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Messed up spray job with Future

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Messed up spray job with Future
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 6, 2004 10:45 PM
I used Future for the first time to prep my model for decaling.The kit is a Testors 1/32 H-43B Helicopter that I am trying to make. The results are a disaster. It is splotch'y. I think the spray dried to fast, plus a couple of runs. I cleaned up the runs with ammonia and water. I'm wondering if I need to clean the whole model and start from scratch, or if I should just respray with Future? I thought I read some where that the new application will reactivate the Future thats already on the piece and blend in? I Need some advise on this. Next question: What is the best medium to use to slow the drying process? Is dishwashing liquid or thinner the way to go and how much do you add. Or is something else better to use? I sprayed at 15 psi. The good news is I dipped the winshield and it came out great. I masked and painted the inside frame and outside frame of the windshield, but made a mistake and used gloss paint on the outer frame. Should I now redip it in Future? If I spray dullcoat on to get the frame back to a flat color will that dull the clear parts of the windshield? Unfortunately I unmasked it already. Thanks in advance for any help , Scat
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 7, 2004 1:57 AM
When you spray Future, do it in LIGHT coats. Some of us give our models a couple of light coats, especially when you're getting ready to apply your decals. About the runs, not sure what to do to fix that. Maybe a light sanding with a fine/super fine sanding stick. I had that happen when I started using Future, but I was already tired of that kit & chalked it up to a lesson learned the hard way. 15psi might be a little high, maybe down a notch or so. When you spray it on, go over areas quickly, like a light spray & keep getting new areas so that you give what you just sprayed a chance to start to settle. Future is supposed to be self leveling, unless you spray on to much. I sprayed an model with Dullcoat a long while back without masking the canopy, another lessoned learned the hard way. But later I applied a couple coats of Future to the canopy with a brush, it really made it look alot better, shinny & a little cloudy. I would say just make the canopy again. I know that sounds like a pain to do. Try using something like LiquidMask by Microscale, that's what I use & I like the results. Good Luck.
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Wednesday, July 7, 2004 5:27 AM
What kind of paint did you use? If it's acrylic you need to be careful fixing the Future because anything that will dissolve the Future may also dissolve the acrylic paint.

Windex will remove Future and usually (note that I said "Usually") won't bother acrylic paint if it is thoroughly cured. For the areas that ran some Windex on a Q-tip and GENTLE rubbing might be in order.

I don't thin Future at all, but as Transblu said, thin coats are important. It is already so thin that it can run pretty easily. Spray on a thin coat, let it sit for about 20 minutes, and spray on another thin coat. Repeat until you get the finish you like. I spray at about 10-15 psi from about 4" to 6" from the surface of the model.

Anthing used on the canopy to dull the frame is going to dull the clear parts as well. You can try mixing some Tamiya XF-21 Flat Base with Future (About 3 parts Future to 1 part XF-21) and then painting it over the frame with a very small brush, but it will give a dull coat to any of the clear parts that you get it on as well.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 7, 2004 10:22 AM
Thanks for the advice guys. I used Testors enamal paint on the windshield frame. I think I'll try and brush a flat base on the painted areas of the frame as you suggest.

I cleaned up the runs with a little ammonia and water on a Q- tip. It worked real well. Do you think if I respray over the splotchy areas with light coats as you again suggest that it will blend in smooth, or should I remove all the Future from the entire model and start over with the light coats? Thanks, Scat
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Alice Springs Australia
Posted by tweety1 on Wednesday, July 7, 2004 11:05 AM
If you apply some more Future to the affected areas, it will blend in pretty well, almost un noticable.

With patch up jobs the key is to make light mist coats, allow a few minutes for the Future to react with the old Future, then another light mist.
You will see when it has blended together, thats when you stop.

Hope this helps.
--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 7, 2004 2:35 PM
Thanks for the tip. I will start respaying in light mist coats tonight. I hope it works out because I am getting frustrated. Scat
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 7, 2004 3:12 PM
when applying lighter coats drop your pressure so you get a heavier coating.

I refer you to swanny's sight about use of future

www.swanny.com
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Lower Alabama
Posted by saltydog on Wednesday, July 7, 2004 5:04 PM
i apply future totally opposite of the above post and it comes out smooth and ultra glossy everytime. it is kind of a trick that you have to get used to, but i apply about 2 or 3 heavy "wet" coats. i've never had good results from spraying light mist coats, but thats just me. i spray the 1st coat being sure to keep a "wet " edge at all times. never spray half of an area and leave for longer than 30 or more seconds or you will loose the "wet" edge i'm speaking of. for example, start at the outer edge of an area with about half the spray pattern hanging off the edge of the subject and do the same when you reach the other side. windex will strip future but i've always had to take it completely off. again, these are my experiences and i'm definetly not saying that the above advice wont work. hope this helps. later.
Chris The Origins of Murphy's Law: "In the begginning there was nothing, and it exploded."!!! _________ chris
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 8, 2004 12:58 AM
Be very careful with Windex & acrylics, namely Tamiya & Gunze. It will disolve that paint right up, even if it's fully cured. I had an Abrams that I didn't like the Tamiya color that I laid down MONTHS ago. I just shot it up with Windex & it just disolved & rinse right off, no soaking or scrubing. Windex didn't seem to have much of an effect on Model Master Acrylics.
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