What is the best paint for aircrushing?

hey Perry, Happy Holidays to you too!!

If you do a search for acrylics or enamel in this thread you will come up with a TON of answers to your question...

Basically it boils down to personal preference...

The basics are:

Acrylics: clean up easier, no noxious smell, less irritable to those around you like kids and sensitive people in your house, paint can be washed up with water if you spill some.

Cons are less adhesion to the model than enamel

Enamels: Great adhesion to the model, more of a pre-mixed selection (some would argue this, but if you dont order your paints online a lot of hobby shops won't have the complete line of acrylics, some will, it depends on your area Hobby Shops)

Cons: needs a respirator to safely be sprayed, more of a cleanup when airbrushing, can be harmful to those in the house not wearing a respirator if they are sensitive (allergies) or with prolonged exposure.

Even though I listed more cons with enamel, it is more widely used... I think you should search a little in more in this topic and get a more rounded picture and decide... there are those who swear by one or the other, and those who ride the fence and use both like me!

Perry -

Pretty much agree with tho. Enamals will give you a higher gloss, and do have better adhesion than Acrylics. But ... The ease of clean-up and lack of noxious fumes with acrylics is hard to argue with. All I use these days are the MM Acryls. Happily, my local shops have a pretty good supply on hand, and thay can be sprayed right out of the bottle with good results.

Just make sure that your AB is acrylic friendly, as the acrylics dry quickly, there's always a chance for buildup around the nozzle. It's easily cleaned, but you should be ready for it.

Archer out.

i like model master enamels, tamitya acrylics and i hear vallejo is really good.

If you are going to use Enamules why not just go to Lacquer and you have better selection of paint also you can (If you do automotive) can get the Lacquer in small stuff from auto body shops. But i would use the Water base but use a Lacquer Clear so it will shine up for you real nice.

Enamel performs great except for any color lighter than yellow. That would be white. White enamels start turning brown over time. White is a hassle no matter what unless you just pay the $5 for a spray can of Tamiya synthetic lacquer plus even more for the white primer that goes with it.

I use mostly acrylics, specifically Tamiya, Model Master, and PolyScale. I agree that enamels adhere better and give a better gloss in most cases, however I usually want a flat finish anyway. The ease of cleanup means a lot to me.

Whatever you decide to use I'd strongly recommend wearing a respirator while spraying. The inside of your lungs were not meant to be coated with paint and they are difficult to replace.

FWIW, for white surfaces I notmally use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer in rattle cans. It is a laquer, covers very well, and since it's in a rattle can I can take it outside to spray. It also provides a very good base for acrylics.

Perry,

Not much I can add to the already excellent information you have been given so far. I say go to the hobby shop and buy a few different types and brands of paints and try each of them and see what suits you best.
Some people love Tamiya acrylics, some prefer MM Acryl, while others use MM and Humbrol enamels. It is a personal thing more than what is the best.
The same goes for your airbrush. What works for you is the "best" one for you to have.

Mike

Thanks!

Seeing as no one else has mentioned them, I will, Gunze acrylics.

These are great, and I know of several other forum members who swear by them, rather than at them. just use Tamiya acrylic thinner and you won't go wrong.

Best of luck.

Karl

I haven't used Gunze, but have heard many good things about them... Vallejo is my acrylic of choice now... in fact slowly everything but my mettalic colors are being replaced with Vallejo... goes on thin, nice smooooooth finish.... best thing is they are in bottle with dropper tops so you can get pretty tight ratios of paint to thinner... (i.e. 15 drops paint, 5 drops thinner etc...) I've heard at least one person say that they have had adhesion problems but I haven't had any yet (knock on wood)

QUOTE: Originally posted by tho9900 I've heard at least one person say that they have had adhesion problems but I haven't had any yet (knock on wood)

That was me as a result of not priming!

After I primed they went on fine, but I'm, sticking with Gunze all the same.

Karl