemble the brush after each session.  I use the cleaning method described above, then remove the needle and wipe it clean.  Then I put the needle back in but not all the way.  I gently tighten the needle chuck and put the brush back in the box.  Seems to be good so far.

9. A paint mask is important, especially when spraying a lot of lacquer thinner during cleaning.

10. It wasn't easy, but I finally got the overall paint scheme done.  My next airbrush step is post shading of the panel lines.  I am going to try Tamiya gray acrylic highly thinned with IPA, probably at 15 psi.  The goal is to make it so thin I'll need two or three passes just to start seeing it.  I am also going to try this technique for faint fluid stains, oil sprayed and misted in the wind, etc.  But i have some Taniya Weathering Master makeup kits ready just in case my airbrush skills are not up to the task.

oldermodelguy

 

 

Eaglecash867

I'm definitely partial to my Paasche H.  I've used it so much, for so long, I haven't come up against anything so far that I couldn't get done with it.  Its all in what you get used to I guess.  Not much fuss and maintenance on it either, since its an external mix single-action.  Push the button...it shoots...every time.

 

 

 

 

I've had an H for 10 years or so, added that to my much older Badger 200 when I was upgrading some things on the 200. The H is fine, I use it a lot. For a while I got to liking it so I was using it exclusively like you. I didn't buy the VL for models but now that I have it I'm finding myself liking it for model. I still prime with H but mostly otherwise it varnishes my wife's canvas paintings. I don't really need 4 airbrushes but ended up with them.

 

You'll get lots more life out of that H for sure.  I saved up and bought mine before I could legally drive, and I'm 52 now.  Just have to replace the needle, cap, and color cups every 5 or 6 years or so, and those are cheap.  I don't think I have ever replaced any of the other parts in it.  Definitely a real workhorse.

The Aztek was the one airbrush I also didn't like.  It felt too light, kind of cheapie.  But like GM said, cleaning was the deal breaker.  I quickly killed a bunch of those pen nib-like tip inserts, as I just could not clean them.

I will soon be switching from my trusty Badger 200 single action to an Iwata HP-C double-action.  I have had the Iwata for maybe 20 years, and only used it a few times.  The braided hose while looking spotless needs to be replaced because the rubber got hard from age.

But my horribly stained and faded Badger air hose is supple like a well-worn leather jacket.

So yeah, if you stick with modeling for the long haul, don't skimp on the airbrush.  Get a good quality unit and it will last you a lifetime.

One I did not like, although I hear people do so it's probably just me.

Aztek. The spring is in the paint path which makes cleaning a chore. 

Air brush is like a chef knife. Whatever feels right in the hand.

Bill

Eaglecash867

I'm definitely partial to my Paasche H.  I've used it so much, for so long, I haven't come up against anything so far that I couldn't get done with it.  Its all in what you get used to I guess.  Not much fuss and maintenance on it either, since its an external mix single-action.  Push the button...it shoots...every time.

 

I've had an H for 10 years or so, added that to my much older Badger 200 when I was upgrading some things on the 200. The H is fine, I use it a lot. For a while I got to liking it so I was using it exclusively like you. I didn't buy the VL for models but now that I have it I'm finding myself liking it for model. I still prime with H but mostly otherwise it varnishes my wife's canvas paintings. I don't really need 4 airbrushes but ended up with them.

I'm with Eagle.  I use my Paasche H for 99% of what I build.  I do have and am learning to use a krome double action brush and appreciate the unique things you can do - mottling on my bf-109.  But so far I'm kinda inconsistant and strugle with cleaning and proper function - no doubt all user error.

I'm definitely partial to my Paasche H.  I've used it so much, for so long, I haven't come up against anything so far that I couldn't get done with it.  Its all in what you get used to I guess.  Not much fuss and maintenance on it either, since its an external mix single-action.  Push the button...it shoots...every time.

The Paasche VL has the drop in tips as well. So does the Badger 105, I believe 150 and 155. So does  the 200NH ( not to be confused with the old style 200). Both the Badger older 100 and 200 have screw in tips but you unscrew the entire cone so it's a meaty part to get ahold of.

I have one of those airbrushes with the obnoxiously mini tips as well. I really dislike that design. The VL drop ins have substance to them.

Everyone has their brand.  I have purchased 5 or 6 different airbrushes over the years because I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. So I might have some input here.

I started off with an Iwata NEO because you can buy one with a mini compressor as a set at Hobby Lobby for well under $100. It is everything you need to get started.

I grew tired of having to unscrew that teeny little needle seat to clean it out, so I bought an Iwata Eclipse. The Eclipse has a floating needle seat design, so no tools are required to do basic cleanings.  You can take it apart and reassemble by hand. And the larger floating seat is easier to deal with and clean.

While I had the Eclipse I got some really good deals on a Badger and Pasche airbrush, so I tried them out.  They were both excellent airbrushes like the Eclipse, but they both had that annoying little needle seat that required a tool to remove and clean out. So I quickly stopped using them.

Then my Eclipse broke. I dropped it while it was partially disassembled and damaged it. So I took this opportunity to try out a Harder and Steenbeck airbrush. The H&S airbrush has a floating needle seat, but it is a different style that relies on a gasket to seal inseat of a tapered, pressed in seat like the Eclipse. So it was a nice airbrush, and easy to clean.  But I went through 2 seats in 6 months. So I stopped using it.

I am back in an Iwata Eclipse and to me, it is the best airbrush you can buy. It works very well, and it is super easy to clean. I love it.

And the best part. I found a cheap Chinese knockoff of the Eclipse. It is available on Amazon for only $30. So I ordered up one fo them to see how it stacks up against the real thing. Based on how it performs, I'll probably start a post about it. 

My latest addition is the Paasche VL kit with metal side cup included. I like those side cups for smaller work, I have one for the Paasche H and Badger 200 as well. This gives you a mid point between gravity and suction feed, easy cleaning. The VL is very easy to clean anyway, mostly a series of heavy back flushes. But those metal cups are all I've used in my many many test shoots with acrylic paints I've written about in forums over the last 8 years or so.

But the VL is my latest color coat airbrush for models using the smaller needle. For T shirt work I install the larger needle. For varnishing my wifes canvas paintings I use the Paasche H with 1.0 tip or an automotive LVLP touch up gun with 1.10 tip and fan cap... Sometimes I just spray can them though. I use the H for priming models as well but cut the paint flow way back. Or change the tip to the mid size tip.

Even after 50 years with the Badger 200, I still like that brush best for lacquers, though I will say I don't spray much lacquer these days..

All great ideas and advice, those above.

1) Spend some time at "Don's Airbrush Tips" website, a world of expert airbrush experience and recommendations there, to include use, maintenance, parts replacement, etc.

2) Buy the best airbrush FOR YOU, and that you can afford, the first time. An inferior and poor performing airbrush will be frustrating and not lead to satisfactory results. The Badger 105 mentioned is a great choice, small, medium and large needle nozzles available, inexpensive, durable and a fine performer. 

Since you're just beginning the search, it will be well worth taking the time to have a good long look at the choices available. About 60 years ago I started airbrushing with Binks, Badger and Paasche single action models, they served me well and I still have and use a few of them today. But when I finally went to double action and got proficient using them, it was an all new ball game. 

My most used today are the Badger 100G, 105, 200G, Sotar and Paasche VJR, all of them have their own use and that's really all I'll ever need.

Good luck with your search.

Patrick

"Everyone likes their own brand."  It's true for airbrushes as well.  I got a Badger 200 single-action model back around 1980.  Badger was the most readily available brand where I live, so it was a natural choice.  Paasche was also around, but the choices were not as great as Badger.  And the stores carried mostly Badger spare parts.

If you are a beginner, airbrushing may look intimidating.  A single-action model will be easier to master, but a double-action model will be desirable once you get good at it.  Some people can master the double-action models quickly. but it has taken me 40 years to finally admit it's the way to go.

But even with a single-action airbrush, you can mix custom colors and get a better finish compared to brushing or spray cans.  And with a little bit of effort, you can do a lot of stuff a double-action model can do.  But just not as efficiently.

I agree with Tojo. And Don's site saves us a lot of thought and typing. Once you get down to some choices in types, brands etc then ask the questions on those items.

It's  worth buying one that you'll keep forever, even if you upgrade.

My work horse is a Badger Patriot 105. It's reliable, easy to clean, and feels right in the hand.

You should be able to find one at discount for about $ 70 - $ 80.

Bill

Check here for ideas

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/