Badger 150

I don't have a 150 but I have a 100. The 150 is siphon feed and the 100 is gravity feed. They are excellent airbrushes and you would be able to get very good results with it.

I have the 150, and it's a fine airbrush. For a beginner it's fabulous. I know this for a fact, because I are one!

I actually have two of them, one with the fine needle and one with the medium. Luckily the ends are slightly different, or I would have a hard time telling them apart! I only have the second AB because a friend gave it to me.

At some point in the future I will also get a gravity feed brush as they are supposed to be a bit better for fine lines and control, or so some say. I doubt there is very much that can't be done with the 150, but I can see how a gravity feed can have finer control.

The testors blue compressor would be fine with any AB, but for the money (or not too much more) you can buy better ones. http://www.badger-airbrush.com/garagesale.htm has a very nice compressor for $99. They are not always in stock, though.

Looking at Badgers garage sale page just now, there is a pretty nice Vega 2000 double action brush on for $45! That's a pretty good price. It's basically the 150 with the cutaway handle on it. If they both the compressor and AB in stock you can be up and airbrushing for $144 plus taxes and shipping.

Talk about blue mini, I have one but it sits as my back up a/compressor only. I hate that cause the adaptor (attached to compressor) going to very very hot since you run it for a long time during brushing. The effect will throw moisture sometimes into my airbrush though I had added moisture trap & some others modification on it.
The adapter will be 3/4" standart and I think badger hose has the same thread at one point so it will be fine to attach. Consider not only initial price but the durability, quality and fun for your hobby, a long or short time. Hope that an input.

I have an Aztec 7778 and use only acrylics on N scale model railroad cars and structures. It clogged frequently and is a pain in the rear to clean.

I just purchased a Badger 150 and have a few questions. I would appreciate any and all help and answers since the instruction booklet is not what one would call extensive.

1. I have three needles and three tips. The tips are clearly marked F,M and L. The needles are not. Do I use the thinnest tipped needle with the Fine tip or the thickest with the Fine tip?

2. The "manual" states that 30 PSI is recommended. It seems that the air is literally blasting through the tip. Is the tip adjustable since it is referred to as a "regulator"? Is a lower air pressure recommended by members of this board?

3. I have a #100 strainer to strain my acrylics before putting the same into my cup. Is this enough? Too much? Or is a #80 or a #200 recommended?

Fotheringill

QUOTE: 1. I have three needles and three tips. The tips are clearly marked F,M and L. The needles are not. Do I use the thinnest tipped needle with the Fine tip or the thickest with the Fine tip?

The thickest needle goes with the large tip, and the slenderest goes with the fine tip. The body of the needles will be the same sizes, so look at the tips, obviously.

QUOTE: 2. The "manual" states that 30 PSI is recommended. It seems that the air is literally blasting through the tip. Is the tip adjustable since it is referred to as a "regulator"? Is a lower air pressure recommended by members of this board?

No, the spray regulator on the front of the airbrush is not used to regulate the airflow. That should be done before it gets to the airbrush. I personally never spray at anything near 30 psi unless it is to clean the airbrush. I run the pressure up to around 40 psi for cleaning, but for painting never more than 15 psi or so. Most of my painting is done between 10 and 12 psi.

QUOTE: 3. I have a #100 strainer to strain my acrylics before putting the same into my cup. Is this enough? Too much? Or is a #80 or a #200 recommended?

Can't help with that, I never strain acrylics or any other kind of paint.

From my experience, 30 p.s.i. is way too much. 15 p.s.i. is plenty (and even less) for properly thinned paint of any kind.
The smallest needle goes with the F tip, the largest with the L. Assemble the brush so that the needle just touches the tip. If there is air escaping without pressing the trigger, the needle needs to be adjusted until no air is escaping.
I use my wife's old nylons for paint filters so I have no clue about your last question, but someone here will chime in. Lots of good help here.

Rich

I thank you for the prompt and informative responses. I thought the thin needle went with the fine tip and that the head should be tight since if it is loosened, more paint will flow through. As to the pressure, I should not believe everything I read even if it appears in the manufacturer's literature, but then again, I thought Treasure Island was a real story until I was 23.

The screens are sold at Pearl Paints and are used for straining paints. It is a funnel with a screen attached. They are sold in the sizes indicated in my original post but I, too, have no idea the scale or reference to the numbers shown.

QUOTE: As to the pressure, I should not believe everything I read even if it appears in the manufacturer's literature, but then again, I thought Treasure Island was a real story until I was 23.

To expand on my earlier statement a bit, 30 psi is probably the correct pressure for a lot of things. The guys who paint T-shirts, for example, use quite high pressure from what I understand. I know there are some people who do paint models at pressures that high, but I'm not one of them. At 30 psi I get far too much overspray and don't have enough control over the paint flow.

Everything about airbrushing is based on personal preference. Some people like thick paint and high pressure, others like thin paint and low pressure. The key is to find something that works for you and build on that. There is a wealth of experience and advice available here, and on other forums, and if we don't always agree that doesn't make one person wight and the other wrong, it's just that each of us has a different way of doing something.

Fotheringill - take a close look at the back end of the Badger needles. They should be identified with grooves. If I remember correctly, they less grooves, the finer the needle. My memory is a little fuzzy this early in the morning, but I think it's one groove for the fine, two for the medium, and three for the large.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong..