New Eclipse HP-CS

So did I buy the wrong one? No one uses this airbrush?

The instructions are in Japanese so I can't help you.
Seriously though, what is it you need to know?
That, like most airbrushes, is pretty straight forward.
The knurled knob in the handle is not an adjustment, it is to release the needle without having to remove the handle.
They copied that from the T&C Vega airbrushes by the way.

Mike

What keeps me from opening the needle too far and letting out too much paint? This is my first dual action airbrush so I'm guessing the answer to that question is nothing. Can the handle be pushed up the needle with that knob thus preventing you from opening it up too much? Actually, I know it can be, but I guess that's not the intention.

Double action means you press down on the trigger for air which is either on or off. The regulator on your compressor is how you control the amount of air. Pressing or bulling back on the trigger controls the amount of paint. A little backward movement results in a little paint, full back results in a lot of paint. I assume that your Iwata does not have a preset handle which would be another way of controlling the amount of paint you are spraying. If you are not use to a double action airbrush, getting one with a preset handle might have been the way to go until your fingers are "trained." The preset hadle limits the rear travel of your trigger. If you are just getting use to your double action brush, it will seem strange at first but practice and more practice with some paint and you will soon start to love your new airbrush.

Dana, first of all I own an Iwata HP-CS and it's a brilliant airbrush and you have definitely made the right choice.

The adjustments you are talking about are done by a combination of altering the air pressure on your compressor, the thinning ratio of your paint and your trigger finger. For instance, 12 psi, highly thinned paint and a light pullback on the trigger = fine detailed painting.

As cbreeze said practise is what you need and the easiest way to do that is just fill the paint cup with water (no cleaning afterwards) and blast away at some old news papers. A double action brush sounds like a lot of work but it's not, it just takes a little adjustment.

If you want to shoot me through an email I'll send you a PDF file (in english) that shows how to care for your airbrush.

Oh and one last thing, when you are taking the nozzle, needle and head caps off the AB for maintenance, remember to draw the needle towards the front of the brush so that any paint on the needle won't go into the body. Oh and make sure you loosen needle chucking nut before removing the needle.

Happy modeling
Darren

QUOTE: Originally posted by darson Oh and one last thing, when you are taking the nozzle, needle and head caps off the AB for maintenance, remember to draw the needle towards the front of the brush so that any paint on the needle won't go into the body.

The needle bearing prevents paint from entering the airbrush body so that is not necessary.

Mike

Mike tell that to my ab, I took my needle out from the back side once and got paint in there and it took for every to get it out.

Thad

I've been taking my needle out from the back of the body and inserting it from there also.Is it easier to damage it this way ?Hey darson would you mind sending me that file ? i'll send you an email.

Hey Darson I just sent you that email !! thanks in advance, Peter.

QUOTE: Originally posted by KINGTHAD Mike tell that to my ab, I took my needle out from the back side once and got paint in there and it took for every to get it out. Thad

Was that before you sprayed lacquer thinner through it?
Don't pull the needle through the airbrush if there is still paint in the color cup of a gravity-feed airbrush as the needle is what seals the bearing.

Mike

Peter I got your email, I'll hunt down the PDF when I get home from work today.

Mike I have a question for you please. I use lacquer thinner to flush my HP-CS all the time when I use Alclad or Testors Metalizers. It has had no adverse effect that I have seen and the AB works like a dream still after two years. Am I doing something hideously wrong that I didn't know about?

Cheers
Darren

Darren,

There is nothing wrong with using lacquer thinner to clean the airbrush.
Every automotive airbrush artist I know of does so and there are no adverse affects.
Over time the needle bearing may be affected by it as it is not solvent resistant in that Iwata I believe, but you can have it replaced with a Teflon one and then you are good to go for a long, long time.

Mike

Mike, Yes there was paint in the cup (hard lesson learned). I have the same question Darren has, I have not used lacquer thinner yet because I thought it would hurt the ab.

Thad

Thad, I ditto Mike on this one. You can actually soak an airbrush in Lacquer thinner if it is EXTREMELY dirty. You just have to rememeber to remove any o-rings or non solvent resistant parts as previously stated. You especially have to be mindful of this if your brush is from the early 90's or older. I buy used "non working" brushes off of ebay. I soak them in lacquer thinner, LIGHTLY lube the innards with Needle Juice, buy a new needle, polish with Windex, and they are good as new. Actually better than new, as I test the smoothness of the action against new ones at the LHS, including the Iwata Revolution. Between talking to Badger AB Co and Scott Craig, I've gained a lot of knowledge on how to tune up an airbrush.

Thanks for the info, I will push my fears a side and give it a try

Thad