Help - Acrylics or Enamels ???

http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=43848

Just to add to all the other great advise here is that Tamiya thinner has a retarder mixed in, which I find to substantially improve acrylic drying on the AB tip. You can always buy your own acrylic retarder at an art store.

I use tamiya acrylics and model master enamels primarily and find when completing projects each offers their own best qualities to the task. In using both you have more versitiliy and will get a bigger variety of finishes and looks. You will also find it easier to match colors.

I wouldn't expect you could use exclusively one or the other and get similar results. I prefer using acrylics for their ease of use but an acrylic finish is easier to scratch or scuff if not careful...Allow two days drying time if unsure and use more than one coat for a more lasting finish.

Tamiya isn't the only acrylic line of course. I know many people prefer gunze sangyo or pollyscale. I wouldn't use model master acrylics though. They're not as good as their enamels or the other acrylics mentioned according to reviews.

Your acrylics won't dry in your airbrush if you clean right after use, thin properly, and adjust your airbrush presure down. This will assure the paint won't dry before it hits the model. When spraying acrylics, you should notice the paint still wet as it goes on. If it already appears dry, you'll need more thinner or to turn down the pressure. If you're using a moisture trap and don't have an air regulator you can just release the valve a bit.

Thin with the recommended thinner for the most consistent results and you may clean with hot water to save money.. for more stubborn paint, like white use the thinner to clean your brush.

Hope this helps,
Doug

I have personally found that Enamels seem to spray better. I have a Paasche VSR 90 airbrush, and I dont get the clogging when working on large projects. I always ALWAYS get clogging problems when painting large areas. They are great for small work, but I also like the ability to drybrush the Enamels, so......

I use both depending on the size and application.

Ric

You can use water to clean up but don't use it to thin acrylics. Your much better off using an approprriate thinner ( or distilled alcohol as someone above metioned _much cheaper in the long run ), you'll get a much nicer finish. !! I use Tamiya and gunze acrylics and thin both of them with Tamiya acrylic thinner. Of course, NEVER use enamel thinner to thin acrylics !!!........hope this helps .................Peter.

Indeed, it's a game of trial and error if you wish. Acrylics and the gunze range which is water soluble, it's even better, easy to clean and to spray. obviously, thin paint and pressure are important, but overall, like some other guys I only use enamels for metal finishes. I also use tamiya acrylics, and to clean my AB I use alcohol and then I spary a couple of cups (gravity) of the Tamiya acrylic thinner which has some soapy consistency which I think is a detergent to clean the airbrush and keep all the passages free from cloggings and clots. Also with acrylics, less harmful and flammable vapours...

Like you am a bit new - never had a problem with acrylics and the Aztec - so long as you keep things clean - and is this respect water seems fine - occasionally I will blow a little cellulose thinners through just to keep it pristine. Personally I think the key lies in getting the right mix and to some extent that is a "knack".

Thank you very much everyone for the responses. I am still trying to debate whether or not to switch. It just seems easier to get the Acrylics. Even if it takes a day or two to fully cure that isnt too bad. Plus it wont take nearly as long to clean the gun after spraying as it does with enamels, and the smell, etc.

While on this topic does anyone know where a good place online would be to purchase paint. I noticed while at the hobby store a 1/2 oz bottle sells for about $2.50 - 2.65. The best place that I have found paint on line is I believe at http://www.hobbylinc.com . These run about $2.15 for a 1/2 oz bottle.

Also being a noob with acrylics. What should I use to clean and thin the paint. Is water ok, rubbing alcohol, or should I buy the special Testors Airbrush thinner ? Does it matter ? Or is there another brand that someone could recommend.

I just wanted to also say thank you for so many responses, and also for everyone taking the time to help me.

Like Embark, I use acrylics and enamels. In my case, I try to use acrylic if possible. Enamels only for metallic finishes. Also to help prevent lifting of acrylic give it a good primer coat. I use the Tamiya rattle can primer in light misting coats. Gives the acrylic something to grab on to. Even still, peel that low-tack tape off slow

I use both acrylics and enamels. Acrylics are very nice becuase of the easy clean up and they are less toxic than their enamel counterparts. Enamels are the only way to go for some finishes though. I use them for gunmetal and other metal type finishes, acrylic doesnt give me the right finish in those.

I have never had a clogging problem with acrylics in my paasche vl before and the drying times are about the same as enamel.

I've found acrylics to be a bit more tricky to work with. I'll use them for single colors but I use MM enamels for the multiy colored camo scheme.s. I use a Passhe single action airbrush and it too clogs. I keep a cotton swab handy with some window cleaner and dab the tip clean. I've not heard about drying times of 90 hours more like 24/48 to fully cure. Try doing some tests on scrap plastic or old discarded models. Spray the color wait a day or two then lay some masking tape down and pull it back and see if it lifts off. I'd recommend using low tack masking tape. I use mostly Tamyia's yellow tape. Practice, practice, practice till you get it right.

Regards
Neil

I use acrylics most of the time. They do tend to dry in the airbrush if they are not thinned enough. If you thin the paint with distilled water or alcohol, it usually isn't a problem. Acrylics dry "to the touch" within minutes, but take about a day to "cure". Lower tack masking tape (like Tamiya) usually prevents alot of the pealing issues. Hope that helps. Frank

I'm certainly no expert, but I have heard acrylics offer all the same benefits of enamels, but without the toxicity. I'm not sure about drying times, though.

Well all I know is that the first time I airbrushed with acrylics is that it didn't take 90+ hours to dry only about 24 hours give or take a little.