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Heck, I even use the permanent magic markers....... but not on a whole model.
Just have to know how to work with'em.
As metal as BMF is, I mean it's real metal and should look great. But something in my operation gives me a more convincing appearance using Molotow. I think it comes down to my trimming of the foil. I've been painting in chrome for 60 years, using whatever kind of paints, now pens. But trimming foil I'm no master of. At 74, I find myself backing off on getting every little detail nailed. Molotow is quite chrome looking and easy enough. But you do need to keep your hands off of it or it just turns to silver paint in appearance. I've found no clear coat that maintains that metal look, so for me it's best to leave it raw.
There is also one craft paint, when used with the right brush, gets a look very close to that brighness of Molotow. And it's a bit more robust in handling. Which one it is slips my mind at the moment ( we have probably 125 craft paint bottles around here, not to mention artist paint tubes lol] !
I have seen success soaking Molotov tips in isopropyl alcohol to clean them.
Tanker-Builder Hi! You're right about that. I will only use the Molotow for touch-ups because I had an almost new one(Long enough I couldn't do a return) gum up on me. So, Foil Chrome it is!
Hi!
You're right about that. I will only use the Molotow for touch-ups because I had an almost new one(Long enough I couldn't do a return) gum up on me. So, Foil Chrome it is!
BMF Chrome is what I use as well. I don't even build cars very often, so my first use of it for window frames was just this year, on my Boss 351 project. I loved how it looked, and it was so much easier to use than those pens. For touch-ups, I have found that Testors square bottle Metallic Silver looks just as good as those pens on small areas...and the other good thing about it is that I know exactly what kind of paint it is and how to remove it if I need to without damaging the paint underneath it. I also mask and airbrush with ALC-107 when the situation calls for it (did its Magnum 500 wheels that way because the kit chrome is always too bright and makes it look like a toy). That being said, I did try a Bronze Sharpie Metallic Marker on the pushrods for one set of cylinders on a BMW 801 radial, and that looked so much better as "brass" than the Testors square bottle brass paint I had used on the other set of cylinders. Don't know what's in it, but it didn't seem to attack the paint underneath it, so I'm sold...for that purpose anyway.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
I roll my Molotow nice and tight inside a kitchen zip lock baggy, before I zip it shut. That way I get the air out and away from the tip. The same pen last I knew was still working after 3 years or so. Last time I used it was last winter.
I only use paint pens/markers for small details as well. I don't think it would be possible to get a smooth enough finish on anything much bigger than a knob or radial engine push rod. As TB said, flow control is a real problem with pens and markers. I won't even use the Molotow chrome pens for window frames on cars because of that issue.
Hi Martyhh!
I have to confess. I never thought paint pens would be good for that! Even with the better brands my experience with them has been half-Assed at best.They have started skipping or the paint would not come out in a consistant flow! So, I only use them for detail spot work!
I'm editing my original post to this: It's not practical.
Never thought about that,for me,there's no reason for me to do that,I use them for small detaing
I was wondering if anyone has experience in using acrylic paint pens or markers to paint a whole model, for example an airplane. And are there any particular good brands? Thanks.
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