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Future coverage problems - help needed

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7 replies
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  • Member since
    September 2005
Posted by nathaniel on Friday, October 7, 2005 9:00 PM
I think i just need to get past the hang-up of actually needing to see it spray. I know where the gun's pointing. I just need to move it around and trust my equipment to be working.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Friday, October 7, 2005 8:11 PM
Marc - the stoned thing is because most people shoot it straight... after my little experiment however I won't go back! As far as seeing where it goes on I have a home made paint stand I use for that... it is a round piece of florists foam from the craft store, with sprue cut to support the tail and wings of my aircraft so it leans forward at about a 30 degree angle... with the flourescent light and the overhead lamp on you can get a good glare on the plastic and tell where and how much Future is hitting it...
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Friday, October 7, 2005 7:24 AM
Thanks all.

Tom-Why would you be stoned for suggesting an acrylic thinner for an acrylic product. Seems logical. Yes it is mostly alcohol but I wonder of there isn’t other ingredient that are beneficial to the spraying of an acrylic medium. I am going to try that for sure.

Nathaniel-The horrible beading of the Future was with about a 4 to 1 mix as a matter of fact, hence my frustration.

And you are not kidding about hard to see it go down. I must look like I am doing the twist without music to get the surface to catch a reflection just too see what I am doing.

Marc  

  • Member since
    September 2005
Posted by nathaniel on Friday, October 7, 2005 1:41 AM
The Tamiya thinner does work well. It's mostly alcohol, so 91%+ isopropyl alcohol will also get the job done. I found thinning 4:1 future to alcohol really helped as well. It took me a bit of practice to get even coats though. It's just hard when you can't see the spray easily.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Thursday, October 6, 2005 8:41 PM
I know I will probably be stoned, or at the least burnt at the stake for saying this, but I found thinning the future a bit with Tamiya acrylic thinner works WONDERS on my future finishes.,.. gone are the rouch textures, no more runs and heavy areas.. I just spray several light to med coats and it is done!

I started doing that when I was playing with using future as an undercoat for Alclad and won't go back to pure future again!

If you can't get your hands on Tamiya thinner a tiny bit of water might work (try it on a junk model or such).... I've also brushed it on like Richard with decent results...



---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Canada
Posted by RichardI on Thursday, October 6, 2005 12:08 PM
I have always found that trying to airbrush Future is just too difficult. Maybe it's my old eyes, but I have a tough time seeing where it's going and more importantly, how much is going on. I always hand brush it on. I have two really good red sable flat brushes, one about 1/8" wide and one about 1/4" wide. The future goes on beautifully right out of the bottle and I get a nice thin, even coat. I'm only stating what works for me, and I think the key is in the top quality brushes, and not putting on too much. I only ever apply one coat, BTW.

Rich Cool [8D]

On the bench: 1/48 Revell PBY Catalina 0A-10A. Next up: Moebius 1/24 Chariot from Lost in Space.

  • Member since
    February 2003
Posted by mass tactical on Thursday, October 6, 2005 10:03 AM
Try using 10-15 psi and airbrush using light dusty coats. Build up the Future using several applications. I don't believe your problem is associated with your cured base coat.

Mike
  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Future coverage problems - help needed
Posted by wing_nut on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 11:54 PM
fUsing Future has been hit or miss with me. Sometime t goes down nice and smooth but sometimes it kind of beads up. On me last build it was like water in a non-stick pan it was beading so bad. I always use MM enamels and this is on a freshly painted surface so no oils or anything like that. Am I not letting the paint cure enough? I have trued it straight form the bottle and mixing it as per Swanny’s web site and same thing both ways… but only sometimes. I tried warming it in a pan of hot water and it seemed to help. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Marc  

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