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First NMF...advice?!?

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  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Philomath, OR, USA
First NMF...advice?!?
Posted by knight667 on Thursday, March 10, 2005 11:23 AM
I'm starting in on my first NMF experiment, Monogram's 1/48 P-38 Lightning kit. Assembly is going well, and I'll be ready to paint in a few days. I've already got myself some MM Aluminum Metalizer for the job (I know, most of you guys/gals swear by Alcad).

Now here are my questions:
1) Priming in black is recommended for NMF, right?
2) I should paint all other colors (like wing tips, etc) first and mask them before spraying the NMW, instead of the other way around, right?
3) I shouldn't need a clear coat after the NMF has set up, right?
4) If I chose to use a clear coat, would Future mess up the finish?

Any help, as usual, is most appreciated! You guys/gals are great! Big Smile [:D]
John "The only easy day was yesterday." - US Navy SEALs "Improvise. Adapt. Overcome." - US Marine Corp. "I live each day/Like it's my last/...I never look back" - from "I'm A Rocker" by Judas Priest
  • Member since
    July 2003
Posted by schulerwb24 on Thursday, March 10, 2005 12:31 PM
I have used MM exclusively for all metal finishes. From my experience, black is not required with MM metalics, however it doesn't hurt. MM can go right over bare plastic, use several thin coats to keep it from crazing the plastic. I usually prime all my models with good old Testors Flat Grey, several heavy coats. Because, I usually have imperfections in the plastic and filler material that need to be fixed. After all the imperfections are fixed, I spray it with a coat or two of Flat Grey again, without doing any sanding on it. This leaves a good, smooth coat to work with. Then, will overcoat with a gloss coat if I want a real shinny metal finish. I use either white or black. Then, apply the metal finish. Apply a thin to medium coat, does not have to cover completely. Let dry for no less than 10 minutes, then buff it out with a soft rag until it turns the flat finish to the shiny metal color . I have been using SNJ powder, brings out a good color and does not take as long as just using just a soft rag. Then put another coat on and buff again. Three coats ususally gives all the coverage needed.

Let it dry for a week, then follow up with Future all over to seal it. You loose a little of the metal petina, but still looks great. It seals the surface and decals go on great.

MM has to be sealed or it comes off on your hands and fingerprints show and are permanent.

That's how I have been using MM metalics for years, want to get into Alcad as it is reported to be more durable than MM.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Thursday, March 10, 2005 9:01 PM
You got it along with Schuler's comments. I've used both and continue to use both Alclad & MM. The problem with MM is as described, it comes off on your hands, decals don't stick as well also. So I've gotten to usling Alclad for large coverage. But for smaller areas or some little piece, I sometimes us MM in a spraycan, its just so easy.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 11, 2005 11:25 AM
Whether you use MM or Alclad, prior to painting you need to rub the model clean to get rid of finger prints. Depending on the humidity, be very careful with dust that got stuck on the model by static electricty. You don't want dust to be sealed in by the paint.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Perth, Western Australia
Posted by madmike on Friday, March 11, 2005 6:36 PM
Personally I find MM BMF far to fragile and prefer Tamiya AS-12 BMF Lacquer. Alcad is a rock solid BMF as well.

AS-12 can be masked over without lifting or marking and can be sprayed over a primer. This is a bonus if you have filled areas.

cheers

Mike
"I do not feel obliged to believe that the same God who has endowed us with sense, reason, and intellect has intended us to forgo their use." - Galileo Galilei
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