Why me?????

Rebel get the double action-also your paint may be too 'rich'. Another thing thing-strip the AB down and clean it throughly. Also check your air supply,

Yeah i think you need to thin your paint a little more.

well, thats what i was thinking, but wouldn't it just continue to spider?

I'll give it a try for sure and let you know what happens.
thanks

I would try the double action as well.
I just started using my new Badger 155, and it's awesome. With no pior Airbrushing experinece, I've been getting great results.

Double action or single action doesn't matter. Neither one works if its not cleaned properly. I've been using my paasche H for years with satisfactory results.

Anyway, I have encountered a situation like you described John and I discovered that it was caused by old paint that wouldn't thin properly. The "clumps" in the paint would clog it up, I'd blow it out and get it working again only to have it clog up and then occasionaly blow a chunk just like you described all over the model.

I am not impressed with Tamiya paints either. You have to use their thinner with their paints because of the chemicals they use. Water or alcohol won't do. If you are trying to thin the paint or if its old and has dried bits in it that is most likely the problem.

While we are on the subject, water doesn't clean the Tamiya paints out of my airbrush very well. Does anyone know if Alcohol works better or windex or something? I've always used MM acrylics up till now but i recently moved and Tamiya is the only acrylic available at the new LHS.

1) You are using acrylic (doesn't matter what brand). Acrylics dry very, very fast and you are seeing evidence of this at the tip. Either get some acrylic retarder (available at most art supply stores) or use Tamiya thinner which already contains some retarder. This will dramatically slow down the paint drying time and help (not eliminate but help) the problem.

2) Each time you sit your airbrush down clean the tip. I keep a Q-Tip moistened with thinner and clean my tip each and every time I sit the airbrush down.

3) Slightly thinner paint and slightly lower pressure. This will allow you to open the needle a little bit farther for the same volume of paint flow which, in turn, will make the opening a little bit larger for the paint to flow through.

4) If #3 doesn't help leave the paint slightly thinner (your paint is too thick) and try a little bit higher pressure.

QUOTE: While we are on the subject, water doesn't clean the Tamiya paints out of my airbrush very well. Does anyone know if Alcohol works better or windex or something?

I normally use MikeV's magic mixture of 1 part Simple Green, 1 part Windex, 2 parts distilled water and it works quite well. Windex alone will work, laquer thinner will get ANY kind of acrylic out. After using Windex I usually flush my brush thoroughly with plain water because the ammonia can cause some metals to darken over time.

Ok, I'll have to get some tamiya thinner too. (darn) I have been using windex to thin it out, must be the problem.
Scott, I'll use the methods u describe.

Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!

QUOTE: Originally posted by razordws I am not impressed with Tamiya paints either. You have to use their thinner with their paints because of the chemicals they use. Water or alcohol won't do. If you are trying to thin the paint or if its old and has dried bits in it that is most likely the problem.

I use Tamiya for all my builds and thin it out with 50% water and they work fine, I also use water to clean my AB.

BTW-can you say 'suck'. Because acrylics suck! Get on the oil bandwagon.

QUOTE: Originally posted by rebelreenactor Ok, I'll have to get some tamiya thinner too. (darn) I have been using windex to thin it out, must be the problem. Scott, I'll use the methods u describe. Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!

Windex?!? Don't people use this to get the paint out of their AB? If this is what it is used for than I would say that is defiantly your problem.

I use Tamiya thinner to thin, windex to clean... I know some here use alcohol and water with success in thinning Tamiya, but I always seem to get better results with thier brand thinner. Make sure you buy the big 750ml bottle. It is only like $8.00 and lasts for many models, whereas their 30ml bottle costs $4.50 and lasts maybe one...

good luck!

I've been using water to thin the Tamiya paints. No problems so far.
Depending on what I'm doign I go bewtween acrylics and oilbased, but really like the acrylics ease of use.
I haven't had any cloggin at all yet. When I clean it, I'll flush it throug with watre first, as well as backwash it. Then I use windex. Then water again. Backwashing every step.
Then I take off the tip and whipe the needle down.

I use Tamiya and Gunze acrylics exclusively and have no issues. The Paasche H in my opinion is a finicky air brush due to its tip design. I have since switched to the Badger 360 and I can't tell you how much of a difference it has made for me.

I use 70% Isopropyl alchohol with a drop of dish detergent mixed in, This replicates the Tamiya thinner formula, and I think the results speak for themselves;



My advice; Take the Paasche to the swap meet, and invest in a double actio Badger or Iwata product.

Regards,

Steve

QUOTE: BTW-can you say 'suck'. Because acrylics suck! Get on the oil bandwagon.

Hehe...to each his own I suppose. Acrylics have an advantage of faster drying times and dont smell as foul. For Tamiya I have used their thinner and water to thin while airbrushing with no problems. I only use windex for cleaning and never thought to use it as a thinner, so that might be the problem.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Henchman I would try the double action as well. I just started using my new Badger 155, and it's awesome. With no pior Airbrushing experinece, I've been getting great results.

Same here, Badger 155 Anthem, kit 9 (deluxe)

Badgers 100LG is a very good airbrush!

My first ab was the Paasche H with a medium (#3) and large (#5) tip. I've only used enamel in it. The best performace was ratio of 2 paint : 1 thinner or even 3 paint : 1 thinner. The lowest pressure I can take it to was 35 psi but 40 psi seems to be best. I also used the color cup as opposed to the bottle and point down so much that it was basically a gravity feed. Only when I upgraded to Badger 100G with a fine tip was I able to thin to 1:1 ratio and crank pressure to 12 psi for mottling action.

Here's my best attempt at mottle with the Paasche in 1/32 scale...

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b91/dude_109/small_IMG_7222.jpg

I thin Tamiya similarly like crocket does, only I use a 50/50 mix of distilled water and 70% alcohol with dish soap added in. The dish soap acts as a retarder, reduces surface tention in the airbrush and greatly improves brush painting application. To clean my airbrsuh, I simply pour Windex in the color cup of my Iwata and swipe a Q-tip around, and spray it out. I repeat this until completely clean. To avoid using a oil-based primer, I thin the first color coat paint with Laquer thinner...yes you read right, laquer thinner. It thins Tamiya acrylic superbly, sprays like silk and most importatly- bonds to the styrene super strong like an automotive enamel, permitting the use of masking tapes without fear of lifting or flaking The subsequent color coats are thinned with my normal water/ alcohol mix. I never thought I'd be switching to an acrylic with any luck, but man am I sold on Tamiya! So far, the best modeling acrylic for my 1/72nd scale modern jets! Below are a list of my supplies for Tamiya acrylic:

1. Paints: Tamiya (all colors)
2. Paint references: Flyttblocksv Urban Fredrickson's color matching reference
3. Thinner: 50% alcohol + 50% Distilled water + dish soap(retarder)
4. Airbrush & Tool Cleaner: Windex
5. Special Thinner: Laquer thinner (for thinning Tamiya acrylic for super strong adhesion) primer color coat only. (2:1 mix)
6. Clear coats
(a) Gloss: Future floor finish
(b) Flat: Delta Ceramcoat, Matt interior varnish (waterbased, low odor, non-toxic)
(c) Satin: Delta Ceramcoat, satin interior varnish (waterbased, low odor, non-toxic)
7. Washes: Tamiya heavily thinned with water with dishsoap added (Sudge-wash)
8. Airbrush: Iwata Revolution HP-CR (general spraying), Iwata HP-C (detailing and camo outlining)

hey guys, I gave my airbrush a thorough cleaning and it still splattered. I will be going to the LHS to get a new bottle of dark green and some tamiya thinner. Hopefully that will fix the problem. (im thinking it must be old paint and wrong thinner)

Hey Rebel,
New paint might fix the problem. If you still have the problem here is a suggestion that cures many airbrush woes. Get some non-hardening gasket sealer at the auto parts store and put it on the threads in your nozzle pieces and around the little teflon washer. You only need a little but don't worry if you put more than you think you need. BTW: a new teflon washer or beeswax does the same thing but I prefer the gasket sealer becuase it lasts longer and is cheaper. You will need to redo it after about 10 sessions. Permatex 2A in the 1.5 oz tube is the kind I use.

I know this seems like overkill. When all the nozzle pieces are sealed properly the AB will pull a good vacumn and you won't get any spurts or spatters. Bubbling around the nozzle parts is a sign that the AB isn't pulling a good vacumn.

QUOTE: Originally posted by rebelreenactor hey guys, I gave my airbrush a thorough cleaning and it still splattered. I will be going to the LHS to get a new bottle of dark green and some tamiya thinner. Hopefully that will fix the problem. (im thinking it must be old paint and wrong thinner)

I get the same problem you have when i use acrylics that are old in the bottle. The only acryls i get consistently good resulkts with are tamiya and gunze. Needless to say I use primarily enamels. They give asmoother and better finish i think.