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Painting molded in details

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  • Member since
    December 2003
Painting molded in details
Posted by cbreeze on Saturday, December 4, 2004 6:26 PM
Greetings,

I would sure apreciate any tips on painting molded in details. that you find on a lot of parts. Some of you guys out there do a real good job and was wondering if anyone could share their techniques. I have to admit though my hand isn't that steady but if I concentrate, I can do a pretty good job.

I am gaining experience with washes and it would seem that you don't have to get really sharp lines between two colors. If you get close, the wash and dry brushing should take care of any problems. Also

Would it help to use two different paints, say enamels for the base color and then acrylics for any details? Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks in advance,

Chuck B.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Saturday, December 4, 2004 7:07 PM
just to make sure, what do you mean by molded in details... like instrument panel bezels and dials?
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Saturday, December 4, 2004 8:58 PM
The thing that helps me the most is a magnifying lamp on a long arm. It allows me to see when the brush is getting close to the surface as well as puts a lot of light right where I need it. I actually have two of them, one is fluorescent and cost $50. The other is incandescent and cost $20. I seldom use the fluorescent one and much prefer the cheap $20 lamp.

Next, nobody's hands are really still enough to paint detail correctly. Hold the brush like you would a pencil, down near the tip. Brace your hands on anything you can find to brace them on, and turn the parts so your wrists aren't strained (strained muscles mean shakes). Paint with somewhat thin paint, use the brush to get a little paint on the part you are painting, then use the brush to push it toward the edges. If you go over the edge a little, don't worry about it. When it's dry use the base color to touch it up again. The closer you can get the edges to correct the less you have to depend on a wash to cover up mistakes.

Some acrylics do not like to be painted over. Specifically Tamiya flat black. Paint over it and the new paint will dissolve what's there. Know your paints and what you can and can't do. If necessary put a layer of Future between colors or use enamel if necessary. I have recently gotten into the habit of painting areas that are going to have a lot of detail with a gloss enamel base (or flat enamel with a coat of Future) and use acrylics for the detailing. If I mess up with the detail it usualy isn't real hard to get the acrylic off without messing up the enamel.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    December 2003
Posted by cbreeze on Saturday, December 4, 2004 10:49 PM
Thanks for the tips.

By molded in detail I am talking more about the hoses, tanks and other odds and ends that are molded into bulkheads and etc. The same technique, I guess, would apply for the cockpit and side panel details. For example, my current project is the 1/48 Tamiya Wilddcat that I am working on. Behind the seat bulkhead is another bulkhead that has a tank molded on the floor. Wanted to paint that a different color. Tried it once and am in the process of doing it again. Good thing I discovered Castrol as a cleaner.

I am just trying to raise my standards to the excellent work I see on this forum.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, December 5, 2004 8:14 AM
ahhh ok, yeah for tanks and such I paint all of them except about 1/16 from the surface they are attached to, then I get out like a 2/0 or 3/0 brush and paint along the seam where the tank touches the surface... and as Scott said with a magnifier. I have a magnifying visor and my one of my work lamps has a magnifier built into it... once I used BOTH to paint something...

instrument panel details can either be drybrushed or done with a silver prismacolor pencil, with the pencil you can turn it at an angle and run it along the bezels then sharpen well and pick out the indicators and incrementations from the inside with the tip. (meaning art pencils from the art store or hobby lobby type stores) then buttons and knobs and stuff can be picked out with a very fine tip brush, I switch between a 3/0 and a 10/0 when doing those knobs. I paint the knob with the 3/0 and clean it up if needed with a 10/0. Silver, red and yellow artists pencils work for this too... you just have to keep them VERY sharp just use the very tip of the point for the knobs...
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: Nowhere. (Long Island)
Posted by Tankmaster7 on Sunday, December 5, 2004 4:45 PM
well, if the molded in detail is large, just airnrush it. I would also get some icrobrushes, as these work well. (the little plastic sticks that look like what remains of a q-tip after the dog got it)
-Tanky Welcome to the United States of America, a subsidiary of Exxon Mobil Corporation, in partnership with Halliburton. Security for your constitutional rights provided by Blackwater International.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Pensacola, FL
Posted by Foster7155 on Sunday, December 5, 2004 4:52 PM
I won't get long-winded with this reply as I think it really boils down to 4 things.

1) An Optivisor or similar magnifing glasses.
2) The smallest, high-quality brushes you can get (I use a 20/0).
3) Properly thinned paint.
4) Patience and a steady hand.

I could throw in "practice", but that should go without saying...

Robert Foster

Pensacola Modeleers

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 5, 2004 5:20 PM
Agree with Foster7155 except on point 2.

Too many people spend too much cash on those 20/0 and similar brushes.
All you really need it a brush that keeps a good point and proper care for it.
Have a look at some of the calligraphy or similar brushes, got good results with those.

Also experiment with different bristle length and grip thicknesses, yep, you got that right thicker grip will result in better control of the brush and longer bristles can help too.
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Sunday, December 5, 2004 5:57 PM
This is the brush that I use They are 20/0 Royal brushes and if I remember right they cost less than $3 at Michaels. The bristles are about 1/4" long and for detail painting I want the SHORTEST bristles I can get. I also want them to come to a sharp point as these do.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    December 2003
Posted by cbreeze on Monday, December 6, 2004 7:25 PM
Just wanted to thank everyone for the responses. Like usual, I got good sound advice. Went to Hobby Lobby and bought some brushes today, I do believe that will help.

CB
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