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Chipped paint fixes, anyone?

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  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Silicon Valley
Chipped paint fixes, anyone?
Posted by Yatch on Wednesday, July 28, 2004 6:42 PM
I hope I'm posting this in the right forum. If not, I apologize in advance for the off-topic post.

I've got a Tamiya Gen 7 Celica model that I began a long while ago, and on the last coat of paint on the body, just as I was buffing it out, two tiny chips of paint came off, down to the plastic almost.

The chips are darn-near circular, so I'm guessing it was a bit of mold release or some soap that I didn't wash off all the way when paint-prepping it. This has never happened before, and I was wondering if I need to strip the whole thing and start again, or if it can be salvaged.

If it needs to be stripped, does anyone have a recommendation on what to use? I've heard brake fluid, and some specialized PPG products, but I've never needed to strip old paint either, so I'm stuck without some guidance.

If it can be repaired, what would be a good way to do it? I was thinking I could brush in the defects by hand to build up the paint, then wet sand and polish, then reapply a couple more coats to the whole body. What do you think?

Oh, the details - Did not primer the body (don't ask), and used Tamiya spraycan Mica Blue for the paint (my airbrush skills were not up to par at the time I began this one).

Thanks for any advice anyone can offer.

-Nate
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Maine,USA
Posted by dubix88 on Wednesday, July 28, 2004 7:11 PM
HEY,
As far as i can tell your idea sounds good. What you could do is just put another coat, wet-sand, and then apply a couple more. Applying the first coat should fill the holes, and the sanding will make the entire surface even. And the last couple coats are just to make it nice and smooth and finished. Next time, i suggest using primer. If you did have soap on the surface, this would have put a barrier between the soap and the paint. Sry if im wrong and f i am, please corredt me so i dont keep doing the wrong thing.:-)

Randy
THATS MY VOTE "If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving infant's life, she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there is a man on base." -Dave Barry In the words of the great Larry the Cable Guy, "GIT-R-DONE!!!"
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Wednesday, July 28, 2004 7:48 PM
Depending on how big the spots are, Randy is probably right in that they can be filled and buffed out.

If you do decide to strip it, the absolute best thing I've found is Castrol Super Clean. It's a general purpose cleaner you can get at auto parts places, and it will strip acrylic or enamel (haven't tried it on laquer) down to bare plastic in a few minutes. I just pour some in a plastic ice cream container, soak the parts a few minutes, and finish up with a toothbrush. The cleaner is reusable, so just dump it back in the bottle for later use.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Wednesday, July 28, 2004 8:40 PM
I agree with Scott.
Castrol Super Clean is the best.

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Silicon Valley
Posted by Yatch on Wednesday, July 28, 2004 9:15 PM
Thanks for the quick responses. I figured that the build-up/sand-back-down/new-coat method would be the easiest way to go, and I guess it wouldn't hurt to try it before I have to start all over anyway.

Another question though - since this is a new problem for me, ever had any trouble with aged paint and new paint? The already-applied coats are about, oh, 2+ years old. Does anyone foresee any trouble with applying new paint on top? Of course I'll dust the darn thing off, first. Big Smile [:D]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 28, 2004 11:37 PM
Should be no problem. I just repainted a white Lamborghini SP500 a few weeks ago since the white was turning yellow, no, brown, actually. This model was built around 7 years ago. After giving the body a bath and light scrub in dishwashing detergent and water (the body is not glued to the chassis -- it's one of those early Tamiya motorized car kits) and drying time, I airbrushed two coats of gloss white, with buffs in-between. The new paint didn't come off or mix with the old paint. For you, as long as the old paint is sufficiently cured, I don't think that you're going to have a problem applying a new coat over it. Hope this helps.

Regards,
onyan
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Maine,USA
Posted by dubix88 on Thursday, July 29, 2004 7:36 AM
HEY,
Sign - Ditto [#ditto]Sign - Ditto [#ditto]

Randy
THATS MY VOTE "If a woman has to choose between catching a fly ball and saving infant's life, she will choose to save the infant's life without even considering if there is a man on base." -Dave Barry In the words of the great Larry the Cable Guy, "GIT-R-DONE!!!"
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Silicon Valley
Posted by Yatch on Thursday, July 29, 2004 1:50 PM
Thanks everyone. Now I at least have a little more confidence in going for it.

-Nate
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 29, 2004 3:00 PM
Might I suggest that since real cars get scratches all the time, and dents, if you want to go for a rice-rocket look, just bondo the part and don't sand Big Smile [:D] but you may need to put some type-r stickers

just kidding.

just touch up sand and repaint or what the guys above said
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