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Humbrol metal finishes

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  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Humbrol metal finishes
Posted by echolmberg on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 8:39 AM
Good morning everyone!

I was at my loal hobby shop the other day (one that I hadn't been in in a while) and I noticed they had quite the selection of Humbrol paints. I remember painting Monogram's B-17 as a 10 year old kid using several tins of the stuff and a big paintbrush. But now I'm wondering just how good are their metal paints (ie. Aluminum, gun metal, etc). Do they look good when used on a plane to simulate a natural metal finish? Are they better than MM? I know nothing is as good as Alclad or SnJ so I was just wondering how the Humbrol metalic paints rate. If they're pretty good then I think I'll stock up. If not then I'll just stock up on the Alclad and SnJ.

Thanks!

Eric

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Swindon, UK
Posted by F105-Thud on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 2:54 PM
Go with the Alclad 2, it`s the best out there by far. Oh and don`t forget the black undercoat (or dark undercoat). Just ask Swanny, he has a link to his website with all the info you'll ever need to know on Alclad
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 3:43 PM
their metel finished are the best on the market IMO for things like landing gear, guns... small stuff. FOr overall finishes such as the outter color job on a bird... Alclad2 is the only thing I use.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Thursday, August 19, 2004 8:26 AM
I'm convinced! My next bird will be Alclad on the outside and Humbrol for the gear and guns! Thank you for the info. :)

Eric

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 19, 2004 3:31 PM
I just used some of the Humbrol MetalCote paint. Specifically it was flat aluminum (haven't tried the other colors yet). I wasn't totally impressed with it for a couple of reasons:
- the 'grain' of the paint seemed fairly visible. Perhaps OK for larger scales, but mine was in 1/72 and seemed out of place
- it's fragile. Just touching the paint after plenty of dry time would leave residue on your fingers. The good thing was, the paint itself still looked pretty good. No visible fingerprints or anything. Just silver residue on my fingers. I tried to mask off a small section with tamiya tape, and although it didn't pull the paint right off, it did pull enough pigment off that it was noticeable. I tried to mask with parafilm, and had trouble getting it to stick at all. I didn't even try to apply decals over it, because I didn't think they'd stick at all.

I ended up putting a future coat overtop, then decals, then future, and then Testors Dull Lacquer. The end result was acceptable to me, but not what I was hoping for...

Here's an overall shot of the model, and another one that you can see the 'grain' in the finish on the wings (however, a 'grain' like that would probably be really good for some other things, like perhaps an aluminum block on a car engine??):


  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 19, 2004 6:05 PM
On 72 scale thin it first about 30% then paint it on... youll be alot happier with the results. Larger scales straight outta the tin.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 20, 2004 1:16 PM
Thanks Jeff, but it was thinned out. I'm not totally unhappy, but perhaps I should have used the 'polished aluminum' instead of the 'flat aluminum'.

Murray
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 20, 2004 5:01 PM
OOoo that could be it too. Also I discovered through a few ruined models a looong time ago to really mix them, especially when you think you have it mixed it enough, youre about half way there Evil [}:)]Wink [;)]
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