enamel or acrylic wash?

That choise is to you.

Acrylic washes can be easely removed, but dry fast. And easely thinned with water or Alcohol.

Enamel dries less faster. But gives a smoother finish (my opinion...). Can be thinned with White Spirit or Enamel thinners. Care should be taken when removing enamel washes, make sure you don't whipe the underlying coat out !!!

Cheers and good luck,

Jürgen

I like enamel thinned with mineral spirits over cured Future. If the Future is properly cured, 48-72 hrs to be safe, your wash will not eat through it.

As an additional idea for you, may I suggest using a chalk wash. These are really user friendly and provide great results.

Mike M

i'm in the process of getting some MMP weathering powder-- related question: any special considerations for protecting the decal (which lies on a panel line) from the (enamel)wash?

A clear gloss base, such as Future, will protect your decals. Make sure the gloss is well cured.

Mike M

To each their own, but it's acrylic washes for me. Always. I like being able to wipe excess wash off a couple of minutes after I put it on, and spray a clear coat or dull coat 15 minutes later. Plus, I like not having mineral spirit fumes everywhere. Probably 90% of what I do is acrylic. About the only thing that isn't are metallics or priming which are urually laquer and enamel respectively.

I'm one of the odd ones out.. I use artists oils for most of my washes, I use Turpenoid (synthetic, odorless turpentine) to thin it. Because it is mostly thinner when it is put on you have about 12 to 24 hours to play with it then another 12 to 24 till dried. These work well around engine areas and for panel line washes... it also works well because wround engines you can simulate oil leaks from access panels...

other than that I use acrylics on wide open areas where I don't worry about some accumulating in a crevice and drying before I have time to get it out...