The Airbrush Gods don't like me. . .

Relax, some things like airbrushing take time.  You just need to keep at it to find your "rhythm".

I started with a cheapy $10 external mix airbrush that came in a blister pack, hanging on the pegboard rack at my LHS.  I initially used it to spray single colors, which it was okay for.  It went a long way to giving me an idea of how to thin paints and most important of all, how to clean the airbrush after use.  But as soon as I attempted to do multiple color camouflage I ran into the limitations of the airbrush. 

So a friend and I pooled our money together and bought a $42 Badger 200 single action airbrush, and the difference was night and day.  It did take a couple of years to get really comfortable with it, and it has been my go-to airbrush for over 40 years.

I'm not sure if you have a single or double action airbrush, but the double action requires a bit more dexterity because you have to regulate air pressure and paint volume at the same time.  I'm a slow learner, so I never got used to a double action airbrush.  But a double action airbrush will allow you to do more and better things than a single action.

I decided only now to make the switch.  Although I'm left handed, I airbrush with my right.  Which is a good thing, as my left hand index finger has started to lock up due to age/health reasons.

Anyway, keep it up and don't be discouraged by early difficulties!

Thanks. . .I have a double-action "Masters" airbrush from Amazon. 

KeithRob

Thanks. . .I have a double-action "Masters" airbrush from Amazon. 

 

Ah OK so yeah, the learning curve is steeper compared to a single action.

BTW my golf game is most certainly worse than yours.  A friend from Japan who tried to teach me said "Neeru-san, in gorufu, it's not like base-u-boru.  You no get 3 strikes." 

Well the usual questions apply as to how you're going about this .

What airbrush and tip size are you using ?

Do you have sufficient air supply to it ?

What paint, brand and type ?

What thinner and how much ?

As to me starting out airbrushing, back then was all lacquer and enamels. It was pretty much a no brainer once I got the hang of thinning in airbrush proportions vs spray guns. I started with Testors and Pactra enamels and Floquil lacquers. Very easy to work with. I converted a propane tank to air as a portable air tank. I still have that around here in fact some 50 years later, though I don't use it. But ya, that was my start and with a Badger beginner airbrush I used for a year or so when I was gifted with a complete Badger 200 set that I also still have today. I use that and a pair of Paasche airbrushes for all my spraying from art work to models. I use acrylics, some enamels and Tamiya LP lacquers. With models I also use craft paints quite a bit and Tamiya acrylic or even better their LP Lacquer. Though I do decant some enamels still too. Depends on my mood, inventory, time of year and maybe how the planets align for all I know.  In art work and some models too I use Createx. So that's it for me but the question remains, what are you doing and using ?

HA!     thanks

I use a Master Airbrush with a needle size of .3  

Air supply I think is fine. . . I keep it around 20-25 psi

Usually use Tamiya acrylic  paints but also have Vallejo and Mig on hand

Thinner varies. . .I try mixing in a cup to get the "Skim milk" appearance.

Hey KeithRob.  Since the question is open ended my input is very generic.

Personally, I just started using an airbrush about two years ago and I'm still learning how to work with it.  As with any skill, fluency comes with practice, and time.  Lots of time.

If you haven't seen them yet Aaron Skinner did a great introductory video series called Airbrushing with Aaron.  I found them to be very helpful when I was just starting.  They helped me avoid some beginner challenges and learn how to fix others I hadn't.

https://finescale.com/search?q=airbrushing+with+Aaron

To help build comfort and familiarity with your airbrush there's also a practice exercise I read about somewhere.  I found it very helpful.  It's boring, repetitive, and a pain to do, but it helped me learn my airbrush without having to practice on a model.

You just need some scrap cardboard (glossy side of cereal boxes works great as simulated plastic), a ruler, and a marker.

On the cardboard draw out a grid of 12 dots that are about 1" apart from each other.  I'd suggest prepping two or three of these grids ahead of time.

Then starting horizontally use your airbrush to connect the dots.  Focus on keeping your distance from the cardboard consistent along with the amount of paint coming out, and your line as straight as possible.  It's a lot to keep track of.

Once all the horizontal lines are done start connecting them vertically.

When you're done you should have a grid of 1" squares.

Repeat this with the other two grids you prepped.

If you can make it through doing this exercise a few of times, by the end you should be rewarded with the sight of nicer looking squares.  Along wit greater confidence in the control of your airbrush.

I still do that exercise every now and then to keep me honest.

Regarding the airbrush your using.  I recently ordered a Master airbrush from Amazon as well.  It's my second airbrush. The Master airbrush isn't a bad brush.  It lays down paint well and I mostly use it for priming my models.  It could just be the one I got, but I find it takes more force to operate than my Iwata Neo CN. 

In comparison my Iwata is practically effortless to operate.  The extra effort it takes to work the Master may impact consistency as well.  The more tense we are, the more fine motor control lost.

And if possible, I'd highly recommend choosing one paint manufacturer to airbrush with.  At least to start.  There are so many differences in how each paint works that it makes it hard to tell what problems may be due to technique and what are due to changes in the paint's properties.  Getting familiar with one paint means when trying a new one, it can be a little easier to figure out where the problem may be.

Apologies for the long winded response.  Hopefully a little bit of it is useful.  Good luck and happy airbrushing!

KeithRob

Usually use Tamiya acrylic  paints but also have Vallejo and Mig on hand

Ok, I can clearly see where you might spray great one day and have problems the next day when you mention the paints.

Your airbrush and air pressure are fine. Some people like to stay in the 15-20 psi range, but 20-25 is fine unless you are trying to get up close and do detail work, then you will want to dial the pressure down a bit.

Now your paint.

Tamiya is super easy and forgiving. You literally can't screw it up. Thin it 1:1 with either Tamiya Acrylic thinner, or Mr Hobby Mr Leveling Thinner. Either work very well.

Hell, for the longest time I even used water to thin Tamiya acrylic paints, but that doesn't always give you good results. And one time I forgot to thin the Tamiya acrylic paint at all. I just put it in the airbrush and it worked, but it was a little sputtery.

What I am getting at is Tamiya will easily give you great results.

Now Vallejo. If you did not buy the bottles that say "AIRBRUSH" on them, you bought their thicker brush on paints. And with Vallejo you can't just thin them out. You need to use their thinner and their flow improver. If you do not use their flow improver the paint will dry too fast and clog your airbrush every time.

I have never used AK, but I am going to venture a guess that it works similar to Vallejo. I could be wrong though.

I hope this helps.

KeithRob

I use a Master Airbrush with a needle size of .3  

Air supply I think is fine. . . I keep it around 20-25 psi

Usually use Tamiya acrylic  paints but also have Vallejo and Mig on hand

Thinner varies. . .I try mixing in a cup to get the "Skim milk" appearance.

 

To check if your air supply is sufficient, hook up your airbrush, set your pressure and press the the brush button to flow air. You will see a drop in pressure, usually 1-2 lb drop. but whatever the drop is that's your working pressure and it should hold steady as long as you are flowing air through the airbrush. If it keeps dropping off or the guage needle is pulsating then you have a problem with air supply to sort out.

Someone else addressed thinning Tamiya acrylic, equal parts paint to thinner. Also mentioning the thinners to use. I'll just add that with flat colors you can also use isopropyl alcohol 91%, from the drug store.

Now here is a hitching point. Don't let your Vallejo paints ever follow behind the Tamiya and make contact with the Tamiya residue inside the airbrush. Or the alcohol, or with Tamiya thinner. That's a well known incompatibility issue.

I've never used the other paint you mentioned but I have zero issues with Tamiya acrylic, Vallejo Model Air or even Vallejo Model color. I personally use Mr Leveling thinner or otherwise lacquer thinner in the Tamiya acrylic. And I make my own thinner for Vallejo but you can use their brand and plenty of flow aid. Some folks even like straight Vallejo flow aid as their thinner of choice for Vallejo paints. It's just not what I do personally.

You might check out forum member Don Wheeler's airbrush site, specifically the 'spray tests' he does -- mostly on paper -- testing his various brushes. It's a great way to build up experience with your AB's settings and 'feel.'

Cheers

gregbale

You might check out forum member Don Wheeler's airbrush site, specifically the 'spray tests' he does -- mostly on paper -- testing his various brushes. It's a great way to build up experience with your AB's settings and 'feel.'

Cheers

 

on the paper thing.  Each time i go to start airbrushing something, I have a pad of Post-Its that I use to make sure I have a good pattern and good atomization.  Keeps me from getting bitten by some random anomaly that I didn't see.  If something is wrong, I instantly see it, before it ever gets near the model.  Once I fill up a Post-It with multiple airbrush tests, I just peel that sheet off and start with a fresh one.

With acrylics I have a white plastic container lid I shoot onto, then just rinse it off with water and it's ready for the next pattern check. Paper is fine for art work but too forgiving, IMO, if you're painting onto a hard surface. The plastic shows all. But that's just me.

I've worked with lacquers and enamels for so many decades that I can see just by how it comes out of the airbrush if all is well. My materials used and amounts in ratio are fixed so there is no variation from shoot to shoot there ( unless someone changed a paint formula lol). If it comes out of the gun in a nice fan or cone shape then all will be well.

Keith

I am a former professional airbrush artist. I use to work for my uncle's print company doing repair work. He would hire people with no airbrush experience and get them ready in a day. I remember once he told me, he hates hiring "Modelers" because they over complicate the simpliest thing like airbrushing.

Airbrushing isn't hard at all. If you understand the 3 componments of airbrushing (thinning your paint, PSI, temperature). It is like using a pencil. It will become muscle memory.

If you tell me what paints your using, what your normal PSI is, what the temp/humidity is like in your area....I am happy to give guide you.