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Painting strategies

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  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Saturday, October 15, 2005 11:12 PM
QUOTE: just make sure the respirator is rated are rated for organic vapors otherwise it's useless.

Absolutely right. Thanks for pointing that out.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 15, 2005 10:45 PM
QUOTE: 1. I live in a house with no basement so I can only paint in my own bedroom. I need to close the door to isolate the fumes Is it enough to buy a fan and paint near to the open window (2 windows)? And make myself a "spraybooth" from cardboard? I also plan to use a respirator. Afterward, I can leave both window open with the fan on. Do you think the fume might go away after a few hours?


i used to do the same thingWink [;)] but i bought myself a exhast fan after a while(got sick of waiting for the fumes to vanish) and placed it inside my cardboard box.then placed the box in front of an open window.

i've recently changed to acrylics too, i just love it. no nasty odor, i still use the respirator though.(can never be too safe). and i don't think i'll ever go back. cleanup is a flash.
Goodluck hou_ge2000! Happy modeling
  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Vancouver,Canada
Posted by clairnet_person on Saturday, October 15, 2005 10:23 PM
just make sure the respirator is rated are rated for organic vapors otherwise it's useless.
Current builds: Monogram P-40B Revell F-15E
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Saturday, October 15, 2005 4:05 PM
QUOTE:
1. I live in a house with no basement so I can only paint in my own bedroom. I need to close the door to isolate the fumes Is it enough to buy a fan and paint near to the open window (2 windows)? And make myself a "spraybooth" from cardboard? I also plan to use a respirator. Afterward, I can leave both window open with the fan on. Do you think the fume might go away after a few hours?

That should be sufficient. An airbrush does not have a lot of volume, about 1/4 cubic foot per minute of air flow roughly, and the paint vapors will be dissipating even while you are painting. The vapors should be barely noticeable after 30 minutes or so.

QUOTE:
2. I have a Badger 360 airbrush and I plan to paint enamel. What's the most efficient way to clean it? What do I do with the used dirty thinners?

There are two ways to clean it; 1) Blow thinner through it, 2) Completely disassemble and clean with thinner. #1 is much easir and quicker, #2 causes fewer vapors. It's pretty much your choice as to which you use, but those are the only real ways to do it.

QUOTE: 3. Since each color change is a hassel, is there a strategy to use to cut down on the number of color changes? Maybe paint all the parts with the same color at once?

That's what I do. I build in sections, cockpit, wings, etc. and try and spray all parts of a particular color at the same time. It cuts down on paint waste and saves a lot of time. It never works out exactly, there will always be some parts you miss, but that's a very good way to go about it.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    November 2005
Painting strategies
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 15, 2005 2:55 PM
A few questions

1. I live in a house with no basement so I can only paint in my own bedroom. I need to close the door to isolate the fumes Is it enough to buy a fan and paint near to the open window (2 windows)? And make myself a "spraybooth" from cardboard? I also plan to use a respirator. Afterward, I can leave both window open with the fan on. Do you think the fume might go away after a few hours?

2. I have a Badger 360 airbrush and I plan to paint enamel. What's the most efficient way to clean it? What do I do with the used dirty thinners?

3. Since each color change is a hassel, is there a strategy to use to cut down on the number of color changes? Maybe paint all the parts with the same color at once?

Thanks
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