SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

3 or 4 colors Plane Camouflage

1491 views
8 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, May 29, 2004 3:07 PM
don't forget to thin paints.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Lower Alabama
Posted by saltydog on Saturday, May 29, 2004 9:21 AM
good advice tweety!! i forgot to mention angling the brush towards the inside of the cammo pattern as i use that method as well. thanks for adding that. BTW, nice heloThumbs Up [tup]!! later.
Chris The Origins of Murphy's Law: "In the begginning there was nothing, and it exploded."!!! _________ chris
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Alice Springs Australia
Posted by tweety1 on Saturday, May 29, 2004 9:15 AM
salty is right, and his method will work extremely well.

As for me, I do not have the patience for messing around with colours forever and a day.
When I do my camo schemes, I mask the cockpit, and thats pretty much it.

Freehand is my preferance, and works out quite well for me.


This is one I just finished in a week, all the camo is freehand, even the antenna, and sky blue underbelly.

When I freehand, I spray the base colour, as salty said, then pencil the general pattern.
After that, while I am spraying, I angle the model as required so the brush is always pointing towards the middle of the camo colour 'patch' being applied.

Don't know if that makes sense?

--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Lower Alabama
Posted by saltydog on Friday, May 28, 2004 8:43 PM
i agree with mike as my hp-c with the .3mm n/n combo is a wee bit small for model paints in my opinion. yeah, sure i can get the model paints to go through and i can get a tight fine line, but its twice as much work than with using the larger hp-cs .35mm n/n or the .4mm n/n conversion for the hp-c. however, this thread is about painting cammo and not which airbrush he should choose so we better lay off it boys!!Big Smile [:D] i'm assuming that flores already has one. later.
Chris The Origins of Murphy's Law: "In the begginning there was nothing, and it exploded."!!! _________ chris
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Friday, May 28, 2004 7:11 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by 1337

don't get a sotar or cm-c since they are not really for model paints. maybe the badger 100, hp-c, hp-b, or hp-cs would work well.


The HP-B belongs in the same category as the Sotar and the Micron as it has a very small tip. These will spray some acrylics alright but they are not as reliable.

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 28, 2004 3:20 PM
don't get a sotar or cm-c since they are not really for model paints. maybe the badger 100, hp-c, hp-b, or hp-cs would work well.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 28, 2004 7:00 AM
Hello Saltydog,

Really liked your in-depth approach to paint 3 to 4 colors camouflage schemes.
Appreciated your patience.
Cheers,
Flores

Big Smile [:D]
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Lower Alabama
Posted by saltydog on Friday, May 28, 2004 6:48 AM
flores, when painting cammo, yes, lighter colors first and work your way towards the darker ones. we share the same addiction as i love the cammo shceme myself and when i go model hunting, i buy atleast one bird with a cammo scheme every trip. ironically, the P-51D is my all time favorite bird and it is usually found in natural metal. when doing cammo schemes freehand i have found these methods to work well for me.

1. you need a good quality airbrush and the ability to achieve the fine line consistantly is key for freehand jobs, masking is a whole different ball game that i dont have the patience for. a steady hand is neccesary as well. i use an iwata hp-c or hp-cs but there are plenty more good brushes out there as well. BTW, it needs to be clean too!! along with the airbrush you need some type of air source, moisture trap, and pressure regulator.

2. if you have the above in place and all sanding, filling, and cleaning are done, the next step is to mix the paint. let me harp on a clean, flawless surface for just a second, the paint job is only gonna look as good as the surface, so do what you have to do (priming to find defects and wet sanding them out ect, ect) to get them out before you begin the paint job. for the base coat, i usually mix a 60% paint to 40% thinner ratio and mist the base coat on in light even coats using around 15 psi. this usually takes about 3 coats to get the results i'm looking for. when i get the base coat done and it has cured over night ( i use mm enamels ), i take a pencil and lightly trace the edges of the next color onto the surface of the model. then, thinning a little further i take the next lightest color with a 50/50 ratio and begin to follow the pencil marks. at this point, i'm not concerning myself with the tight line on the edges because its gonna take a couple of coats to get the next color to cover as well. just get the general shape of the cammo pattern filled in and get the coverage you want. do the same with the next color and the next if you have that many. i usually apply these color with about 10 to 12 psi. usually, the thinner the paint, the lower the pressure needs to be.

3. at this point, you have all the colors applied to the model and your very excited because it sorta resembles the real bird and you want to decal it and finish it and show it to your forum friends!!! NOT!!! its gonna look horrible as the edges look all grainy and you messed up over here and had an uh-oh over there. so, take another thinner ratio of each color ( about 40% paint and 60% thinner at about 8 psi or so) and begin the long, slow journey (but boy this is my favorite part!!!) of cleaning up the edges. now, while doing this, your gonna be into all of the colors 2 or 3 times erasing little boo boos here and there. this is where good old fashion patience and a desire to get it just right come into place. well, these are the methods that i use and below are some pics to give you an idea of what my humble efforts achieve. hope this helps. later.







Chris The Origins of Murphy's Law: "In the begginning there was nothing, and it exploded."!!! _________ chris
  • Member since
    November 2005
3 or 4 colors Plane Camouflage
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 28, 2004 4:45 AM
I'm looking for a detailed step-by-step description of the sequence to be observed while doing a 3 or 4 color soft-edged camouflage scheme.
I like camouflaged planes, but the work involved (painting and masking) is too much, at least for me.
Also, what is the ideal order for painting the colors? Lighter colors first?
I (and others, I am sure) will benefit from any help you can give.
Cheers,
Flores
Blush [:I]
JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.