Got my airbrush, have a few questions.

What kind of airbrush is it? In general, to clean it, just run some thinner through it after using it and that will take care of it. Some are finicky, some are pretty forgiving. Best thing I can recommend is to use the manufacturer's recommendations.

As a very rough rule of thumb, paint should be thinned to about the consistency of milk. That is going to vary depending on the airbrush and the pressure. I spray Tamiya and Model Master acrylics mostly, and thin them about 3 parts paint to one part thinner. For thinner I usually use 91% isopropyl alcohol, but that will cause Tamiya paint to give a flat finish. If I need a gloss finish I use Tamiya thinner with Tamiya paints. I Also usually add a couple of drops of acrylic retarder to the mix to slow down the drying time. I spray at about 15 psi pressure, and about 4" to 6" from the model.

These are going to vary for you, because everyone likes to paint a little different. Just play with your airbrush on a scrap model and find a combination that works for you. You aren't going to ruin your brush, it's designed to have paint blown through it, so just have at it. If you have any problems there is usually someone around here who can help.

Hi Ryan,

What sort of AB is it and what type of paint are you using (acrylic or enamel)?

I have a PDF file at home that was talks about AB maintenance etc. I can send it through if you give me your email address.

Darren

Heya Ryan...

I was the same exact way when I got my Badger 360 for Christmas....but I am here to tell you- the Aztek is sorely neglected now

FSM had an issue not long ago (March 2002) that focused on airbrushes and maintenance- I have been using it as a guide and haven't had problems yet. Good luck!!

ahhhhhh, it brings back the memories of recieving my omni 5000 in the mail, then the badger 200G, then the iwata hp-c, then the hp-cs!! what anxiety, what excitement, what shear gut wrenching anticipation!!! welcome to the forums ryan. don't be nervous friend, just roll your sleeves up, slap in some paint thinned at about 60% paint to 40% thinner and spray away. when you get finished, just like scott says, spray the appropriate thinner through it til i comes out the same color as it when in and you're good to go. they have some micro brushes at dixieart.com that are capable of reaching every crook and cranny of any given airbrush and they're solvent proof to boot. i have 2 sets and love them. however, you don't really need to break the brush down and do a major clean after every use or you'll end up wearing the parts uneccesarily. but don't be afraid of the cleaning situation, although this is not reccomended for any brush, i have been in a spraying session and the phone rang, i answered it and before you know it i'm in the bed and have forgotten about a cup full of paint being in the airbrush. i leave it there overnight and come back to my workbench to find out i have an airbrush full of dried enamel paint!!! so, i break out the heavy hitting lacquer thinner and micro brushes and within 30 minutes she's as clean as when she come from the factory. the heavy hitter for cleaning dried acrylic paints i found is Model Master Acryl Solvent. that stuff will take off any type of acrylic paint on the modelling paint market my friend, even if its been there for a week!!! get these 2 products to clean with and be careful and try not to breathe the fumes too much, and you'll be fine my friend. happy airbrushing and if you have problems, never fear posting anytype of questions on this forum, there are certainly great people with lots of experience and info that are happy to help. later.

what he said . What type of brush ya got?

on him. its best you let everyone know that type of airbrush you have, whether its gravity or bottom feed or what brand.

Thanks for all the advice.

To darson, could you please send me the PDF file. My address is raustin_83@hotmail.com.

Also, one more thing I forgot to ask. Will Model Master enamels work with the airbrush? It is a Paasche VL.

Thanks again.

Ryan

QUOTE: Also, one more thing I forgot to ask. Will Model Master enamels work with the airbrush? It is a Paasche VL.

Ryan, MM enamels will work just fine in any airbrush. Airbrushes are designed to spray paints, and about the only time you'll ever run into any problems are with some of the brushes with plastic parts when using laquer thinner. I looked at the parts list for yours and it doesn't appear to have any plastic in it so you should have no problems. The air valve probably has an o-ring in it, so I wouldn't advise soaking that in anything strong, but the path that the paint would normally take should be able to handle acrylics or enamels with no problems at all.

Good to know my MM enamels will work.

Once again, I have another question (hopefully the last). I plan on doing my modelling/airbrushing in our basement . There are small windows but are all shut (I think they open. My desk is about 20 feet away from any window. Do I need a spray booth? I have a new respirator with filters etc. Also, family and friends do spend time in the basement.. I want to make sure they aren't inhaling any toxins.

Thanks for you help,

Ryan

ryan, you definetly want some sort of ventilation. i use my bathroom exhaust fan which is right through a door about 4 feet from my workbench. it helps quite a bit, but i need more too. a spray booth would be ideal, but if you are on a budget, they are expensive. you could set up a house hold fan pointing out of one of the window while spraying and this would carry the majority of the fumes out, and wear the respirator. later.