priming before painting

QUOTE: Is co2 gas a good propellant for airbrush? I have an unlimited supply..

Like Mike said Just be sure and get / use a regulator rated for that kind of pressure. The ones you get at Lowes or someplace like that aren't even close. They are rated for less than 200 psi.

QUOTE: looks like acrylic is the way to go..Im probably wrong but it seems with acrylic you don't get the proper colors for lets say if your doing a automobile?

That depends on the colors you want and what brand of acrylics you use. There are a number of manufacturers of acrylics paints and the colors in each range vary widely. You might look around the automotive area and see what the guys there are using.

You can also mix your own colors. If you don't like a shade, mix something else in a change it. Just stick with the same brands of paint.

QUOTE: i was going to use enamel for my airbrush BUT being a GREENHORN i think i will use acrylic. See what you guys already thought me

You don't have to limit yourself to just one type. It is best to spray acrylics over enamels but you can spray enamel over acrylic if you allow it plenty of time to cure (as in 24 hours or more).

QUOTE: I enjoy your website Scott. I'll have to look a little closer. looks like alot of great information!! and the models, wow.

Thanks, glad you like it. It's been around for a long time and you can see several changes in interest on it One of these days I'm going to finish this big ol' F-105. I don't have a lot left to do, which is a good thing since I've got an F-4 on order

I've learned to use acrylics and I just love 'em. I especially like Tamiya.

Rich,

CO2 is excellent for airbrushing as it is clean and moisture free.

Mike

darn i forgot!

Is co2 gas a good propellant for airbrush? I have an unlimited supply..

thanks,

rich

looks like acrylic is the way to go..Im probably wrong but it seems with acrylic you don't get the proper colors for lets say if your doing a automobile?

i was going to use enamel for my airbrush BUT being a GREENHORN i think i will use acrylic. See what you guys already thought me

I enjoy your website Scott. I'll have to look a little closer. looks like alot of great information!! and the models, wow.

thxs Mike, Scott, Rick, Jeff

Rich

QUOTE: Originally posted by MikeV Welcome to the forum Rich. No, you do not have to prime each piece of a kit, in fact it is not necessary to prime anything if you don't want to, but most of us do to see any flaws we may have missed and to seal any minor scratches that the primer will fill. Priming also helps with adhesion of paints that are not known to adhere as well such as acrylics. Mike

.........yeah what Mr. V & Scott say.........& the more you work with acrylics, the more you'll like 'em...........
AND (again) Rich..... to the coolest place online.

QUOTE: What are your pressures you use to spray enamel and acrylic. Are they the same? im sure this sounds redundant but..

Nah, it's not redundant, we get it all the time

Jef gave some good advice. The ratio of paint to thinner will vary based on severral factors, most notably the pressure you spray at. I spray at low pressure, normally less than 15 psi and occasionally so low the gauge won't register. I usually use a ratio of 3:1 (paint:thinner) for acrylics, and when I paint with enamels (very seldom) I start with about that same ratio. If the paint is runny or watery I add more paint. If it won't flow through my airbrush I thin it a little more.

The best thinner is normally what the paint manufacturer recommends, however I usually use plain old 91% isopropyl alcohol to thin acrylics. This will cause Tamiya acrylics to give a flat finish though. Some manufacturers recommend just using water for thinner (Poly Scale comes to mind) but most recommend using their thinner (naturally). I usually use alcohol unless there is a reason I shouldn't.

I also normally add a couple of drops of acrylic retarder to my paint mix. This dramatically slows down the drying time of acrylics and reduces the "Dry Tip" problem as well as some of the finish problems associated with acrylics. You can find it at most good art supply stores.

Hola Rich from sunny So. Cal. . This is my take. If you have to fill and sand any seams on your models you absolutely should use primer because its awesome for showing what you messed up on or missed. If ya put paint on the seam without primer and theres a mistake there ya didnt see youre stuck with it. Now if there is no problems, the kit went together well, just take some extremely fine sand paper and give the entire model a light sanding. You are not out to sand details off, so go light. Just scuff up the plastic. Rinse it with water and let dry. Then take some tack cloth or an old flannel shirt and wipe the model down. You are now ready to finish your master piece.

Pressures for airbrushing vary greatly. get a cardboard box and have it near your work table. If ya use acrylics like I do, thin them with water about 30% to the total of paint ok. If ya get a watery, spidery shot on the card board before you spray the model, up the paint. If it comes out coarse and stimply lower your pressure and get closer to the card board. Once you have a good pattern on the cardboard go to the model and knock yer 'elf out.

-Jeff

fargo, ND

hey rich with a screen name like that you wouldn't by chance be from northern minnesota,
I am from Bemidji, Mn

jeez, and i thought i was old! lol

What are your pressures you use to spray enamel and acrylic. Are they the same? im sure this sounds redundant but..

thanks

rich

I've got you beat I'm 52 and just got back into the hobby again early this year. No telling how many times I've started and stopped over the years, but this time I might stick with it for a while.

Water-based acrylics are gaining popularity. I don't know exactly how long they have been around, but I understand that when they first started showing up they were pretty bad. I really like them, and about 90% of what I paint is acrylic.

Enamels still give a slightly better finish and they tend to adhere to plastic better, but the lack of fumes and the ability to clean up with water is a big plus. When I finish painting, I run some water through my airbrush, followed by a little of MikeV's patented recipe (Windex, Simple Green, distilled water) and then rinse with water again. Acrylics can be thinned with water, alcohol, or Windex to.

Their major drawback is that they dry super fast. So fast that they can start to dry between the airbrush and the model. You learn to paint at low pressure and close to the surface. You also learn to clean the tip of your airbrush very frequently.

thanks for the information...

Just a quick note about myself..I'm a 43 y/o. who at one time built models as a kid. I see there are alot of people that also are getting back into the hobby, my boys are 13 and 15 and they are also starting out

We have a Badger 200 airbrush that i can power by a co2 tank, this is also new to us and i see most people use waterbased paint instead of the enamel. I was going to use enamel, put now it might seem to complicated?

Thanks for the information what a great site!!!

Rich

Welcome to the Forum . I prime all of the larger parts and assemblies before painting final color. It helps with subsequent paint adhesion & shows any seams or mold lines that need to be corrected. Also important is cleaning parts before priming to remove any mold release reidue.

Regards, Rick

I agree with Mike. Welcome to the forum and his advice is dead on. I spray mostly acrylics and they don't adhere nearly as well as enamel or laquer. I prime some of my parts just to get better adhesion since acrylic paint sticks pretty well to enamel primer. Priming will also let you see surface flaws such as seams that you would have sworn were filled properly.

Welcome to the forum Rich.

No, you do not have to prime each piece of a kit, in fact it is not necessary to prime anything if you don't want to, but most of us do to see any flaws we may have missed and to seal any minor scratches that the primer will fill.
Priming also helps with adhesion of paints that are not known to adhere as well such as acrylics.

Mike