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How do I simulate a wood fuselage?

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 23, 2004 4:39 PM
The article is a great example. I find using enamels as a base produces a richer looking wood. The oils kinda meld in with the paint, not just slide around ontop of it. Just make sure you let the base cure for at least 72 hours. It's a great technique to use on rifles and diorama furniture also. I like to use Humbrol 63 as a base and 1:1 raw umber and burnt sienna oils.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Bicester, England
Posted by KJ200 on Wednesday, December 22, 2004 1:51 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by danok2

Tom,

Check out this link:

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/03/stuff_eng_tech_wood_grain.htm

Might even be the kit you're working on!

-Dan



I saw that build on Hyperscale, and thought of it imediately when I saw your post.

That is a truly stunning build, but I'm sure you can equal it.

Karl

Currently on the bench: AZ Models 1/72 Mig 17PF

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 21, 2004 7:27 PM
What about the method where you paint the fuselage or prop in the light color -- MM wood is what I use on props -- then, when it is dry, use a wide brush with most of the paint wiped off to get a grain effect. I've heard of it, but never seen it tried or tried it myself, and I certainly am not going to risk a 40-something-dollar kit on my dubious painting skills.
Does any one use this technique?
Tom
PS Thanks for the tips and the link. And yes, I just looked. It is the same kit, only an earlier release. God, I can match that model only in my wildest fantasies. That website never ceases to dazzle me.
  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: Kennesaw, GA
Posted by jdavidb on Tuesday, December 21, 2004 6:22 PM
Yeah that link is about the same as I was saying only that's acrylic first, oil for the grain. Where I was saying oil as the base and watercolor for the grain. Both ways around are good ideas for keeping the two colors from blending in too much and creating nothing but one new color.
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Waxhaw, NC
Posted by danok2 on Tuesday, December 21, 2004 3:20 PM
Tom,

Check out this link:

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/03/stuff_eng_tech_wood_grain.htm

Might even be the kit you're working on!

-Dan
"Ahh, the Luftwaffe. The Washington Generals of the History Channel."-Homer Simpson
  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: Kennesaw, GA
Posted by jdavidb on Tuesday, December 21, 2004 2:38 PM
My favorite way to do wood is to use one of those light tan enamels as the base coat. One of those shades is called "wood" Big Smile [:D] That might sound perfect, but that particular shade turns out a bit darker once the rest of the stuff is done. So, another paint to consider is "sand". Once the base is on, you can just mark the woodgrain in with a watercolor pencil of any darker shade of tan, brown or gray you want. If you don't think it is blended enough at that point, you can go back over it drybrushing with the base color or lightly work in those watercolors with a damp brush. They're watercolors, so water is what you're supposed to use. I use spit heheheh just kiddin'
  • Member since
    November 2005
How do I simulate a wood fuselage?
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 21, 2004 1:06 PM
One of my favorite WW I a/c is the Albatross, but I have never built one. Why? Because I have absolutely no faith in my ability to paint anything that requires simulating bare wood. The only thing I do is props, and they could use plenty of improvement. Struts aren't so bad because they were often painted or heavily stained with varnish. So here's my situation:
I just got a brand new Albatross DIII by Eduard in their Limited Edition series, and it is an absolutely beautiful kit, with masks, lots of PE parts and, best of all, a big sheet of superbly colorful decals for equally brilliantly colored schemes. However, all but one of the four options requires major parts of the fuselage to be in natural wood. (The other scheme is a really elaborately applied three-color overall mottle.)
Can someone give me pointers on how best to simulate these light-wood fuselages on the Albatrosses?
TOM
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