Thinning paint

John, that sounds fine to me. If the paint is flowing properly through your airbrush, and you are getting the coverage that you want then that's what counts.

The actual ratio depends on type of paint, type of airbrush, and how you paint. For example, if the paint has been left open in the bottle, you might have to thin it a little more than normal because some of the solvent will have evaporated making it a little thicker. Some metallic paints are pretty thick and others are pretty thin right from the bottle so you might have to adjust some in cases like that. How well it paints is more important than the actual ratio of paint to thinner.

Ditto MusicCity !!!!
What type of paint and brands of paints are you using StarWars?
Cheers!!!!
Kelley

I'm keeping it simple, I'm just using Model Master for now. Hopefully once I get the basics down, then I can try some other brands of paint.

model master are goods. me good at english. unpossible to fail

Hah. Leet's last name is Wiggums.

I personally like to thin my paint to the consistancy of skim milk, but that a personal thing. The important thing is that it's working for you, you're not getting bad spattering or anything like that. If that's the case, keep doing what you're doing. You'll find sometimes that you need to thin some colors or jars more, some less, it'll also depend on what you're trying to paint and the situation. If what your'e doing works, stick with it man.

Trying to figure out the "skim milk" thinning approximation can be largely subjective, confusing and frustrating. The time tested general ratio for thinning model paint tends to be 2 parts paint-to- 1 part thinner. For fine lines and detail work try a 1:1 paint-to-thinner ratio. These are basic starting points. Test spray the mix on a scrap sheet of styrene or junk model part; if the paint flow is still a bit too thick(ie. spattering, flecks of paint along the spray pattern, etc.) add a drop or two of thinner. If the mix is too thin (ie. paint spray is transparent on the model surface, dosn't cover well after a few light coats, paint spray is very runny after contating the model), simply add a drop or two of paint. I've been doing this way for 20 years without a problem. Its worked for me using acrylics and enamels. Happy modeling!

Good advice Greg.

Mike

Maddafinger: im confusid. and if you are refering to me, its 1337, not l33t, tho thats the purpose of that.

I'm new to air brushing, what is working for me is the model master paints. A gravity feed air brush approx 15 psi thinned down to a milk consistency. I thin or thicken it after test spraying Kurt.

QUOTE: Originally posted by kfinger I'm new to air brushing, what is working for me is the model master paints. A gravity feed air brush approx 15 psi thinned down to a milk consistency. I thin or thicken it after test spraying Kurt.

That's the key, Kurt. The fact that it's working for you.

IMO there is no single, best way to paint. The "Best" way is the way that you like and the one that works for you under most circumstances. You may have to adjust things for a particular bottle of paint or for a particularly difficult area to be painted, but once you find a general "Recipe" that works, and unless a person happens to be way off base, the best thing to do is to stick in that general area because it's what you get accustomed to feeling. Thick paint vs. thin paint or high pressure vs. low pressure covers different and "feels" different. I'm not experienced enough to be able to adapt to changes quickly, so I prefer a combination that doesn't surprise me when I use it.