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Problem with my Badger 360...

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  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Friday, August 5, 2005 9:00 PM
The only non-metallic parts I see on the parts list are the trigger pad and the o-ring in the air valve. They don't show the black band on the parts list so your guess is as good as mine on that. The needle bearing is Teflon but that shouldn't be a problem.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Friday, August 5, 2005 8:16 PM
OK-- will try that...I guess the only plastic part I need to worry about is the black band near the end?
Mike
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Thursday, August 4, 2005 10:14 PM
When I get one that behaves like that I completely disassemble it and soak everything steel (no o-rings or plastic parts) in laquer thinner overnight. Next day I brush it out with pipe cleaners or something like that and let it soak a bit longer. Laquer thinner will take care of just about anything we use on models.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Thursday, August 4, 2005 10:00 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by MusicCity

Unscrew the valve from the airbrush body (you may have to use pliers to get it loose) and screw it into your airhose. The top of the valve is a cone-shaped piece of brass. Push it down with your finger and see if you get air. If so something is plugged inside the airbrush itself since you have indicated that the hose and airsource are OK.

The valve has five pieces to it. It's easy to disassemble but it's also easy to lose the pieces so be careful.

Hold the valve assembly with a pair of pliers on the knurled ring around the outside of the body. Look on the bottom (the part that screws into the air hose) and you'll see a hole. That hole is shaped to fit an Allen wrench (not sure what size though). Use an Allen wrench of the appropriate size to unscrew the bottom cap. Inside there is just a brass plunger with an o-ring around it and a spring. Clean everything up (I use laquer thinner on everything except the o-ring), put a little airbrush lube or Vaseline on the o-ring, and reassemble and it should be good as new.


Well-- I did as you said and when I pushed down as the cone shaped piece, air did come through-- so I guess it's something in the body. I did a quick swipe through with a microbrush and got out a flake of dried paint...figured that was it- put everything back together and I am still in the same boat-- so apparently something is still stuck in there....going to have to go back when I am not so tired and try it again...
Mike
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Thursday, August 4, 2005 9:28 PM
Thanks guys...

Scott-- I will try your advice tonight and see what happens...
Mike
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 4, 2005 10:10 AM
I second what Scott says. If you soaked the whole airbrush prior to storage, you may have a swollen O-ring that could possibly need replacing. One other thing to check is that if you do have paint seepage in the body, your teflon needle seal may need replacing. Good luck!

E
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Thursday, August 4, 2005 5:39 AM
Paint occasionally does manage to get down in those valves, but you can usually feel it by the trigger being sticky when you push it down. They are simple little mechanical valves, and usually if the trigger does move down when you push it air will flow. But, stranger things have happened ...

Unscrew the valve from the airbrush body (you may have to use pliers to get it loose) and screw it into your airhose. The top of the valve is a cone-shaped piece of brass. Push it down with your finger and see if you get air. If so something is plugged inside the airbrush itself since you have indicated that the hose and airsource are OK.

The valve has five pieces to it. It's easy to disassemble but it's also easy to lose the pieces so be careful.

Hold the valve assembly with a pair of pliers on the knurled ring around the outside of the body. Look on the bottom (the part that screws into the air hose) and you'll see a hole. That hole is shaped to fit an Allen wrench (not sure what size though). Use an Allen wrench of the appropriate size to unscrew the bottom cap. Inside there is just a brass plunger with an o-ring around it and a spring. Clean everything up (I use laquer thinner on everything except the o-ring), put a little airbrush lube or Vaseline on the o-ring, and reassemble and it should be good as new.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Thursday, August 4, 2005 12:26 AM
Ain't no fury like an airbrush scorned, my friend.

I would try dinner and flowers, but I think you're going to have to take 'er apart.

So long folks!

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Problem with my Badger 360...
Posted by Jeeves on Wednesday, August 3, 2005 10:10 PM
I must admit it's probably feeling a little scorned ever since I bought my 100LG-- but I had something really small to paint and decided to pull her out of the box. I hooked it up and added my paint to the small cup-- turned up the compressor- depressed the trigger--and nothing. I unhooked and checked everything...even hooked up the 100-- which works fine-- so there appears to be something clogging the air entry to the brush.

I can't imagine any paint being caught in there as it's behind everything....but am unsure. Short of taking apart the bottom side where the valve is which seems a bit complicated....is there an easier way to fix things?
Mike
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