Badger 350

I suppose thats the best advice, just experment and find out what works best for you. Thanks for your helpful information!

Now, where was I...

Ehm: no experience with any Badgeer paint series or what so ever. You'll just have to fnd out what kind of paint it is, to make sre you'll use the right cleaner/solvent.

It is said that -especially with higher pressurized airbrushing - there might be moist in the airbrush that needs to be removed with a watertrap. I use the simple Revell (low pressure) compressor, so moist has never been a problem.

I reccon that acryllics will have the least problems with water/moist. Enamels however will react less well with water. It will form drops, and effect you paintjob for the worse. I'd say, try it, and find out if enamels suffer from it

Thanks everyone for all of your input! I hope to be airbrushing this weekend. One other thing, I took advantage of a free paint offer that badger had with my brush, has anyone had experience with the paint? It says it's ready to go...so no thinning, it seems about the consistancty of water. One other thing...if I plan on using acrlycs do I have to worry about an in-line water trap? Thanks again

Concerning the cans: haven't got a clue; I haven't used them ever. Try www.revell.de to see if it really are CO2 cans.
It was presented as a low-budget option, but has it's disadvantages:
1. on the long run - if this is your true hobby - it is more expensive having to replace the cans;
2. Pressure drops as the can gets empty. This could affect you airbrush results significantly. Probably not for the better...

So - if you're not low on cash, and you're in for the long run - I'd say: buy a compressor instead of the cans

Cleaning? Every time disassemble the airbrush completely and clean every part. You won't like it in the beginning, but on the long run (again) it's better. Cleaning is best done right away, and not just once a month (or whatever). Spraying some cleaningfluid simply isn't enought. But hey, you've got the Badger 350, so that's a peace of cake! Do it a few times per week and you'll find out it doesn't take too long. What i wrote before: including spraying and cleaning; all can be done within 10 minutes for simple paintwork).

I use Q-tips and toiletpaper curled into pointy paper thingy's to clean each and every gap with terpentine or alcohol (depending on wich paint I used). Get this right, or you'll be sorry: using terpentine with acryllics will make a mess as well as using alcohol with enamels.

Bud156: don't trust anyone who says otherwise: get yourself accustoms to a cleaning ritual!

Thanks everyone, I've thought of more questions so I'll just keep the thread going. I'm not up to speed on the lingo, but I'm pretty sure the 350 is a siphon feed. I have some jars with siphon lids, and then I have a color cup. I'm thinking if I just use the color cup, clean up is snap. But if I use the siphon jars I'm gonna have to clean the jar and lid. Using the color cup, I can just pour some thinner or other suitable cleaning agent into the cup and spray it through the brush. Is this a good way to clean a brush or do I need to take the thing apart to clean it? I was dissapointed with the manual, only 4 or so pages. My digital camera came with a 300 page book that I didnt even read and I've got the whole thing figured out. Also, as far as an air source, could I use CO2 in canasters used for paintball? I'd have to get an adaptor for the head. Is CO2 normally used? Is that whats in the "air cans"? Thanks everyone very much, with all your help I'll be a master modeler in no time.

...and that friend would be me, I reccon (RemcoGrob)

It does work fine for me.
First:
You won't be making spaghetti Axis-camouflage schemes with the 350. The spray-area is not precise enough for an optimal result. Nevertheless, give it a go, you should come quite a way.

Secondly:
I cannot adjust the pressure of my airbrush, having a 'simple' compressor from Revell. It suffices though. For now I have no urge or need to buy a new one. Revvel and Badger 350 simply works fine.

Third - now on to the paintwork:
I spray using two different methods, both with the Badger 350:

1. Wet: from a distance: to form a 'thick' layer of base coat, made with milky paint. Normally I can make a coat just right the first time, this way. Sometimes (brushing white for instance) a second layer is needed. A third.... only when I'm out of luck (which does happen).
The nozzle is opened pretty much, letting muc paint flow through. Not that much that drops begin to flow instantly. When spraying on some paper, the color is visible instantly. be carefull not to spray too much paint, cause it will clog your panellines. This way of airbrushing is really easy and is done in 10 minutes including cleaning the airbrush. It is easy to mess up your kit as well, overspraying your kit. Don't worry though...

2. Dry: for a more accurate layer, use thicker paint. Still almost milky, but just a little thicker (normally with enamels: over 50% paint; less then 50% thinner, try 25-75). Now only open the nozzle a little bit, making much air flow through, with hardly any paint. Trying this on some paper, it takes a while (seconds) spraying the same spot before you see the paint. It will take some adjusting before you've got it all right and can get started on your model. Now, you can spray from really up close. The paint should dry really fast, so you won't blast the paint of. Too much paint (and thinner) will get rid of the previous paintlayer, like a high pressure garden hose. "and you don't want that!" (Snap?)

This second method makes a better coat. Then again, it will take some more of your time. And sometimes - or mostly - you don't need this amount of accuracy.

Best of luck Bud,

For a peek on my spraybooth (and perhaps in the future a how-to on airbrushing): http://m.1asphost.com/svankreijl/svankreijl
At technique and equipment. There is a link on top of the page to Remco Grob's site as well.

First of all, I have Badger 350 and it never worked properly for me. I know that this is my own fault, a friend of mine has one as well and his results are perfect.

Secondly, I agree with olsen that you should get a good respirator, with coal filters. I also use a spray booth, this lessens the fumes in you house. You could make one yourself. Mine has a flexible hose (like a clothes dryer) that you just hang out of a window. No holes in the wall!

It is possible to thin acrylics with water but if you want them to spray properly and achieve a nice finish then get some acrylic thinner. Some people use treated pure alcohol ,available at drug stores to thin their acrylics. And never cheap out when it comes to your health !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Go to a hardware store and buy a proper resperator for spray painting ! Yes even wear it for using acrylics! Try to airbrush outside if you can. Happy painting !

Thanks guys! I read the articles and another question occured to me. It seems to me that acrylics would be better than enamels because you can thin them with tap water. With enamels you need paint thinner. Is there an advantage/disadvantage to these types? Also, if I use acrylics do I need to be as cautious with fumes and such with my airbrush? Lastly, what is recomended for ventilation. I cant get an exhaust box because I rent and cant be drillin' holes in the wall. Can I use some kind of dust mask or disposible HEPA mask? You guys are really helpful and I appreciate it. I hope I can return the favor to new comers when I am an experienced modeler. Thanks again

I got a 350 as my first airbrush years ago, and even though I don't use it much anymore its one of my favorite airbrushes I've because it is easy to clean and can lay down a superb paint job.
To get a nice atomization of fine spray I worked out a little trick, thin the paint quite thin aprox[75% thinner & 25%paint] then ahve your air up quite high between 20-30 PSI then open the tip very slightly and this should allow you to get very thin spray patterns and a nice tight spray line.

Hope this helps and enjoy your airbrush because it is truely a nice one!!

hey Mike! sorry I thought I had replied to this but I guess not...

here are a couple of articles written or compiled by a member here:

How much pressure is enough?

http://www.craigcentral.com/models/pressure.asp

How much should I thin?

http://www.craigcentral.com/models/thinning.asp

hope this might help some...

Thanks, that helps a lot!

Congrats on the purchase. I had a very cheap no-name, Chinese made imitation of the 350 and aside from a sticky trigger, it worked pretty well. I do agree that you should find it to be a fine beginner's brush. Depending on the types of models that you build, you may that its capabilities meet all your needs, so it may well be a fine brush, period.

How much thinner is always difficult question, because even within the same brand of model paint, there can be a lot of thickness variation from the bottle. I just thin each batch until it seems right, rather than simply using a set thinner-paint ratio. The oft quoted rule of thumb is that it should be the thickness of milk. After a while you'll get the hang of it. When learning, my tendency was to underthin the paint enough. For me, I prefer that if I miss the mark on the ideal thinner-paint ratio, that I add extra thinner rather than not enough.

There are no hard and fast rules about air-pressure. I think 15 PIS is a good place to start. More air-pressure might give you better paint atomization, at the sacrifice of control. Less might give you a bit better control, but not as fine atomization, although if you use too little air pressure, the paint wont siphon out of the jar. Again, you'll develop a feel for what works best.

Andy