Aztek Airbrush

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 27, 2004 4:29 PM

I am an Aztek buyer and I found the best thing that helps me is to have a bottle of rubbing alchohol and permenantly keep my nozzles in there. I take the nozzle out, spay with it and when I am done I return it to its resting place, always replacing the alcholhol as needed. That way any left over paint (I use Acrylics) thats still in the nozzle will not dry and can be easily sprayed out for next use. It works for me. I also mostly use the white nozzle for all applications.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 26, 2004 9:08 PM

I hope I did not make a mistake here , I am just getting back into modelling,which I have been away for some years now ,I used to hand paint my aircraft ,tanks ,cars and ships. Now I just got two Aztek airbrushes 220 and 470, I hope I did not make a mistake. I would like to know is there any canadians on this forum who use Co2 for air supply.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 26, 2004 6:12 PM

not me... i soaked one in super powerful lacquor, stuff powerful enough to blind you and to melt abs styrene or polystyrene 1/4 in think in under a minnute... stupid aztek, wish they would use needles instead :<

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 25, 2004 11:25 AM

QUOTE: Originally posted by unnamedplayer

kik36: good going, your absolutly right

-Aztek airbrushes are made of plastic, so they dissolve and you buy another one
-aztek airbrushes are cheap, so you can buy many
-aztek airbrushes are MADE to be broken, then bought again. repeat as nessicary
-aztek airbrushes are so bad you use it once, then put it in the case
-aztek airbrushes come in wooden cases so you can throw them in a fire and they will melt and burn
-the nozzles are made only to use once, contrary to popular belief

I have used an Aztek for many years now and I once "forgot" an Aztek tip in lacquer thinner (which is pretty aggressive stuff) for a period of 3 weeks and when I pulled it out of the pot it was in perfect condition and I continued to use it long afterwards without any change in performance. The bottom line is: your tips have to be squeeky clean. I take them appart to clean them.
Testors claims that they resist to pretty much all known chemicals and it seems to be the case.
As for the body, avoit soaking it. I use Q-tips and a folded over pipe cleaner dipped in thinner to clean around the trigger needle pin where in goes into the body while giving a back an forth motion to the trigger to move the pin in and out as I clean the pin.
As far as cleaning solutions go, I use Alcohol (70% Isopropyl) for when Tamiya acrylics are not dried yet and use lacquer thinner for when its dried up as well as for enamels.

10 years of Aztek use and quite satisfied !!!

Happy painting !

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tweety1

Member since
August 2003
From: Alice Springs Australia

Posted by tweety1 on Wednesday, February 25, 2004 2:43 AM

I have no idea why so many people have trouble with Ateks and their nozzles using acrylic paints.

All I use in the 470 is acrylics, and only 1 nozzle, the tan one.

It's been 2 years now, and the nozzle has NEVER clogged on me, and only twice has the brush itself failed me and needed a damn good cleaning.
Otherwise she still gives clean spray patterns and nice fine lines.

Paints I use are Gunze Sangyo and Tamiya, both thinned with Tamiya X-20A, doesnt matter if they are flat or gloss or any inbetween.

I must add that all my paint/thinner mixes are done with a 60 cc syringe, so maybe I have found the correct balance to suit my brush type.

Dont get me wrong, this does not make me an Aztek only man, but till I can find a Badger, or maybe an Omni for a decent price here in Australia, then I'll use what I've got.

--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 24, 2004 11:06 PM

I retired my Aztek after having too many nozzles getting clogged up inside. I had to disassemble the whole nozzle to clean it, but during this process some of them got damaged so I got fed up with spending money on new nozzles. Other than that the Aztek was a very good airbrush.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 24, 2004 11:02 PM

Those acrylic nozzles are pretty much worthless. They aren't really better than the regular nozzles. The only difference is that the tip is exposed for easier cleaning. The only thing you get with the exposed needle is poking yourself with it, and it makes it very easy to damage the tip.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 24, 2004 10:54 PM

I can get a finer line with my Badger 360 than with my Aztek tan tip. I have trouble with the tan tip not clogging with acrylic paint.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 23, 2004 6:44 PM

kik36: good going, your absolutly right

-Aztek airbrushes are made of plastic, so they dissolve and you buy another one
-aztek airbrushes are cheap, so you can buy many
-aztek airbrushes are MADE to be broken, then bought again. repeat as nessicary
-aztek airbrushes are so bad you use it once, then put it in the case
-aztek airbrushes come in wooden cases so you can throw them in a fire and they will melt and burn
-the nozzles are made only to use once, contrary to popular belief

proper useage of aztek

remove aztek from storage inside case
attempt to use
get frustrated when it jams
put aztek in wood case
throw in fire
buy iwata or badger or t&c
repeat as nessicary

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tweety1

Member since
August 2003
From: Alice Springs Australia

Posted by tweety1 on Monday, February 23, 2004 8:37 AM

[:0][:0][:0][:0]
Ooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!

Me needum 360 big mobs................................................. Wink [;)]

Wonder if I can get one in this God forsaken country for under $600 bucks?

"snort"

I doubt it.

Back to nagging for christmas.

Disapprove [V]

--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???

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MikeV

Member since
April 2003
From: Hayward, CA

Posted by MikeV on Sunday, February 22, 2004 9:54 AM

tweety1,

I have a Badger 360 that I just received a few weeks back and I posted some of the results I had with it along with two other Badgers on the forum a while back.
Here is the photo again. I used Model Master Acryl Flat Black for this on a piece of pellon material which is a polyester type material used for practice in T-shirt airbrushing. The small plastic ruler next to the surface is in millimeters.

Mike

“Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon

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tweety1

Member since
August 2003
From: Alice Springs Australia

Posted by tweety1 on Sunday, February 22, 2004 3:07 AM

Ok, a question to the Badger 360 users.

How fine a line can the airbrush spray?

Yes I realise it depends on mix, pressure and experience, but just generally.
I can get the Aztec 470 down to 1 mm, only cause I've had it for so long (experience).

I'm curious to know how good this brush is.

--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???

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MikeV

Member since
April 2003
From: Hayward, CA

Posted by MikeV on Saturday, February 21, 2004 3:57 PM

QUOTE: Originally posted by jimz66

Mike how many colors might you use in an average painting session? That is actually a little less often then I thougt you would have to do.

I usually only spray one or two colors each time I paint.
After I am done painting I flush the airbrush out good with thinner, wipe the color cup clean and use a Q-tip with thinner to wipe any paint off that I couldn't get off with a clean paper towel and wipe the outside off. That is about it.
After maybe three or four painting sessions I will break it down and clean the needle off with thinner, clean the tip out with thinner and then relube the needle again with Badger Needle Juice or Medea Super Lube.

Now this is dependant on how much you are painting also as you alluded to.
If I were spraying a lot of paint over a long period of time than I would probably break it down every other time. If I did not use the lube in the airbrush I would probably break it down every time as there is nothing to protect the needle from paint adhesion.

Mike

“Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon

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jridge

Member since
April 2003
From: West Des Moines, IA USA

Posted by jridge on Saturday, February 21, 2004 3:14 PM

The asymmetrical spray pattern may be caused by a burr on the needle? If you feel a snag as you gently pull the needle across your finger tip, you have a burr.

Gentle sanding with 1000+ grit sand paper may remove it or you just bought yourself a new nozzle....

From a former, frustrated Aztec user.

Jim

Jim The fate of the Chambermaid http://30thbg.1hwy.com/38thBS.html

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jimz66

Member since
December 2002
From: Winsted CT

Posted by jimz66 on Saturday, February 21, 2004 2:05 PM

Mike how many colors might you use in an average painting session? That is actually a little less often then I thougt you would have to do.

Phantoms rule the skies!!!

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MikeV

Member since
April 2003
From: Hayward, CA

Posted by MikeV on Saturday, February 21, 2004 12:22 PM

QUOTE: Originally posted by jimz66

Those of you who own metal airbrushes: How often do you need to strip them all apart? After ever color? After every session?

I take it apart and clean it thoroughly after every 3 or 4 painting sessions.

Mike

“Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon

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jimz66

Member since
December 2002
From: Winsted CT

Posted by jimz66 on Saturday, February 21, 2004 11:51 AM

I do not see myself wanting anything to do with any of those metal airbrushes. I do not want o clean them. I do not do well with the littel pieces. I love the one I have and do not intend to switch.

Those of you who own metal airbrushes: How often do you need to strip them all apart? After ever color? After every session?

I can not see myself willing to spend that kind of time or effort when it isn't neccessary.

Phantoms rule the skies!!!

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tweety1

Member since
August 2003
From: Alice Springs Australia

Posted by tweety1 on Saturday, February 21, 2004 8:42 AM

I have the 470 also.

Have used it for many years, on many models, and took about 2 months practice to get the paint/thinner ratio just right.
For this I use a syringe that I got from my father, he's diabetic.

Any way, there have only been 2 occasions where I had total blockage of my brush.

First was incorrect mixture. Too thin and it leaked back into the actual body of the brush gumming up the trigger assembly. Required a total strip and clean.

Second was just recently using Alclad II, same again, too thin and leaked back into body. I thought maybe wear and tear had set in, but using my normal acrylic paint mix I had no problem, so go figure.

Eventually I will purchase a Badger or an Iwata, when the boss lets me that is, but till then the Aztek has done, and will continue to do the job.

--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???

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jimz66

Member since
December 2002
From: Winsted CT

Posted by jimz66 on Saturday, February 21, 2004 8:20 AM

Tango 1 Intersting technique you described with the airbrush cleaner. Do you recomend any specific brand?

I have two Aztecs. I have never had nor will I ever buy any other. I love them. Although I am just getting started again. I have had my first one since High School I have used it in college for three or four dirfferent classes. I took Design and Pottery and used my Aztecs for both.

As for my current cleaning methods I flush it with Laquer Thinner. I flush around two ounces through every time I change colors. I use the cleaning nozzle wrench and some Q-tips to clean the inside of the brush as well as the inside of the nozzles. I take off the outer shells only. I have to try some of the other ideas mentioned here.

In case you were wondering I have the 3000 and the 470.

I hope that this helps.

Phantoms rule the skies!!!

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South Aussie

Member since
August 2003
From: South Australia

Posted by South Aussie on Saturday, February 21, 2004 3:50 AM

I have, in times past, had this problem but since using this cleaning technique I have never had this problem re-occur or had to pull the nozzle assembly apart..

Cleaning Technique

(1) As each color is finished spray the appropriate thinner through the airbrush until the spray is clear, before commencing with new color. A word of warning if you are going to change paint types ie Acrylic to enamel it pays to go through all five steps at this time to prevent the solvents from reacting with each other within the nozzle.

(2) At completion of airbrushing session repeat step 1,

(3) Remove nozzle then clean the mouth of air brush. paint enter ports and rear of nozzle. Replace nozzle into brush.

(4) Spray soapy water through airbrush followed by clean water.

(5) Pass air through airbrush untill there is no sign of spray comming from nozzle.

With the Aztek brush cleaniness is really important.

Wayne I enjoy getting older, especially when I consider the alternative.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 20, 2004 8:59 PM

The wooden case is so you can chuck the whole thing into the fireplace!!!

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 20, 2004 4:36 PM

QUOTE: Originally posted by twistedkrusty

using a diff airbrush sometimes helps, cuz the atomize bbetter

listen to this man, he know something some people dont know!!! ie aztek factory

so go with the flow, use a good airbrush, instead of a "$90 plastic build-it-yourself-airbrush-that-requires-$13-nozzles-that-require-replacing-every-paint-job-and-customer-survace-that-is-worse-than-aol"

goe with a "$69-iwata-revolution-airbrush-that-is-almost-like-an-hp-c-but-is-cheaper"

i think i know why aztek airbrushes come with wooden cases: use them once, you will hate them, put them in the case, and never think about your mistake again

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 19, 2004 6:23 PM

also extended use of the aztek airbrush seems to create complications because of the paint leak behind the nozzle, really fun to clean :)

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 19, 2004 5:22 PM

using a diff airbrush sometimes helps, cuz the atomize bbetter

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jcarlberg

Member since
December 2002
From: USA

Posted by jcarlberg on Thursday, January 23, 2003 3:01 PM

A similar procedure is helpful in cleaning my Badger 150, too. I call it "backflushing". I use Acryl Cleaner for acrylics or lacquer thinner for enamels, and apply a soaked cotton swab to the nozzle after pulling the button back to retract the needle so as not to damage it. I then fire air through the brush which seems to clean all the paint plumbing as well as the inside of the nozzle.

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TANGO 1

Member since
December 2002
From: A secret workshop somewhere in England

Posted by TANGO 1 on Thursday, January 23, 2003 11:37 AM

I use the same method as djmodels which in my opinion is the best way to get the nozzles completely clean.
But here's a little trick I learnt that will save you having to clean your nozzles so often.
While you still have your air turned on, take a can of airbrush cleaner and spray two quick bursts into the paint port. Then spray the same ammount onto the end of the nozzle. Cover the open port and the end of the nozzzle with you fingers and press down on the trigger twice.
When the air is blocked by your finger over the nozzle , the cleaning agent will run around all of the internal parts of the nozzle and airbrush dissolving any paint inside.
Take your fingers away and let some air through and it's done.
Since using this method, I only have to take the nozzles apart once a year now. I hope this helps you out.
Regards,
Darren.

Regards, Darren. C.A.G. FAA/USNFAW GB

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 19, 2003 10:30 PM

I have two Aztek airbrushes that I use for metalizers only. After spraying, I disassemble the nozzles and soak them in metalizer thinner. I have'nt had any problems doing this.

Mark

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therriman

Member since
January 2003
From: Central MI

Posted by therriman on Sunday, January 19, 2003 10:12 PM

I too use an Aztek Airbrush and found out on my own that you had to take it all the way apart to the needle to get it completely clean. I have since decided that I'm using the Aztek as a "trainer". Once I get good enough I plan on buying either a Badger or some other professional model.

Tim H. "If your alone and you meet a Zero, run like hell. Your outnumbered" Capt Joe Foss, Guadalcanal 1942 Real Trucks have 18 wheels. Anything less is just a Toy! I am in shape. Hey, Round is a shape! Reality is a concept not yet proven.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 16, 2003 5:10 AM

As far as I can tell from the "Modeler's Technical Guide", published by Model Master, there are two nozzles suited specifically to acrylics (9342C and 9343C) but both appear to for covering large areas. I have a 9342C but have used it only once and can confirm that it has a wide diameter jet.

I tend to use mostly the grey and tan nozzles on 72nd scale aircraft, which gave me good results (good, to my standard) in the early days. Now that I can clean the little devils perhaps I can improve with a bit of practice.

Thanks again for the help.

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