Aztek nozzle cleaning

Lacquer thinner works well for me. Just use it in a well ventilated area.

I don't think you are going to avoid disassembling the nozzels - sorry. Acrylics are especially bad bacause of their faster drying times. The spring in the nozzle becomes clogged with paint. I fought this problem for a year, and finally bought an Omni.

Windex is a good acrylic cleaner.

I use a product from Klean-Strip called Roller and Brush Cleaner to clean all my Aztek parts. It works good and has not caused any damage(even on the body). It removes any kind of paint even if it's been dry for weeks. You do need to use it in a very well ventilated area (outside) as it contains toulene, methanol, acetone, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate and methyl ethyl ketone and can make you sick or kill you.

I've even left nozzels soaking in it for a couple of months and they were totaly unharmed when i took them out. Hope this helps.

Should I soak the nozzles in lacquer thinner? And I know there is a good thread on taking apart the nozzles, but where is it?

Try this

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=28067

Ahhh, thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for.

However, despite the helpfulness of your thread, it will not stop me from getting a badger 155 as soon as I can.

I take apart the nozzle and clean them with no problems. Very careful . But like you, I have been shopping around for a Badger 155 . My Aztek broke and now I gotta send it back for a replacement. I think is time for a new airbrush with less cleaning involved.

Ernie

I have heard that cleaning the 155 is as easy as it gets. In three minute or less some say.

Yup I have heard the same thing. I like the Aztek but it can be at times a pain taking apart the nozzles. One time I drop the needle down the sink.

I just had to finish the paint job and I did not want to spend $10.00 on a new nozzle. Very expensive in my humble opinion. So I took apart the plumbing underneath and fetched it out. Hard lesson.

well ladies and gentlemen, as a 155 owner you are right.. it is LESS than a 3 minute cleanup in most cases...

clean cup, spray thinner, back flush, about every 3rd time remove needle and wipe... thats it!!!! probably like a minute or two... and the day I got this baby home I was doing finer lines than I have ever done... and with practice I am getting better! I was even able to spray a tri-tone WWII navy paint schem without much masking... the middle color I just sprayed on with no overspray...

it's worth the $50.00 for it from dixieart.com the entire kit if you need hoses and such is only $69.95 I think... it's worth waiting and getting it... I also have the Badger 175 and it is a good brush as wellm but it's taking me a little longer to get used to it... but definitely a worthwhile brush as well!!!

tank, the 155 only takes about 3 minutes to clean. I suggest you buy the 155-7 set, includes everything short of the compressor. only bout $60 too. That's the one I bought, and even If I could have bought an Iwata hp-cr I would still have gone with the 155

Excellent. What exactly is this backflushing techniques?

Gents -

Sorry, have to disagree, but with a caveat. Caveat first, I only use MM acrylics, no enamals, no lacquers. I've never taken a nozzle apart, and have some that are 15 - 20 years old, whenever Testors first came out with the Model Master line of airbrushes, pre-Aztek. (Still have and use the same air brush too.) I just do an external cleaning with the tool provided. I do keep the nozzles in a sealed container of water. I've been told that's not a good idea, either, but it hasn't really hurt them much.

Still working fine, so if you need to take them apart, it's your call. If after 20 years, I have to spring for a new nozzle, I can probably afford that, :D.

Archer out.

Like Archer, I haven't had any issues with keeping nozzles clean. I use lacquer thinner, as I posted earlier, with no ill effects noted to the nozzles. A little sparing applied on a cloth will also clean up any spillage on your airbrush body as well.