Primer Question

Unlike the primer used on a full size car (where you want the primer to be able to fill small pinholes and minor scratches), the primary reason to use primer to locate any defects remaining on the subject. I use light grey colored primer while some folks use flat white primer. If you really want the defects to stand out, shoot on a coat of silver.

When I prime, I use Krylon grey automotive primer. It's a light grey and if carefully misted on, leaves a very nice surface without destroying any small details. Just takes a little practice. And one 4 dollar can will let me prime up to a dozen models (1/72 scale of course). I have tried the Model Master Primer but I don't really care for it's consistancy and the fact that I have to thin it, spray it and then clean up my airbrush. The only thing I have to do with the Krylon is to heat the can (using warm water) and spray. Guess I'm just lazy.

I use only Floquil primer and have been happy with it.

Mike

Hi bezics! Good for you for understanding the importance of a primer as the start of a great paint job! Qmeister gave a great reason for using it. The other reason for using a primer is to even out the surface texture between putty and plastic. Putty is quite porous and paint makes it really stand out. I use a light grey as well but when painting bright colors I switch to a white primer. My favorites are Testor's MM, Gunze Mr. BaseWhite and Tamiya Fine Surface. Hope this helps!

I also have this problem, I am using MR HOBBY primer 1200 spray can (not AB)
once I spray, suddenly the spider web comes out (???) and the primer can't stick to the body properly (I sand paper the body before I begin spraying) where did I done wrong ?? I am a newbie in AB and I am using a lousy USD20 AB bought from Singapore. please advise. thanks.

Hi Butek,

Not sure what your problem is, but I'm assuming that you shook the can properly and thoroughly, so maybe you just got a spray can with a bad or old batch of paint, though I find this unlikely. But before you throw out that can, perhaps you should try what Qmiester does: heat the can in warm water (NOT boiling) for a minute or two, shake it, and then spray. I think this should solve your problem. If not, you may indeed have a bad (used?) can of spray paint. Hope this helps.

Oh, by the way, to the forum!

Cheers,
onyan

Hi ppl!

First all I did post a mesg sometime ago when I scratch my model car (by using 600 grit sand paper) and how to cover it. some of the scars were very deep. Well, from the replies I got and my LHS, they really do gave me some very good tips. What I have experiment here in my room is that;

1. First I'd used remove all the paint by using a can of dot 3 fliud brake.
2. then I clean it
3. I got a fine grit (1000) sand paper to out the scars / scratchs (but if you have very deep scars you need to putty it! i used MrSurface Putty)
4. then I prime using Tamiya White Primer (Make sure it hides the Putty since MrSurface is yellowish)
5. I'd used some fine grit (2000) sandpaper again.
6. Clean it with soap (normal body soap)
7. then I prime it again. (I've prime this is again because of the scars, normally I prime it once)
8. Clean it again.
9. Finally I airbrush the whole car. it does not matter which paint lacquer/arcyilic/enamel
The outcome was great. Basically it hidden all the scars and scratchs. Thank god!

Hope this can help you, and give some info on the important of primer

Thanks for all the comments so far. Does a primer have to have any special properties, or is it just as good to use a standard light grey or white enamel paint as the primer?

to onyan:
thanks mate. I think I didn't shook the can well as primer is a powder not a paint.

QUOTE: Originally posted by bezics Thanks for all the comments so far. Does a primer have to have any special properties, or is it just as good to use a standard light grey or white enamel paint as the primer?

Primer and regular paint are two different beasts altogether. One of primer's main roles is to provide good adhesion to various substrates (plastics being notoriously difficult to get paint to stick), and then give the topcoat some bite. Think of it as the velcro between the substrate and the topcoat. Regular top-coat type paints don't perform this function nearly as well as specifically formulated primers.

Of course, once you go beyond the basics, there's all sorts of other primers - high-build, surfacers, sealers, etching, etc..., but for basic model building, those variants usually don't come into play.

Have u tried Halfords Car Primer comes in White & Grey, I've always used it no probs so far. special offer at the moment 3 for 2 i think.

testors spray primer is good i think