Anyway to SAFELY not vent outside?

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 21, 2006 5:36 PM

i've started a project for this issue....so far it seems to work just fine with NO noticable vapors

go here:

http://www.finescale.com/FSM/CS/forums/685035/ShowPost.aspx

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 21, 2006 1:50 PM

Hi rockythegoat,

I was wondering what you ended up going with to possibly not vent your spray booth? Having read over 100 threads on various suggestions for spray booths here, I like the larger size of the Pace booth (5" deeper, also the built in lights) and how it looks more enclosed than the Artograph 1530, so if I wanted to use spray paint cans, it won't end up everywhere as much.

In an aparment and with a cat running around, I also don't have as easy of a time to exhaust the fumes so I was wondering if any of you have purchased and tried the Artograph mid and polyester/charcoal filter and stuck that in the Pace Peace Keeper Deluxe? Would that work safely and what size is the filter in the Peace Keeper Deluxe?

I figure when we have a larger place, I can exhaust the fumes outside my house/work area and I like the larger size, lamps, more enclosed looking pics of the Pace. The 1530 does seem to have a more powerful fan (370 vs. 265 cfms) though.

Thanks for any thoughts on this option and all the previous suggestions from all the other forum members.

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qmiester

Member since
May 2003
From: Central USA

Posted by qmiester on Friday, July 22, 2005 7:10 PM

If you consider it a real problem, I have seen sections of tubing (4" is the smallest)which have a small fan with a non-explosive motor built into them which are used to boost the airpressure in long runs. They're set up to turn on when you turn on the blower in your spray booth. Check with someone like Granger or your local heater/air conditioner shop.

Quincy

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rockythegoat

Member since
November 2004
From: Central Illinois

Posted by rockythegoat on Friday, July 22, 2005 5:17 PM

QUOTE: Originally posted by jmorgan_11

Hi ya,

I have the same booth at home. My exhaust tube is about 20 feet long with 1 90 degree bend. I have not notice any decrease in performance since I switched from a 10 foot run to a 20 feet run.

Also, I always use a three stage respirator when spraying (even acrylics) and after spraying, I allow my booth to run for about 10 minutes to further filter any fumes in the air. I also leave the room for that 10 minutes.

You could say "I enjoy my health".

Good luck,
Jesse

Jesse: Thanks for the info. I hate to loose too much effeciency with this booth, as it really moves the air. I've had some smelly stuff spraying in there and have never had a problem with fumes in the room. It's a real nice booth. My only complaints would be, and both are minor, is the thing weighs a ton which is limiting me a bit on where I want to put it (shelf which has some weight on it now) and there is no provision for lighting.

Actually, now that I've said it, how do you handle the lighting issue? I have a swingarm lamp pointing in, but, it gets in the way and throws pretty harsh shadows.

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Ben Franklin

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 19, 2005 7:51 PM

Hi ya,

I have the same booth at home. My exhaust tube is about 20 feet long with 1 90 degree bend. I have not notice any decrease in performance since I switched from a 10 foot run to a 20 feet run.

Also, I always use a three stage respirator when spraying (even acrylics) and after spraying, I allow my booth to run for about 10 minutes to further filter any fumes in the air. I also leave the room for that 10 minutes.

You could say "I enjoy my health".

Good luck,
Jesse

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rockythegoat

Member since
November 2004
From: Central Illinois

Posted by rockythegoat on Monday, July 18, 2005 5:57 PM

Here is the answer to the same question from Paasche, the maker of my paint booth. Just a little FYI to all:

"That is a long way to run the duct with 3 turns. If you only had 1 turn it would most likely be fine but the 3 turns may add to much resistance. It won't hurt to set it up and compare the air flow before and after hooking up the duct."

I think a "Pat-On-The-Back" to Paasche for getting back so quick is in order.

Yardbird: I agree with your assessment. I've never been a fan of the venting into the room thing. Guess that's why I went through the hassle of installing ductwork for my kitchen stove hood when we remodeled. That was a fun job... Dead [xx(]

Guess I'll live where the booth is now, see what I can do there to steal some more room.

Thanks all for your comments.

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Ben Franklin

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yardbird78

Member since
January 2003
From: 40 klicks east of the Gateway

Posted by yardbird78 on Saturday, July 16, 2005 2:35 AM

Make your decision based on the most important factor. YOUR HEALTH ! The fumes from those solvents is just too potent to take a chance on doing serious damage to your lungs. Even acrylics have some chemicals in them that are not very condusive to good health.

Darwin, O.F. Alien [alien]

,,

The B-52 and me, we have grown old, gray and overweight together.

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rockythegoat

Member since
November 2004
From: Central Illinois

Posted by rockythegoat on Friday, July 15, 2005 6:14 PM

My primary paints are Badger ModelFlex and Future overcoat. BUT, maybe 15% of my painting uses rattle cans, (Testors MM and hardware store stuff) for some things (primer coats, special colors, etc). So, I do have to worry about the solvent fumes getting into the room air.

I will try that guy's site and see what is says.

I've sent an inquiry off to Paasche to see what they say, both for room venting and the 17 foot run using the HSSB Spray Booth. (What I have.) I'll post their response here when and if I get it.

Thanks!

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Ben Franklin

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MikeV

Member since
April 2003
From: Hayward, CA

Posted by MikeV on Friday, July 15, 2005 5:46 PM

You never said what paints you are using?

Mike

“Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon

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ckfredrickson

Member since
April 2003
From: Halfway back to where I started

Posted by ckfredrickson on Friday, July 15, 2005 5:04 PM

You'll definately want to go with the smooth duct, which will probably be cheaper than the filters (which will need to be replaced). The concern is going to be whether or not your fan/motor is going to be powerful enough to overcome the resistance in the pipe and push enough air through.

I've referred people to this site a few times before:
http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/tutorial.asp?TutorialID=23&CurPage=1

I haven't checked the accuracy of his numbers, but I believe his approach is correct.

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rockythegoat

Member since
November 2004
From: Central Illinois

Posted by rockythegoat on Friday, July 15, 2005 2:35 PM

ck: thanks for the reply and the supplier info.

any particular thoughts on plan B, running 4 inch ducts 17 ft with 3 90's? it would likely make sense to use smooth duct as opposed to flex pipe, as its more "airflow" friendly.

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Ben Franklin

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ckfredrickson

Member since
April 2003
From: Halfway back to where I started

Posted by ckfredrickson on Friday, July 15, 2005 12:49 PM

Respirator filters are going to be too small unless you somehow partially disassemble them... the small ports on the back are going to be too small to let the required amount of air through.

I would recommend trying to pick up middle/charcoal filter package for an Artograph spray system, and then trying to adapt that:

http://www.dixieart.com/Artograph_Spray_Systems.html

The filters come in packs of 4; item 225-317 will be 15"x20"; 22 225347 will be 15"x30"

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rockythegoat

Member since
November 2004
From: Central Illinois

Anyway to SAFELY not vent outside?

Posted by rockythegoat on Friday, July 15, 2005 10:41 AM

I have a booth (Paasche) that is vented outside. Would like to rearrange my hobby room, which would move the booth too far away for outside venting. (Would be about a 17 foot run, with 3- 90 degree elbows).

Any way to build/cobble together a vent/filter box that I could attach to the booth exhaust? Something similar to the style of stove vents that exhaust inside the house via a charcoal filter. I normally use acrylics, but, do use solvent based stuff now and then.

I'ma thinkin', exhausting into a metal box, that has a furnace-type pre-filter, which leads to the final filters which would be face respirator type organic filters installed backwards. (The side which would normally point towards your face, will be exposed to the room. The normal "outside" of the filter, would face inside the box so the air is filtered.)

Thoughts?

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Ben Franklin

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