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Horror Show! Some orange peel and other paint questions

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  • Member since
    November 2004
  • From: Freeport, IL USA
Posted by cdclukey on Tuesday, March 22, 2005 4:39 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by woodbeck3

mighta been that wally world paint. If its possible to you, get another brand of the white you need and try it.


Actually, I doubt that, because the whole reason I was confident enough to use the Wally World paint was because I read this thread...

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37406

...and it looked good to go. I figure it's more likely either the lack of primer or me doing something dumb.

QUOTE: Get out your strong arm and get to sanding Wink [;)]


Yes sir. *SIGH*
  • Member since
    November 2004
  • From: Freeport, IL USA
Posted by cdclukey on Tuesday, March 22, 2005 4:23 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Hatewall

there is an unwritten law of professional model builders.....

PRIME EVERYTHING.


But now it's a written law...;-)

Seriously though, I'll take that into account, and thank you for the advice. And no, I certainly don't insist on not priming, I want this thing to look good and get built! I've got two kinds of auto primer sitting around, I'll test shoot them on a sprue before using, but if I have to run to the LHS for primer, so be it.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 22, 2005 4:12 PM
Hatewall is right... fine sanding and priming is the way to go.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 22, 2005 6:52 AM
there is an unwritten law of professional model builders.....

PRIME EVERYTHING.

When the paint has no "tooth" to grip, it shrinks while drying and pulls apart. I prime everything, no matter how small before painting.

It is also possible that you sprayed too heavy. This causes the top of the paint to get a skin on it while staying soft underneath. the skin will dry faster and shrink while sliding over the softer paint. It's best not to try to get full coverage in one coat, especially with solvent based paints.

If you insist on not priming, get a plastic paint such as Kryolon Fusion.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, March 21, 2005 11:24 PM
mighta been that wally world paint. If its possible to you, get another brand of the white you need and try it. If you have the same problem again its the plastic, and no kinda cleaning isnt gonna help that. youll have to use primer first.

Get out your strong arm and get to sanding Wink [;)]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, March 21, 2005 1:03 PM
Sounds like bad paint to me. White is commonly full of problems due to the heavy pigment. So clean up the bad paint sand it smooth and get some new paint. Shake well (the paint) and place in some fairly hot water to increase can pressure. Don't fight it just regroup and restart.

Dan
  • Member since
    November 2004
  • From: Freeport, IL USA
Horror Show! Some orange peel and other paint questions
Posted by cdclukey on Monday, March 21, 2005 12:01 PM
OK, I looked up some other threads about orange peel and it seems the only way to deal with it is to sand and reshoot. OK, I'll do that. However, I want to be sure that I'm not causing the problem in the first place. So, here's what I did, tell me if the orange peel (and other flaws) are "just one of those things" or my fault.

I was painting an old USS Oregon kit (Glencoe) from the 80s. It has been thoroughly cleaned in warm, soapy water. Note that the kit was in very good condition after storage, I'm even using the original decals.

My paint was gloss white in a WalMart rattle can.

My paint booth was homemade. I used a box that used to hold a clothes dryer. I cut out a hatch in the front that is about 2 feet by 2 feet. There is a furnace filter (brand new) at the back.

The paint seemed to be going on just fine when I sprayed. Immediately after spraying I placed the parts under a box to protect them from dust. The box has a couple of holes cut in it to provide air circulation, and the holes are covered with coffee filters.

Note that some of the parts had Testors flat white on them, and some didn't. Results were similar on both sets of parts. Besides the orange peel, there was some crazing (probably not the right term) that looked like the all-right-angles crack pattern that forms in lead housepaints, except that the pattern was raised instead of cracked. This occurred in a few small isolated areas, and the finish around those areas is generally good and free of orange peel.

So...I know I probably need to add a fan downstream of the filter, but is there anything else I'm doing wrong? I'd really rather not brush paint the white on this model, there's an awful lot of it and the parts are in such a light gray that I don't think a primer would do anything other than adding another layer of paint.

Can anybody help?
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