Satin mix

I can only speak in generalities on this one. Assuming they're both acrylic and the same brand you can mix them but I don't think it would change things much. I think it would be better to spray the flat first and then overcoat with satin. May I ask what you are trying to do?

bstrump;
They're both Polly Scale, the paint and the clear satin overcoat. I'm trying to save a step and get a decal ready finish with one spraying session.
Steve

I don't think it will cause any problems, but I don't think you'll get the finish you want either. I usually spray the flat, rub it down with steel wool or something along those lines, spray a coat of Future, apply the decals, then the final clear coat (gloss or flat depending on the model).

Hi Steve
I understand what you are trying to do. It's good that you're looking for a better way of doing something but I don't think the finishing is the place to cut corners. To get a decal ready surface in one shot, you'd have to mix the flat paint with a clear gloss at least 1:1just to get a semi-gloss surface. By doing this you are reducing the ratio of pigment in the mixture with the result that it takes more coats to get the color coverage. This is the reason why most of us use flats. They have much more pigment in them than gloss paints and get better coverage. But you have to overcoat. It's not really more work just different work. Follow Scott's advice and you wont go wrong.
Cheers
Bert

Actually, with what you're trying to do, if you mix a flat paint with a satin overcoat you will theoretically end up with a finish that's in-between the two: a satin finish that's flatter than the satin coat alone but not as flat as the flat paint itself. And if you're preparing the finish for applying decals, you might get silvering in the end. So, like Scott and Bert said, it would be better for you to apply the flat color first, then spray or brush on Future or a gloss coat on the spots where the decals will go. After the decals have settled and dried, you may apply the overcoat for the finish that you're after (flat, satin, or gloss). Hope this helps.

Thanks Scott, Bert and Tony;

Scott-- Steel wool?!?!

Tony-- I've got an F4F where I put gloss just where the decals go and decaled. Will it be hard to get an even gloss or satin overcoat in this way, or will it just take many coats?

Thanks again for all the help;
Steve

QUOTE: Scott-- Steel wool?!?!

Yup, 0000 steel wool. That's what I like to use for smoothing a surface. Admittedly, you have to be careful

Instead of steel wool, use Pixilator's trick with a coffee filter.
I think trying to eliminate the gloss step for decaling is really not worth it.
You need a gloss surface for the decals to not silver and using Future not only provides that, but it also protects the underlying paint from the washes and weathering you will put over it. Work on two models at once and while one is drying from the Future then work on the other.

Mike

Mike;
My Future always tends to come out pebbly. I've played with the air pressure and can't seem to get it right. Will a wetter coat do the job without filling up the panel lines?

Steve

Steve,

Yes a wetter coat does not fill in panel lines that much unless you really spray it on thick, in which case you will have runs also.
Some people just spray two or three lighter coats instead of a heavier coat and seem to have good results with it that way. Give that a try also.
I spray it at about 15-20 psi and hold the airbrush about 3" away.
I have been wondering whether using a drop or two of dishwashing liquid in with the Future in the color cup and mixing it in would help level it out even better?
This might make for an interesting topic in another post that I think I will start.

Mike

Mike;
Thanks, I'll give that a try. I've got a P-40 B, Devastator, Wildcat and a Buffalo all ready for decals and finish. Does the dish soap do the same as the Windex I have?

Steve

Steve,

No, the dishwashing soap should allow the acrylic (Future) to flow a little better because it breaks the surface tension. The Windex may help a little in that regard but I believe it is more of a thinning agent than anything else.
Try some Future in your airbrush and mix in a drop or two of Dawn or Palmolive dishwashing liquid and try it out on a scrap piece of plastic to see the results.

Mike

Steve, no problem with that. The final clear overcoat will supercede or override any underlying sheen on the model and even up everything. So you generally don't need to put in many coats of the overcoat. As a habit, though, I spray at least two coats in case I missed some spots during the first run and as added protection for the underlying paints. Hope this helps.

Cheers,
onyan

Mike and Tony;

Thanks-a-million, I never would have thought of any of the things you guys told me. Hopefully I can get my son to help me get some pics of my results up for all to see.

Steve