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Badger 155 help

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Badger 155 help
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 16, 2005 6:20 PM
Just got my 155 a few days ago, i'm loving it so far(even i've just been getting used to it).
I just have a few questions on genral tips really

1.Cleaning, how do you guys keep it clean any good tips?
2.I've been practising my fine lines, but sometimes they get a little patchy or not contsant,could my pressure be to low?
3.when i do thin lines now and then the splatter,hard to explain but, i could be doin a line but the sides might blow out at the side (i'm i confusing you?). Basically it will look like millipead.
4. For my air compressor do i need to set it at different levels for different tasks?

Thanks for your time againCool [8D]
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Sunday, January 16, 2005 6:29 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Ason
1.Cleaning, how do you guys keep it clean any good tips?


Cleaning a Siphon-feed airbrush

I like to spray out the airbrush at higher pressures and use 50 psi myself, but if yours only puts out 20-30 then just use as much pressure as you can.

Dump the excess paint out and wipe the cup with a paper towel or rag.
Fill the cup about ½-¾ of the way with cleaner and then take an old paintbrush and wipe around inside the cup and down in the bottom of the cup around the needle with it to break loose the paint particles. Just dab it into the needle area in the bottom of the cup and it cleans very well.
I like a flat paintbrush about 3/8” wide, but you can use what you want. Just make sure the paintbrush is not one of those real cheap ones that the hairs fall out of, as you don’t want the hair getting into the airbrush and possibly causing problems down the road.

After that, spray the cleaner out of the airbrush.
You can now look into the cup to see how well you cleaned it.
If you see paint particles around the bottom of the cup still, then add a few drops of cleaner to the cup and dab the paintbrush into that area to break it loose, and fill the cup up about ½ way again with cleaner, wipe around in the cup with the paintbrush again and spray that out.
Wipe the inside of the cup with a soft rag or paper towel to clean any paint on the sides of the cup that may still be there. An old cotton T-shirt works good for this.
If you still see any residual paint particles, then once again dab the paintbrush around inside the cup with a few drops of cleaner in the bottom of the cup.

Fill the cup halfway with cleaner once more and hold a rag over the end of the airbrush to stop air from coming out of the tip. Push down on the trigger and pull back slowly and you will bubbles in the color cup as you are back flushing the airbrush. If you use high pressures to clean like I do then be careful doing this because if you have lacquer or other toxic cleaners in the cup and you pull the trigger back too far, it can shoot the cleaner up out of the cup and possibly into your eyes. That is why I say to pull the trigger back slowly until you get a pretty good amount of bubbles coming back into the cup. Do this for maybe 5 seconds or so and then look to see if any paint particles have appeared in the cup. Sometimes you will see paint particles, and sometimes you don’t, but I mention this just to let you see that back flushing can clean areas that just spraying out the airbrush can sometimes miss.
If there were very little paint particles in the cup from back flushing, then spray that cleaner out, fill the cup about ¼ way once more with cleaner and spray that out.

Remove the color cup, turn the airbrush over and clean inside the siphon-tube opening with a cotton swab soaked in thinner or cleaner for your paint type.
Also clean the siphon tube of the color cup with a pipe cleaner or brush soaked in thinner.
After it is good and clean then put the cup back into the airbrush and fill the cup ¾ of the way with filtered or distilled water for acrylics or thinner for enamels and spray that all out.
You can fill it about ½ way once more if you like and spray that out also, but if it seems clean enough it is not necessary.
Some people like to then just spray air through the airbrush for several seconds to dry out the insides, but that is up to you. Sometimes I do it and sometimes I don’t.
Now wipe the inside of the cup out with a rag, wipe any paint off the outside of the airbrush and you are done.

About every 4 or 5 times of using the airbrush I will take the needle out after cleaning the airbrush and wipe it off with a rag with some thinner on it to get any paint that may have not gotten cleaned quite well enough in previous cleanings. I then apply Badger Needle Juice or Medea Super Lube to the needle to help eliminate tip dry and keep paint from adhering to the needle. I also like a drop on the trigger to make it smoother as well as putting a drop on my finger and rubbing it around inside the color cup to make paint removal easier when cleaning.
These two products do not affect paint at all and are safe with enamels, lacquers, acrylics, and urethanes.

Every airbrush expert I know does not recommend disassembly to clean it each time and I agree.
Disassembling the airbrush each time is not necessary and I don’t personally recommend it because the potential of damaging the needle, tip, needle bearing, and other parts increases each time you take it apart. Some people feel it is better to take it apart each time and give it a thorough cleaning, and you have to make that decision yourself.

QUOTE: 2.I've been practising my fine lines, but sometimes they get a little patchy or not contsant,could my pressure be to low?


Possibly, yes. What pressure are you spraying at?

QUOTE: 3.when i do thin lines now and then the splatter,hard to explain but, i could be doin a line but the sides might blow out at the side (i'm i confusing you?). Basically it will look like millipead.


That is called, "Spider webbing" and it caused from having the airbrush in one spot too long. The paint puddles and spreads out resembling a spider web. Keep the airbrush moving at a constant pace and that will go away. It takes practice.

QUOTE: 4. For my air compressor do i need to set it at different levels for different tasks?


Yes. For general coverage you may want 20-25 psi possibly and if you want the finest lines with the least amount of overspray then you will want somewhere around 15 psi, even lower if the airbrush will reliably spray it.

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, January 16, 2005 8:31 PM
Hey Ason! Good brush you got there! One thing is, practice makes perfect... you'll get better every time! (I still am... slooowly haha)

Lower pressure means finer detail/lines... on my 155 I can get down to about 12 or so psi and be able to do pretty good detail... with the metal color cup I can get down just below 10 and get better fine lines...

Thing is, depending on how small you model you might not need those fine of lines... typically the millipede thing happens to me when I put too much paint on or have the nozzle too close... try reducing the amount of paint you are putting out or pulling back a little from the paper... next thought is maybe you are thinning a little too much.. I find for fine lines I usually BARELY pulling back on the trigger and moving at a constant fast movement (not too fast or you'll get gaps or fading) Try spraying on a fresh sheet of paper and use different volumes of paint/pressures/distances from the paper and I think you will get it down in no time!

good luck! if that doesnt work come back and maybe we can find something that works for ya!
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
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