SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Using Micro Mask For Masking Camouflage

3511 views
5 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 6:54 AM
hey, like maddafinga, im just guessing, but im sure that it has something to do with the paints being acrylic, coz i read that MOST (i know theres one brand that doesnt, humbrol maybe? not sure tho....) will attack acryl paints coz of the chemies used to make em...

fyi, silly putty comes in many diff shapes n sizes, here in oz its called blu tack, and i have heard many diff names for it on here.... go check out a newsagency or a stationary styore for stuff used to put posters up on the wall....its a dough like substance that is kinda sticky.., i think that will be the same thing that i beam and ur mate are talking bout
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Wednesday, April 13, 2005 6:51 AM
At least one of the liquid mask products states on the bottle that it should not be used with acrylics. I think it's Micro Mask but I could be mistaken. Check the label on your bottle.

If you are going to mask acrylics in any way you will be much safer if you put down a coat of enamel or laquer primer first. Acrylics do not adhere to plastic in the same way that enamels and laquers do and they are easily pulled up by masking tape.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: Lancaster, South Carolina
Posted by Devil Dawg on Tuesday, April 12, 2005 11:41 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by I-beam

Did you use primer Devil Dawg? If you did then that Micro Mask stuff is just too sticky. I'm gonna use play dough for camo. You get good lines and it hardly sticks at all. Can you just touch up the peeled areas or will it require a repaint?


I never thought of using Play-Doh. A friend of mine (who is an armor builder) suggested using Silly Putty, but I couldn't find any. I will have to strip all of the paint off to repaint, though. Oh well. You don't learn if you don't try. This is a great kit, by the way. I like building Tamiya armor (this is my second-ever armor build!!).

Devil Dawg

On The Bench: Tamiya 1/32nd Mitsubishi A6M5 Model 52 Zeke For Japanese Group Build

Build one at a time? Hah! That'll be the day!!

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 12, 2005 11:01 PM
Did you use primer Devil Dawg? If you did then that Micro Mask stuff is just too sticky. I'm gonna use play dough for camo. You get good lines and it hardly sticks at all. Can you just touch up the peeled areas or will it require a repaint?
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
Posted by maddafinga on Tuesday, April 12, 2005 9:32 PM
I'd bet that is has to do with the paint being acrylic, but that's just as guess on my part as I've not used this stuff. I don't much use acrylic as a base because it pulls up some on me.
Madda Trifles make perfection, but perfection is no trifle. -- Leonardo Da Vinci Tact is for those who lack the wit for sarcasm.--maddafinga
  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: Lancaster, South Carolina
Using Micro Mask For Masking Camouflage
Posted by Devil Dawg on Tuesday, April 12, 2005 8:52 PM
I'm building the Tamiya M2A2 Bradley ODS, and have gotten to the point of absolutely needing to paint it (NATO camouflage, using Tamiya Acrylic Paints) before I can go any farther. I've been hearing and reading about Micro Mask, so I decided to give it a try. But, I first tried it on an old Monogram AV-8B that I built just for paint practice. This plane has no paint on it. I applied some Micro Mask to selected spots on a horizontal stabilizer, let it dry for a day, then applied some paint. I let that dry for a day, then removed the Micro Mask. I was extremely pleased!! Nice, sharp demarcation lines where the masking was. So, I painted the Bradley overall NATO Green (3 coats), let that dry for a few days, then masked certain areas according the Tamiya painting guide in the instructions, let the masking dry for a day, applied the NATO Brown paint, let it dry for two days, then masked again, let the masking dry for a day, then applied NATO Black (which looks like a very dark green to me, by the way). I let that dry for a while, and then decided to peel off all of the masking. Much to my dismay, some of the NATO Green (first color applied) is coming off with the masking, along with some of the NATO Brown. Is using Micro Mask on flat paint the wrong thing to do? Or, does it have to do with the paint being acrylic? When I used it on the Harrier with no paint, it worked just fine. Maybe this stuff should be used for canopies only, or areas where there is no paint?

Devil Dawg

On The Bench: Tamiya 1/32nd Mitsubishi A6M5 Model 52 Zeke For Japanese Group Build

Build one at a time? Hah! That'll be the day!!

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.