AK Xtreme Metal Paint Not Curing?

I've never heard of Jumpwind but am glad it works for you.

No problem.  Glad the Jumpwind worked so well for you.  Finding products that work that well is a very good thing.  

Oh sorry, my mistake...someone told me it was acrylic and recommended Jumpwind.

I may be misunderstanding your post, but MRP isn't acrylic, it's a lacquer.  

Quick update...I waited another 10 days but the paint was still sticky so I gave up and stripped the paint off...ugh, what a hassle.

I wanted a real metal look but some modeler friends of mine said it's difficult to get that look using acrylics...nothing against MRP and others.

They recommended JumpWind Prime Metal paint. Just to be sure I read some online reviews and watched some videos before committing.

It's a lacquer-based paint so I had to wear a respirator. It sprayed on smooth as butter, dried very quickly and has a high metallic sheen.

There could have been several different factors why the AK XTreme Metal paint wouldn't dry but I'm very happy with the results of this JumpWind Prime Metal paint.

Thanks again to everyone for your suggestions and tips!!

mllattanzi

That looks great. I haven't seen any MRP model paint in my local hobby store but I'll search online to see if anyone has a decent price. Thanks!

Sprue Brothers carries the full MRP line.  Also a little pricey, but no more so than Alclad, and the amount of time and BS they save you when painting is well worth the extra money.

mllattanzi

Well I took your advice and put it in the dehydrator for another 6hrs at 108 degrees...twice. Still sticky, in fact it feels even stickier now.

Guess I have no choice but to strip off the paint and start over...ugh.

I appreciate all the help anyway, thank you!!

Yes, sounds like you've done about all you can. Bummer.

Mr Metal Color paints, as far as I know can be bought at Spraygunner online. They're lacquers and fairly inexpensive. Just sayin. I'm sure there are other outlets as well, but that's one at least.

Eaglecash867

 

MRP makes good metallic paints if you're not against using a lacquer.  No thinning, cure in less than an hour, and they're very durable.  The only drawback with them in comparison to Alclad is that they don't have quite as wide a selection of metallic finishes.  But, they also have some that Alclad doesn't have, like a straight Titanium finish.  Love that one...used it on the tail of my F-4B and it came out looking like the real thing.  Haven't had a "bad batch" of MRP paint yet, so I use it for pretty much everything now.

That looks great. I haven't seen any MRP model paint in my local hobby store but I'll search online to see if anyone has a decent price.

Thanks!

Well I took your advice and put it in the dehydrator for another 6hrs at 108 degrees...twice. Still sticky, in fact it feels even stickier now.

Guess I have no choice but to strip off the paint and start over...ugh.

I appreciate all the help anyway, thank you!!

Just as a point of interest, I'd stick those parts back in the dehydrator for another 4-6 hours.

Anyway, I think Mr has a line of metal colors. I also think you're going to be best served with lacquers. I still have remnents of Model Master Metalizer I'm nursing along with. Then I'll be in your boat, looking for replacements.

I've seen reviews of Vallejo metal colors that went pretty well, except fo the aluminum plate and chrome, to which in both cases another color in the lineup covered for those. Not to mention for chrome, I use Molotow. The problem I saw is nothing covers the MM buffing paints. And as far as I know, nothing does from any brand.

mllattanzi

Anyone have other suggestions for realistic metal finishes besides Alclad?

MRP makes good metallic paints if you're not against using a lacquer.  No thinning, cure in less than an hour, and they're very durable.  The only drawback with them in comparison to Alclad is that they don't have quite as wide a selection of metallic finishes.  But, they also have some that Alclad doesn't have, like a straight Titanium finish.  Love that one...used it on the tail of my F-4B and it came out looking like the real thing.  Haven't had a "bad batch" of MRP paint yet, so I use it for pretty much everything now.

That's disappointing, I thought this AK Xtreme metal paint was going to be great. I'll wait a few more days and then decide to strip it off or not.

Anyone have other suggestions for realistic metal finishes besides Alclad?

I used AK three different XTreme Metal paints on my Pegasus model of the submarine Nautilus of 20,000 Leaves Under the Sea fame. After six months or more, it's still very — VERY! — slightly tacky feeling, and a lot of the paint has come off with handling, which it's had a lot of. It's been a difficult build, at least for me. But at least the failure of the paint to dry thoroughly has actually resulted in "natural weathering" 

Bob

Quick update...I put the main body and a few smaller parts in the dehydrator for 6 hours, set the temp to 108 degrees. All the parts were sticky when I removed them 6 hours later. It almost felt like the dehydrator reactivated the paint for some reason.

I decided to let them sit for a few days to see what happens. I was excited to see the smaller parts fully dried but there were still a few areas on the main body that are sticky...UGH!

I have a busy work schedule this week and wont have time to do any modeling so I'm going to let everything sit and cure all week. 

Hoping and praying those final few areas on the body will dry/cure.

mllattanzi

Thanks for the insight, I'll try it out and let you know how it goes.

 

It will be interesting to hear what you get from it !

Thanks for the insight, I'll try it out and let you know how it goes.

I dehydrate all my color and or clear coats on model paint jobs. Full cure with enamels takes between 6-10 hours @ 108-110f. If it's going to cure that is, if you have a bad batch it may be incapable of curing. Also you have a head start, you may see results in 4-6 hours. Again, if there is to be a cure.

I don't know the style dehydrator you have there. Mine is cabinet style with full temp control. Some little dehydrators don't have the temp control and run too hot. So guys have taken a meat thermometer, put it in there, then drill vent holes till the temp is a nominal 105f or so. And they go on dehydrating paint jobs just as happy as I am.

We have guys here who have built there own dehydrators using simple items and a light bulb for heat. They're happy too.

I've heard of other modelers using a food dehydrator to help speed up the drying times for enamels. Fortunately my wife has one she doesn't use very often.

I think this AK Xtreme metal paint is enamel-base, right? If yes, do you think that would be worth trying out in this tacky metallic paint situation?

I haven't used a dehydrator before so would appreciate if someone has any advice on how to use one.

Honestly, it's enamel. And people can say as they wish about enamels about so called fast drying but I've rarely found that to be the case. At least in the true sense of the word dry. Ya it might be dry to the touch quickly but true cure down the base below is usually weeks. Give it a few more days and see if it's coming along to the touch. Then review your situation, is my suggestion. If it remains soft, then you will need to strip it. There are various methods, from the alcohol approach already mentioned, to the so called purple pond, which is how I've stripped paint from models in the past. Old fashion automotive brake fluid used to do it with fresh paint but I have no idea about the modern stuff out today. The gel formula drano strips model chrome, I imagine it would strip fresh enamel and take a few stray hairs out of your plumbing with what's left over. lol !

I always use 99% isopropyl alcohol and a cheap electric toothbrush to strip paint.

Thanks for the advice! What do I have to do now...strip off all the paint and start over?

If yes, I'm not sure which paint stripper to use - enamel thinner?

As for your 1st question,I never used the stuff.

2nd question,that's probably not gonna work

There are a whole host of reasons for me to say, probably not or even, just don't, or I wouldn't do that. And I'll leave it at that.

I have no idea if this bottle is part of the bad batch, I literally bought it a few weeks ago from an online hobby store.

My question now is...would it be ok if I spray a clear coat over the Xtreme metal coat even if that metal coat still has some small sticky/tacky areas?

There has been faulty batches. Listen to this reviewer ( he's a professional painter and builder of models). Anyway, here is the link: https://youtu.be/l1Q8V7dXVss