help... newbie here

If you have the vinyl hose you'll need an adapter to go from 1/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT so that your airbrush hose will mate with your compressor. 1/4" NPT is common for compressors but if yours is different you'll need and adapter for it. Badger makes them and you can see them on this page:
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/access2.htm
It is about halfway down the page and is part number 50-023. Dixie Art (www.dixieart.com) has them for about $5 and I've also seen them at many hobby shops.

Air pressure and paint viscosity are related. The thinner the paint the less pressure you need, but at the same time thin paint does not cover as well. Start with about 15 to 20 psi and adjust as necessary. You should never need more than about 20 psi for painting models.

Be aware that Createx paints, at least the kinds that I've used, are not suitable for models. The paint won't adhere to plastic well enough. Try Tamiya, Testors Model Master, Gunzye Sangyo, Poly Scale, or one of the other paints designed for plastic models.

alright thanx, but i can shoot model paint trought and air brush, it wont hurt it at all?( like i said a complete noob) and by the way what is the best way to clean an airbrush ?

Laquers, enamels, or acrylics for models will not hurt that airbrush at all. I've got one here that is around 12 years old and still works fine. I prefer my double action brushes, but still use it for some things.

One word of warning about it though, and this is in the instructions somewhere it's just not very obvious. There is a Teflon washer between the head and body. Over time that washer will flatten causing the spray to pulsate. The best way to preserve it is to loosen the head when you put the airbrush away.

As to cleaning, Check This Topic MikeV has comprehensive instructions in it for cleaning siphon-feed airbrushes.

umm, i cant lossen the head.. its to tight.


ummm that might be a problem

The head itself has two flats machined on it for using a wrench to loosen it. Hold the body where the trigger and airvalve are, and use a wrench or pliers to loosen the head. I think most of the Badger brushes come with a wrench to be used for that purpose. If you use pliers wrap the jaws with a layer of masking tape to protect the finish of the head.

you may want to consider a moisture trap for a big compressor as well. Moisture in the tank and line will destroy your finish, especially with solvent based paints.

umm. mine dosent have flats. it has like lines machined in them for grip. but i'll try the pliers with masking tape. and i'll check out the moisture traps, should i be looking for any certian brands or types?

A simple moisture trap can be had in the paint section (near the air tools) of your local home store, Menards , etc..

alright thanx

When you start airbrushing you should use a good painter's respirator. You should not be able to smell fumes while airbrushing with it on.
When starting out it is probably best to use the thinners made by the manufacturer of the paints you are using. For example, Testors has airbrush thinner for their Model Master paints (works for their regular line of paints too). Just be sure you get the right stuff for enamel or acrylic paints depending on what you are using.
Just have fun with the models and the airbrushing for now. Showpiece models will come in the future

Dave

i went to the store today, and all i could find were air filters, are those the same things as moisture traps? it was kinda a crappy hardware store, i'll check the better ones if thats not a moisture trap.