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Hand brush from start to finish. Possible?

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 9, 2004 10:36 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by MusicCity
I paint in my basement all the time, and to be honest I don't use my respirator mask as often as I should. If I'm doing a lot of painting I'll get it out, but for small parts and touch ups I usually let it slide. I keep a fan blowing most of the time though, so maybe that will keep some of the particles away.


I would think the danger of inhaling plastic particles only apply when you airbrush, right? Since the acrylic pigments are bound in the solvent when you paint by hand.

Does the airbrush booth I see selling on several sites help? If I work entirely with acrylic, that is.
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Friday, July 9, 2004 8:27 AM
QUOTE:
Yes. The floating plastic particles thing is why I hasitate to airbrush in the basement.

I paint in my basement all the time, and to be honest I don't use my respirator mask as often as I should. If I'm doing a lot of painting I'll get it out, but for small parts and touch ups I usually let it slide. I keep a fan blowing most of the time though, so maybe that will keep some of the particles away.

QUOTE: I still remember my first paint job on a YF-16 with painter's paint and watercolor brush...

I suspect we all have stories like that. I can sure remember some of my first ones!
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 9, 2004 8:11 AM
Yes. The floating plastic particles thing is why I hasitate to airbrush in the basement.

I still remember my first paint job on a YF-16 with painter's paint and watercolor brush...
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Thursday, July 8, 2004 9:42 PM
QUOTE: Why is an airbrush out of the question in the basement? If you're worried about ventilation, learn to use acrylic paint and Future-both are non-toxic. At least it hasn't affected me mulch.

Both are non-toxic when taken internally. That doesn't mean you should be breathing them. Regardless of what you are spraying, it is always a good idea to use a respirator. The inside of your lungs are not supposed to be coated with acrylic plastic. Also, other things that are used to thin the paint or clean your airbrush, alcohol, Windex, whatever, may well NOT be non-toxic.

I use acrylics almost exclusively and would never go back to enamels. I will occasionally use some enamel primer or laquer metalizer but that is normally from rattle cans and sprayed outside.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Thursday, July 8, 2004 8:09 PM
Welcome to the forum

Is it possible to completely hand paint a model? Yes indeed it is,did it for years before I finally bit the bullet and bought an air brush (and still hand paint one now and again). Is an airbrush and compressor nice to have? yep. Is it necessary , nope. I some times think that a lot of guys here on the forum forget that not everyone has the wherewithal to run out right this second and buy an airbrush/compressor. Go ahead and hand paint and enjoy modeling and get an airbrush when you can afford it.
Quincy
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 8, 2004 7:11 PM
Since I got an airbrush, I've gone to using acrylic paints & Future like f-4phantom. They are much easier & safer to clean up than enamels or laquers.
  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Mpls., Mn.
Posted by f-4phantom on Thursday, July 8, 2004 3:57 PM
Why is an airbrush out of the question in the basement? If you're worried about ventilation, learn to use acrylic paint and Future-both are non-toxic. At least it hasn't affected me mulch.

  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: Minnetonka, MN
Posted by ewc2003 on Thursday, July 8, 2004 1:56 PM
What you have to watch for (and I'm in the Southeast....) is the changes in both temp and humidity... I wouldn't say that the humidity would tend to change too much inside the house, but I spent the 4th of July in Boston in 2000 when my last ship was there, and it was plenty humid...and if your winters are drier than the summers, I don't see a real big problem. Mostly what you're going to experience is a change in the drying times, mostly...and if you use the spray can dull or gloss coat finishes...and if you're going to use acrylics or enamels...many variables here as you can see.

HOWEVER, the one thing that I have learned since getting back into modelling a month ago is NOTHING IS EVER CERTAIN. Two days can be exactly the same temp and humidity, and results will vary.

Hope this helps... and Sign - Welcome [#welcome] back!
Matt ------------------------------------------------- "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." - Edmund Burke
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 8, 2004 1:43 PM
Thanks for the advices. Clear coat spray can looks like a good idea. But what about during the winter time? It gets real cold here in the north east. Does the big temparature differrences (in- and outside the house) have any negative effect on the paint and decals?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 8, 2004 12:12 PM
Hello stephenju and Sign - Welcome [#welcome] to the forums. Like everyone has pretty much said, it is possible to do it from start to finish. I used to brush paint the scheme i wanted and on nice low wind days I would go outside on an old folding table covered with newspaper and spray the gloss coat with a testors can then bring it inside to let dry, but covered it with a box. It worked pretty good with some decent results.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 8, 2004 12:05 PM
It is very possible to hand paint them (aircraft 1:48, 1:72) all through. That was the only way I did my models when I still lived at home. All I had then was the small testor enamel bottles.

My best advice is to record paint to thinner ratios for each color. I vaguely remember I only would thin Alum 5:1 (paint:thinner), but gloss black was 2:1. I recommend practicing on scrap with each mixture before painting the real deal. I always had to tweek the ratios a little each time depending on the humidity, heat, etc. Otherwise I would get brush marks everywhere, or the paint would pool in depressions, or it would be too thick or....

I don't know about the final gloss, flat, matt coat. Never did did final coats back then. Now I spray all exterior paint & future with my airbrush. I still handbrush all interiors & details.

- Jamey
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tochigi, Japan
Posted by J-Hulk on Thursday, July 8, 2004 9:45 AM
Sure, it's possible! I did that for years, before I finally got an airbrush (well, I used brushes and spray cans).
There was an article in a recent FSM about effective brush painting, so I'd recommend looking for that.
~Brian
  • Member since
    November 2005
Hand brush from start to finish. Possible?
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 8, 2004 8:44 AM
Hi. Newbie trying to come back to the hobby after 20 years here.

I can't commit myself to a full blown workbench yet. And since I have to work in the basement, air brushing probably is out of the question right now.

So the question is, can I paint the models completly by hand from start to finish? I understand that I need to paint the model with glossy and flat coats to really finish it. Is anyone doing it by hand?

Oh. And I will be making mostly 1/72 and 1/48 aircrafts.

Thanks.
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