Sotar Troubles

It would be interesting in knowing what the pigment size is for enamel/acrylic vs the inks.

One thing to consider which is the same for photographic printing is this. There are two types of colors, pigmented and dyes. Each have there place in printing and longevity. Each will only adhere to certain surfaces.

Enamels/acrylics are certainly pigment based whereas inks are dye based (basically a liquid suspension say like water and food coloring. Whereas, pigments relay on a substance with size to provide the color.) So, the dyes will flow better than the pigments unless the pigment particle size is really fine.

We use pigment based inks in printers designed for dyes only with great results. Of course the pigments are refined in such a way to be compatable with the print head nozzles.

So, if you get the right enamel/acrylic you should be fine.

Nah, its a user error.

I am just not used to it yet... but let me tell you, when I get the mixture correct. Wowzers.. it works like a champ.

QUOTE: Originally posted by RonUSMC Yeah, I have the exact same problem with the exact same paints with the exact same airbrush... makes me mad!

Why should it make you mad? You bought the wrong airbrush for the wrong job. Model paints have too thick of pigments for this airbrush...period!

I emailed a friend of mine who has been in the airbrushing industry since 1967 and has used the Sotar 20/20 quite a bit. In fact I think he helped in the design of it.
I told him about the trouble you guys are having and asked for his opinion.
Here is what he said:

"The Sotar 2020 is an iluustrator's airbrush the same as a Paasche AB Turbo or a Custom Micron. It isn't as finicky as either of the others in many ways, but it certainly is not designed for model painting. Airbrushes of this type are designed with small orifices, and very fine low pressure air characteristics. They are meant to shoot only inks, dyes, and illustration paints that have very very fine pigments and a very thin suspension fluid. The pigments in model paints and t-shirt paints are like boulders by comparison to pebbles in illustration paints. Thinning such paints will not help, the pigments are too large, and they are solid particles. These guys are using the Sotar for the wrong job, period. There's nothing wrong with the brush, it just wasn't designed for such work."

That is your problem.

Mike

QUOTE: Originally posted by merlin V1650 Mike I really enjoyed talking with him.He took a lot more time with me than I had expected. You can tell he really enjoys his business and knows his stuff.

Merlin,

He sure does! His dad owned the shop before and he grew up around all of it so it is a part of him. Too bad there aren't more guys out there like Dave. You are in Maine huh? You are right my friend that would be more like a 6 day drive for you.

Take care

Mike

Yeah, I have the exact same problem with the exact same paints with the exact same airbrush... makes me mad!

Mike

I really enjoyed talking with him.He took a lot more time with me than I had expected. You can tell he really enjoys his business and knows his stuff.

I'd like to see his store too, but I'm afraid it would be a bit more than a 6 hour drive for me.............I'm in Maine!

Merlin

Merlin,

It's hard to believe Dave is only 26 or so years old.

He is considered one of the world's leading authorities on airbrushes and compressors and will only sell you what he thinks you need. It's been several years since I visited him so I think a road trip is in order sometime soon.
His store is awesome but It's a 6 hour drive for me.

Mike

madda

I don't know but you can call him and ask him.

His name is Dave Monnig at Coast Airbrush: (714) 635-5557

Like MikeV said, he's a nice guy and could tell you anything you need to know about it
An interesting tidbit: It costs Iwata more to manufacture the Revolution than the Eclipse even though it sells for less.

<<He said the only problem with the Revolution was that it could be more easily damaged during cleaning. (madda, just be careful!).>>

Just out of curiosity, what parts did he say that could be more easily damaged. I could understand the needle getting damaged, but I'm super careful with that ,the nozzle and tip, I'm very very careful with, the rest of the dirty parts are pretty well built in. I'd kind of like to know what to watch out for and what to be extra careful of.

madda

Plum,

No offense to you but I have to ask why you would buy a Sotar 20/20 in the first place for model building?

I asked a friend of mine who is well-known in the airbrush industry about the Sotar 20/20 for model painting and he agreed that it was overkill for models. He loves the Sotar 20/20 and I believe he was involved in the designing of it but it's purpose is for illustration airbrushing and automotive airbrushing.

Mike

I'm always careful :)

madda

Merlin,

I figured he would recommend the Eclipse, he likes Iwatas.

You will really like it I'm sure.

Mike

Hey MikeV

I did give Dave a call the other day.
You were right, he was very helpful. It looks like I'm going to go with the Iwata Eclipse BS.
He said the only problem with the Revolution was that it could be more easily damaged during cleaning. (madda, just be careful!).
Thanks for the steer and advice!

Merlin

Plum,

What Merlin said is the easiest way to do it.

You may have gotten a chunk of thick paint in there that clogged the ability of the Sotar to pick up the paint. What ratio are you mixing the paint at? The Sotar is designed for very thin mediums I believe so you may have to mix that paint and thinner to a 1:1 ratio or better.

Mike

An old pair of women's nylon panty hose works great for this purpose.
Or, you could use a pair of old woman's panty hose if you prefer.

No. I've never strained paint before. What would you use to strain paint?

Are you straining the paint before you put it in the color cup?

Mike